My truck is about 6 years old now (2001), and i've recently noticed that when i drive up hills or slight inclines and my RPM's are around 3k it sounds like a chain rattling in the engine area, and then stops after it gets up to speed.

Any idea what this is or how to fix it.

Thanks

 

Sounds kind of like what I experienced. Clean the MAF sensor with some MAF sensor cleaner (any auto store) and see what happens. That should fix it.

 

Pinging?

 

i want to say its your timing belt but i could be wrong mine did the same thing

 

sounds like it could be pinging to me....too much load and not enough rpm's can create pinging. What type of gas are you running?

 

if its pinging use some sea foam that stuff does wonders

 

The 3.0L has a timing chain, instead of a timing belt. From the description, it sounds like pinging (pre-ignition) to me. A dirty MAF sensor will cause this, but to verify that it is pinging, try a tank of premium gas. If you have been using a K&N air filter, there is a very good chance that you have a dirty (contaminated) MAF sensor from the dirt & oil they pass.

 

ya same thing

 

Alright,
Im at work right now, so Ill check that stuff out tonight or this weekend and see if i can clean the MAF sensor, and prob run some sea foam through the system to clean it out. Hopefully that will fix the problem.

 

I have the same extact problem. Can someone explain to me how to clean the MAF sensor. Thanks!

 

DITTO!!

 

I bought a can of CRC's MAF cleaner for about $5. I think that would be your best bet because it's actually made for MAF sensors.

 

Where did you get yours at?
$5 sounds more appealing than $20

 

The following procedure is adapted from a TRS Tech Article "Cleaning the MAF":

1. Remove the negative cable from the battery;

2. Unplug the wiring harness clip from the MAF;

3. Remove the two security star-head screws and carefully remove the sensor. You will need a security star (size T15 or T20) torx bit (or see below);

4. Take note of the two sensor filaments, they look almost like the filaments in a light bulb. Carefully spray the filaments with an O2 safe cleaner, and if available, a few careful blasts of compressed air.

5. While it is drying carefully wipe the aluminum mount surface of the MAF body if there is any dust there, but be careful not to get dust in the mount hole.

6. When the sensor is dry, re-install the sensor back in the MAF body and connect the MAF wiring harness clip. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

This what the MAF sensor looks like when you take it out (note the two filaments which you must be VERY careful with when cleaning):



As for those stupid "security star" torx screws, I took a Dremel tool and cut a slit through the head of the bolts so I could remove them with a regular screwdriver. Then I replaced the torx screws with similar-sized phillips heads screws and small lock washers. Now whenever I want access to the MAF I don't have to mess around with security star bits or anything else. I just pull out a screwdriver from my toolbox.

 

Either AutoZone or Advance Auto. I can never remember which is which.

 

alright, im going to try to explain this the best that i can.
- I see the two screw heads that your saying i need to take out. The top one is fine... but the bottom screw head has this black ??"stuff"?? on it (its like plastic), that is covering up the head?. I have no idea what that is or why it's there. But what if i unhooked the tube right after the MAF sensor and sprayed it in that way?