2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech General discussion of 2.9L and 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger engines.

Blowing fuse #2

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Old Dec 24, 2022
  #1  
omgitzjojo's Avatar
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From: dunnellon,florida
Blowing fuse #2

I have a 2002 ranger edge 3.0 auto trans 4x2 with 240k miles. Recently fuse #2 keeps blowing when put in reverse. I already tried taping up the o\d cancel switch wire which did not work. I even removed the wire completely. The only thing left is the wiring from the dts sensor on the transmission to the reverse lights. I didn't see any chaffing when looking at the reverse lights. I need help. It controls the blower motor reverse lights and the air bag light comes on. Idk what to do. Maybe the dts sensor wiring is chaffed?? Idk
 
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Old Dec 24, 2022
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Most likely culprit when there are any tail light issues are DIY trailer light connector wiring, wires at left rear can get butchered
In the case of Reverse lights, the recent advent of Backup Cameras added a new DIY butchering of these wires to activate the camera, lol

If fuse 2 doesn't blow when you turn the key on, but does blow when you shift to Reverse, then its not any of the other devices on fuse 2
Only the TCS or Reverse light wiring could cause it
You unplugged the TCS in steering, so that not it
And since fuse doesn't blow with key on, then its not the wire to the TCS connector or to the Reverse switch on transmission

I would unplug the DTR sensor on drivers side of transmission, have a look inside for corrosion, unlikely but free to look, lol
Fuse 2 sends 12v, key on, to the DTR switch on a Purple/orange stripe wire
A black/pink stripe wire on the DTR switch will send that 12v OUT to Reverse bulbs when switch is moved to Reverse

Black/pink wire has been used for years on Ranger Reverse lights
This is most likely to be shorted to ground somewhere
Bulb connectors can also short to ground if water gets inside


 
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Old Dec 24, 2022
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The only thing I can think of is this
wire exposed in the trailer connector (very right wire). I went under the truck and didn't find anything. Also I'm pretty sure I disconnected the reverse lights before and the fuse still blew .

 
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Old Dec 24, 2022
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4 wire trailer connector doesn't have a Reverse Light wire, just Park lights and left and right turn/brake wires, and ground

What do you mean you disconnected reverse wire?
Where?
 
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Old Dec 24, 2022
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I mean while trying to diagnose the issue a couple weeks ago. I unplugged the tail light connectors to insure it wasn't the bulbs. I'm gonna un plug the transmission sensor you said and go into reverse and see if the fuse blows? If it doesn't then the problem is somewhere between the reverse lights and that sensor yes?
 
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Old Dec 24, 2022
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Yes, good plan

Its possible the DTR sensor has internal short

If you have an OHM Meter or Continuity tester
With rear taillights unplugged and DTR sensor unplugged
Test black/pink wire at either end to closest Ground, if low OHMs or "continuity" then wire is shorted to ground somewhere
If so, I would just run a new wire, versus unwrapping harness's

If no short on that wire then DTR sensor is most likely the issue
 

Last edited by RonD; Dec 24, 2022 at 03:18 PM.
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Old Dec 24, 2022
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Just unplugged the sensor. Put it in reverse a bunch of times and the fuse did not blow. So what's the plan now?
 
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Old Dec 24, 2022
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Its a roll of the dice, but you can lower the odds if you are planing to run a new wire if that's the problem

Cut the Black/pink wire(OUT to reverse bulbs) on the DTR connector, but cut it so you can either splice it back together or splice a new wire to it
Plug connector back in
Put it into reverse
If fuse blows then the DTR switch is the issue
If fuse doesn't blow then its the wire to the rear, black/pink wire has the short



 
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Old Dec 26, 2022
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Just tested it. Cut the black/pink wire on the sensor, plugged it back in put in reverse fuse does not blow. So how am I supposed to find this short to ground?
 
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Old Dec 26, 2022
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You don't
You run a new wire from DTR connector, to the black/pink wire at the rear connector where it splits to the two reverse lights
If it blows again the short is in the rear wires to bulbs

But I think you already tested for that by unplugging the rear connector, and fuse blew when in reverse
 
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Old Jan 5, 2023
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Howdy boys, I've been trailing down this frickin rabbit hole for about a week, reading every post every where from like 18 years ago...

