Cranks, won't start
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From: Cedar Creek
Cranks, won't start
89 2.9 replaced cap, rotor, ICM, plugs, wires, fuel filter, radiator, thermostat, coolant temp sensor, sender. I bought this truck a few months ago. It's been running a driving great. I had noticed a starting issue that was intermittent. It was sluggish to start like when a battery is going out. Like rrrrroooommmp rrrrroooommmp and then a quick couple of turn overs and it'd start. Still consistent however, was the easy start up in the am/cold and harder to start after driving. It starts right up when cold no problem. If I drove just a few minutes and cut it off, it wouldn't start. If I waited several hours it would start again. I bought a new battery thinking that would solve the problem. I replaced the battery in the parking lot of the auto store and surprise surprise....it didn't start. Left the truck over night and it starts right up the next day. This sort of problem continued for another week or so until this morning when I drive the truck about 50 miles, stopped for gas and the damn thing just refuses to start. I thought for sure if I went back this evening it'd crank right over but now, nothing. Its sitting at gas station and I'm out of answers and stranded.
Do the 50/50 test when it happens again, get a can of Quick Start, ether in a spray can, open air cleaner pull out filter and spray some into the engine then try to start it
You can use PCV hose or brake booster hose as well
If it starts and dies then you have a fuel issue
It it doesn't start you have a spark issue
50/50
Also when it happens again, press gas pedal down to the floor and hold it down, now try to start engine, if should NOT start, or even fire, warm or cold, with gas pedal to the floor
This is called Clear Flooded Engine Mode
All fuel injection computers have this
When gas pedal is down to the floor(WOT), throttle position sensor(TPS) sends 4.5volts to computer, if RPMs are 0 the computer enters Clear Flooded engine, it turns OFF the fuel injectors, spark is still on
So when you crank the engine no fuel is being added and throttle is wide open so any fuel(flooded engine) will be evaporated fairly quickly.
This a good test for leaking injectors
Try this when engine is working first, if throttle cable is stretched you won't get WOT so engine would start, Google: Ranger throttle cable mod to fix stretched cable, easy fix
I use Clear Flooded engine every morning on my high mile 4.0l
I crank it for 10-15 seconds then release gas pedal for startup to get oil pumped thru the engine before it starts
You don't have to stop cranking the engine, as soon as gas pedal is release computer goes back to "normal" operation
You can use PCV hose or brake booster hose as well
If it starts and dies then you have a fuel issue
It it doesn't start you have a spark issue
50/50
Also when it happens again, press gas pedal down to the floor and hold it down, now try to start engine, if should NOT start, or even fire, warm or cold, with gas pedal to the floor
This is called Clear Flooded Engine Mode
All fuel injection computers have this
When gas pedal is down to the floor(WOT), throttle position sensor(TPS) sends 4.5volts to computer, if RPMs are 0 the computer enters Clear Flooded engine, it turns OFF the fuel injectors, spark is still on
So when you crank the engine no fuel is being added and throttle is wide open so any fuel(flooded engine) will be evaporated fairly quickly.
This a good test for leaking injectors
Try this when engine is working first, if throttle cable is stretched you won't get WOT so engine would start, Google: Ranger throttle cable mod to fix stretched cable, easy fix
I use Clear Flooded engine every morning on my high mile 4.0l
I crank it for 10-15 seconds then release gas pedal for startup to get oil pumped thru the engine before it starts
You don't have to stop cranking the engine, as soon as gas pedal is release computer goes back to "normal" operation
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