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Easiest way is to put crank at 0 deg TDC first
Remove sensor from the top of the old synchronizer so you can see where the shaft is pointed, mark that, take a picture, whatever................
Pull synchro out, it will turn a bit as you pull it up, gears are angled
Put new synchro in same position
Lower it down, shaft will turn a bit as it goes down, all done, its timed
It may not go down all the way because of oil pump drive
Turn crank manually left and then right and back to TDC, synchro should drop into place when oil pump drive is aligned
Make sure it matches the mark or picture, if not pull it up, turn it and lower it down again
The difference you mention in the degrees is based on what tool you are using to time it from scratch, so not a fair question
You use TDC compression stroke for #1 to time cam or cam synchro
And there is a TDC exhaust stroke for #1 as well, and its the SAME mark
So TDC mark is only correct every other RPM, thats the problem with 4-stroke engines, lol, too many TDCs
One thing to know, you can be off a few degrees and computer will self time it, so you do need to get close but there is a margin of error thats allowed
The crank sensor is the main timing sensor, so the computer uses that for startup, then looks at the cam sensor to see if it is "in time" with crank sensor, this is when computer will adjust the timing of cam sensor if its not spot on, so it sets cam sensor timing +/-5 deg and uses that from then on
It does this adjustment based on "power added" to crank, you won't feel it but computer can tell how much power is added to crank spin each time a cylinder fires, so it adjusts when it opens an injector and how much power was added until it finds the sweet spot, timing set
Easiest way is to put crank at 0 deg TDC first
Remove sensor from the top of the old synchronizer so you can see where the shaft is pointed, mark that, take a picture, whatever................
Pull synchro out, it will turn a bit as you pull it up, gears are angled
Put new synchro in same position
Lower it down, shaft will turn a bit as it goes down, all done, its timed
It may not go down all the way because of oil pump drive
Turn crank manually left and then right and back to TDC, synchro should drop into place when oil pump drive is aligned
Make sure it matches the mark or picture, if not pull it up, turn it and lower it down again
The difference you mention in the degrees is based on what tool you are using to time it from scratch, so not a fair question
You use TDC compression stroke for #1 to time cam or cam synchro
And there is a TDC exhaust stroke for #1 as well, and its the SAME mark
So TDC mark is only correct every other RPM, thats the problem with 4-stroke engines, lol, too many TDCs
One thing to know, you can be off a few degrees and computer will self time it, so you do need to get close but there is a margin of error thats allowed
The crank sensor is the main timing sensor, so the computer uses that for startup, then looks at the cam sensor to see if it is "in time" with crank sensor, this is when computer will adjust the timing of cam sensor if its not spot on, so it sets cam sensor timing +/-5 deg and uses that from then on
It does this adjustment based on "power added" to crank, you won't feel it but computer can tell how much power is added to crank spin each time a cylinder fires, so it adjusts when it opens an injector and how much power was added until it finds the sweet spot, timing set
I swapped a 94 engine into my 01, I put the synchronizer where the distributer was. Now I have to time it from scratch.
2001 also needs a Crank sensor, thats the main one, Cam sensor is only used after startup, so did you swap front covers so you can add the crank sensor?
To time the new cam sensor you need the tool that should come with a new synchro, not sure you can time it without it
You can buy it separately, but a new synchro with the tool is not a bad investment, these only last 80k miles usually, the synchro bushings fail, squeak
You need to pull spark plug in Cylinder #1 and then manually turn engine until you feel air coming out of spark plug hole(compression stroke), then keep turning crank until its at 0deg TDC mark
If this helps, I set the cam sensor while the cylinder heads were off. I too did not have a reference to start with from the removed cam sensor.
I purchased a new Motorcraft cam sensor. Using Ron's D comments,
1. Used cam sensor blue alignment tool.
2. Aligned the tone wheel to TDC with pointer on the time cover.
3. Verified #1 cylinder as at TDC, easy to do when cylinder head is removed.
4. Cam sensor tab is little off from center gap, but my understanding this is correct.