Hello, my name is kade and i’ve created this account because i’m at a absolute loss with this ranger. It’s a crank, no start, no misfire, no attemp to fire. jus cranks and cranks.

My buddy owns a 1992 ford ranger 3.0L V6 Auto @108k miles. He randomly went out to start his truck and it was a crank no start, I towed it to my garage and for a month now i could hear his fuel pump. going out, so i started there.
Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel injectors (all needed done) i had previously done a tune up with new plugs and wires. Still a crank no start, question distributor durability and pulled it out and it looked great (but i’m clumsy and dropped it breaking the “fork” on top) so new distributor (which is timed to BTDC on crank pulley and lined with #1 plug wire).
I have obviously done a 50/50 test which resulted to no change, pulled out a spark plug and can visually see spark and fuel on it (tricked my buddy and got a laugh out of him getting shocked the **** out of)
Was doing multiple OBD1 tests and was getting codes all over the place, pulled the ECM and found 2 capictors on the motherboard shorted and broke as well as water marks on the actual box, replaced ECM (genuine ford) still a crank no start.
Re-did testing and got a 116 (ECT code) replaced that sensor, replaced idle air control, MAF, im assuming the timing chain is good because before any of this I had taken off intake manifold and rocker covers cause he had a decent leak and also adjusted rockers and inspected pushrods, (not to familiar with pushrod motors had a buddy who knows everything to know help with that) was turning the crank ensuring proper tightening and movement and all was good.
I have 100-110PSI on compression, 37psi on the rail, can smell gas and gas burning when cranking. It has to be a sensor or something.
I don’t know what to test or check next, camshaft sensor? wouldn’t I get a code? could the ECM shorting have fried a sensor that wont throw a code? I have yet to pull a cat off and see if here’s back pressure but i don’t feel like that would cause a random and sudden no start. I am truly lost. Any help or advice would be so greatly appreciated as we both move to california for welding school in a month and this truck is supposed to make that drive and we need as much $ as possible, trying to avoid a ford tech price.

 

You pulled out "A" spark plug, but not the other 5? You still need to verify spark on the other 5.

 

Im sorry, I wasn’t clear, for compression:
cyl1 100psi
cyl2 100psi
cyl3 110psi
cyl4 105psi
cyl5100psi
cyl6 100psi

Compression is 100-110PSI across all cylinders.

For spark:
All spark plugs have been tested with a noid light, passed, i just tricked my buddy with one to shock him. Spark plugs are new and if i’m getting a circuit i expect to have spark unless the block is no longer acting as a proper ground

 

Welcome to the forum

Compression is low, 3.0l would be 150+psi, most engines would be, but would still fire with ether sprayed in if spark timing was correct
3.0l timing chain was never an issue, doesn't even have a tensioner, so most likely a testing issue

There are two #1 TDCs on any 4-stroke engine
TDC Compression stroke
TDC Exhaust stroke

So you have a 50/50 chance of getting distributor set correctly using the cranks TDC mark, also means 50/50 chance of being wrong, lol
But simple to correct this
Pull the distributor cap and note the position of the rotor, lift distributor up and rotate rotor 180deg so it's pointed in the exact opposite direction, then tighten back up, well snug as you will need to move it
Put cap on and start engine

Or rotate engine by hand until TDC mark is in place, lift cap
If rotor is pointed at #5 lift distributor and point it at #1
If its pointed at #1 lift distributor and point it at #5
1 and 5 are opposites in firing order

 

Actually ahead of you on that, initially I timed it to TDC, it sounded really shitty, although I left it there for testing purposes, doing 50/50 test, trying to find the issue, i then took it out, I flipped it 180 and same result, then i took it out, retimed to BTDC (the two marks are “tdc” and “btdc”)by hand rotating the crank each time, where it sounded like a much healthier and normal crank, but no start, not even an attempt.

my gut wants to tell me it is not an issue with the distributor as it sounds the exact same as to when i initially towed it with a crank no start, and with all the testing i’ve done with it i would’ve had a misfire or some kind sign that it’s trying to start.

Going back to the ecm, it had fried components, and i mean black parts on the motherboard and capacitors jingling around inside, could that have backfed and fried a sensor somewhere? it doesn’t have a big fuse box and this truck has a overdone amount of plug and sensors.

I can do a re-test and pull out the distributor again, but before I get out of bed lol, what other possibilities do I have? I know pulling the distributor makes everyone question the timing, i spent a whole 12 hours messing with it trying different things, same result, no change what so ever other then a worsened sound when cranking. so that brings me to say it’s something else.

 

Update: I re did the distributor timing and discovered that I had plug 1 on 2, swapped and it gave me a burble but back to a crank and no start.