This is the first I've heard about how to actually test out the DTR -> Back.
I was literally about to start a new post:

((( 2003 Ford Ranger, 3.0L, RWD, 130,000 miles.
What is occuring: Fuse #2 on the interior fuse panel blows every single time I put the truck into gear.
What Fuse #2 is responsible for: Daytime Running Lights (DRL), Back-up Lamps, Transmission, Passenger Air Bag Deactivation Switch, Blower Motor Relay, O/D on/off.
Things that have been attempted:
-New Blower Motor
-New Blower Motor Resistor
-Removal and inspection of tail lights
-Climate Controls removed
-OD wires REMOVED from shifter, and disconnected from the entire bunch of wires under the dash
Scenerios:
-Lights on, Lights off. Heat/Cold on, Heat/Cold off. OD wires connected, OD wires disconnected. Reverse lights attached, Reverse lights disconnected.
Noteable mentions related or not:
-After changing dash and dome lights to LED, dash flickers if dimmer switch is on high.
-Dome light sometimes works, sometimes you have to give in a fist pounding.
-Shift Indicator Assembly damaged, removed.
How is happens, let there be no mistake, this is Every Single Time:
-Turn truck on, depress brake pedal, move shifter through Reverse, Neutral, and into Drive.
BLOWN.
-Turn truck on, depress brake pedal, move shifter into Reverse.
BLOWN.
-Move shifter FAST as **** into Drive.
BLOWN.
-Move shifter ver r r y y s l o o w l y into Reverse.
BLOWN.
The second the shifter touches Reverse, you hear the fuse blow." )))

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

That being said, tomorrow morning I'm going to go give that a test. I've got plenty of wire so I hope to god that is finally the solution.
Thank you RonD for that information. I will post update with photos tomorrow.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2023
  #12  
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From: Lawrence, ks
In the meantime, Anyone wonder what they're looking for, this video isn't for the purpose of this subject, but in a way it is.

This is the part, and where the wires head out to the back. ^^

 
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Old Jan 5, 2023
  #13  
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Maybe its mechanical, the shifter tube in the column or shifter cable is pinching a wire under the dash

Yes, cab fuse 2 powers a lot of stuff
 
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Old Jan 8, 2023
  #14  
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From: Lawrence, ks
:::ATTN UPDATE:::

To everyone around the world suffering through the notorious fuse #2 fuckery, I pray for you.
4 days of replacing ****, tracing wires, totally ruining my O/D off button, etc...
I just finished changing out the Transmission Range Sensor and god damn did it feel soooooooo good firing the Ranger up, click into reverse, holy **** the heat is still blowing, the reverse lights are on, She's good to go!!!
 
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Old Jan 8, 2023
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Good work

Things are ALWAYS in the LAST place you look..........................because only a darn fool would keep looking after they found it
 
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Old Mar 7, 2024
  #16  
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From: Northglenn
Similar Issue

Hi, I'm having a similar issue with my 2003 Ranger but fuse #2 is tripping when I put it into low gear.

I have replaced the Transmission Range Sensor and that did not fix the issue.

Any thoughts on what the issue may be?
 
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Old Mar 7, 2024
  #17  
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So only when you move the shifter on the steering column down all the way fuse #2 blows?

That could be the OD button wires inside the shifter arm shorting out
The OD on/off button is called the Transmission control switch, seen in the fuse 2 diagram in Post 13

Shifter arm looks like this: https://i.ebayimg.com/thumbs/images/...C64/s-l640.jpg

It has 2 wires and a connector, one of the wires has full time 12volts from fuse #2 with key on
Remove the upper and lower clam shell from steering column
Inspect the 2 wires where they come out of the METAL shift arm, could be a bare wire shorting out
Follow that pair of wires thru the column looking for any damage and to its connector, then unplug it
Put a new fuse in and turn on the key
See if shifting to low still causes fuse to blow with wires unplug, if not then and you can't find an obvious short in the wires then may have to replace the shifter arm
 
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Old Apr 30, 2024
  #18  
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From: Modesto, CA
I'm facing the same issue. The #2 10 amp fuse popped when I replaced it and tried to get the blower motor to turn on. I didn't switch gears or anything I just turned the car on and attempted to get the blower motor to turn on by turning the climate control ***** to ac and air flow to the face vents. When I checked the fuse I found it blew the fuse. I have already replaced the blower relay, resistor, and blower motor. Any advice on what it could be if it blows the fuse by just turning the truck on?
 
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