 

1993 is OBD1 so has a separate spark system, computer only does fuel but needs a timing pulse from spark system to start injectors

Quick tests
CEL(check engine light) should come on with key on, it means computer has powered up, no CEL = no computer
If CEL comes on then crank the engine, CEL should go OFF as soon as engine is turning, that means computer is getting a valid timing pulse from TFI Module
If CEL stays on then no timing pulse, which usually means No Spark as well

Crank engine over 3 times
Pull out any easy to get at spark plug
Tip should be WET with fuel, if not then no timing signal from distributor to computer(or no fuel at the injectors)
If tip is WET then light it with a match/lighter, should burn fast and bright, like gasoline, if it doesn't then it AIN'T "fuel", and bad fuel WILL cause a No Start even with 50/50 test

No timing signal also means no reliable spark, this has nothing to do with timing
3.0l uses a Remote Mounted TFI module usually under the battery tray mounted on the rad support
It gets the timing pulse from Hall Effect sensor in the distributor, 12v on/off pulse
TFI then sends that PIP signal to computer so it can time/start injectors
TFI uses that PIP signal to spark the coil, ground and unground coil "-" terminal
If there is a Tachometer in the dash it also gets that PIP pulse so Tach should go up a bit when cranking

Distributor, Coil, TFI module all get 12volts with key on sharing one 12v wire from ignition switch, test if Coil "+" has 12v key on AND at least 9v while cranking engine
(There is a rare but possible ignition switch failure mode when it cuts the 12v to spark system when in START but shows 12v in ON/RUN)

1993/94 used the same wiring so below diagrams are valid for 1993 3.0l or 1994 3.0l
TFI is called the ignition control module(ICM) in the diagram

 

I will go to the next, I have a question however;

When I am timing the distributor, (I have it out) when it comes to my crank dampner, the first TDC mark to come up is "BTDC" when rotating the crank clockwise. it goes from "BTDC, 30, 20, 10, 0 TDC"
After more research I found somebody saying to time the distributor 10 degrees from TDC, this goes back to what TDC mark to use, should I attempt that? As of right now it is set to BTDC no advancement.

Assuming BTDC is the compression stroke as it comes first, should I advance it 10 degrees to the 30 mark. Being that second TDC is the second stroke, I would assume that be exhaust?

I appreciate your advice and help.
reference picture:

 

You set it at 10deg on the BTC side of 0deg, but will still need to fine tune timing once engine is running/idling reliably, maybe even turn distributor slightly to keep it running, once it starts
No way it would start at BTC mark

Spark timing with a distributor is too finicky to set when static, it can only be set once engine is running using a timing light, 10-12deg Before TDC is spec

BTC, Before Top Center is there to tell you which side of the 0deg is before piston reaches the top(TDC), on the other side of 0deg is ATC, after top center

The spark plug must fire Before TDC(0deg) because the air/fuel mix doesn't "exploded" instantly when sparked, the flame front takes a few milliseconds it ignite the whole mix and that needs to happen After TDC so it pushes the piston down
As the RPMs go up then the spark needs to happen at 20degBTDC then 30deg BTDC, because while the crank/piston are moving faster the "explosive time" it takes stays about the same

 

So I set it to the 30-28 mark on the dampner

 

10deg mark

Then put distributor back in, rotor point at #1
If it doesn't start then rotate rotor 180deg

 

Okay I put the crank to 10 degrees, #1 wire, no start, motor moving quite a bit. I flipped the distributor 180 to face #5 and sounded smoother but still a no start, CEL comes on with key on and then turns off when cranking, SO do I check the TFI module voltage next? test for ignition switch failure?

 

Did you do 50/50 test each time?

Or test if a spark plug tip was WET after cranking

 

first go i sprayed starting fluid, second go i pulled the plug and lit it to test the gasoline and it lit up instantly. ,plug was deffinitly wet

 

I also pulled out the battery to look under the tray for the TFI module, nothing under there.

Would this be my guy?

 

Yes, that is the TFI module mounted on a heat sink, they run very hot

Seen here from the side: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...emote_tfi1.jpg

Unplug it and test if it has 12v key on and its ground is good

You have the top TFI in this drawing: https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums/...on-gif.535117/

Test the wire to Coil "-" as well, continuity

 

Yes, it's mounted into a heat sink to help with heat dissipation since these were prone to heat-related failures.

 

So testef TFI plug, results
Coil neg continuity: 0.04 ohms
Ign ground+run power continuity: 28 ohms
Ign on; 11.5V
Cranking; 9.4V

Also want to mention the TFI prongs itself have some corrosion on the prongs

UPDATE: tested tfi itself,
Coil neg read 11.85 ohms
ign on read 7.63 ohms

could tfi have gone bad? dont you want a low continuity on it?

 

Battery is getting low, lol, expected is 12.3 to 12.8v, 9.4v is OK cranking volts, low but should get enough spark

Clean up the connections as best you can

Just to confirm firing order on cap: https://www.justanswer.com/uploads/c...-18_001317.png
Distributor rotor turns clockwise
1 4 2 5 3 6

 

Yes that is the firing order. ECM had bad grounds and I just cleaned those up

I used this to verify plug wires

 

I noticed that my red/green wire is running at 24ohms, that goes from the
ICM/TFI-ign switch-ign coil-distributor-pcm power relay-pcm
24 ohms is a very high continuity, between the PCM power relay and ign switch with this wire there is a pcm power diode. If that diode shorted and cause a high continuity, that would elimate my "run power" which could be the reason it cranks and doesnt start no?
The ecm shorted due to water damage (educated guess) say that short backfed to the power relay diode, giving some power to give to all my other modules but when it comes to the run power theres a lot of interference.
Im looking for this diode and I have located my wire all around for each module but cant seem to find the diode, any chance you know where it may be?

 

Its in the engine bay fuse box

Should have the -->|-- symbol on the top

 

That is an incorrect digram of the engine bay fuse box, this is nothing like that one.

 

 

Sorry, yes that's a 1992 Ranger fuse box, I thought you you were working on a 1993

Not sure if the 1991/1992 3.0l used the power diode, the 4.0l didn't in 1991, the oldest wiring diagrams for the 3.0l I have are 1993