do K&N cold air intakes void factory warranty? - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech General discussion of 2.9L and 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger engines.

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  #1  
Old 10-20-2006
dixie789456's Avatar
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do K&N cold air intakes void factory warranty?

i just put the 63 series on my ranger 06' ranger and was just wondering if this will void my warranty?
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Old 10-20-2006
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nope....and dont let the dealership tell you it will because it WILL NOT! they will do anything to keep from honoring a warranty!
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Old 10-20-2006
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Although the dealership may try to tell you it will, according to the magnuson-moss warranty act, the only way ANY aftermarket mod can be warranty voiding is if it directly caused the part failure.

Such as you hydrolock your motor and it's the fault of the K&N, then yes, otherwise, no.

Read all about it here.
http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/...s/warranty.htm
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Old 10-20-2006
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It depends on how you do it.when you put a cold air on it tends to go lean. On mine it went to 15.1 a/f thats pretty lean and could cause internal problems. They could get you on that.The best way is to keep the old stuff and put it back on if you have any engine problems.I've seen some places void the warranty because of that fact alone.
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Old 10-20-2006
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You computer should adjust the fuel curve after a couple of driving cycles to correct any lean air/fuel problems, just as it adjusts for different temperatures between summer/winter. No dealer can void your warranty unless the can without a doubt pinpoint a problem directly to any givin mod, it federal law.
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Old 10-24-2006
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In that case you sould be able to do any mods and not have to get a tune.
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Old 10-24-2006
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No, there are two totally different type we are talking about here man.

If you throw on a SC/Turbo with no tune whatsoever, you will a lean codition because of all the added air. A bolt (or all the bolt ons) will NOT under any circumstances cause a lean condition, especially not a 15:1 lean condition. Factory ECU's are so fat it's not even funny, usually in the mid 11:1 range. To drop a full 3-4 points in AFR means you have many other problems, not an intake. If you were to install headers, CAI, exhaust, pullies, and so on, you would STILL not have a lean condition, just not an optimum one. The only reason people pay for the tune is because after 1400 in bolt ons, you only seriously see about 12 rwhp on a good day. With a perfect tune, you may see 20.

Now do you really think you can feel 20 hp by the seat of your pants? No. You can't even see it on the track aside from a .15 or so better ET. The dyno makes you feel like you got your monies worth and that's about it. I have made back to back passes in the mid 11's to the low 12's and they all "felt" the same, people aren't calibrated well enough to see much difference.
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Old 10-24-2006
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no, it should not. but like people have said, watch the stealership they will try not to honor the warranty
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Old 10-26-2006
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Now you say sc or turbo will go lean because of the added air what do you think a cold air is doing.On any new veh. with the new maf on it will go lean as well. because the cold air kit is bigger and it throws more air.I run into this all the time in my line of work.
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Old 10-26-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected]
Now you say sc or turbo will go lean because of the added air what do you think a cold air is doing.On any new veh. with the new maf on it will go lean as well. because the cold air kit is bigger and it throws more air.I run into this all the time in my line of work.
I hate to tell you this man, but there is NO throwing air in with a CAI. You understand that an engine operates on vacuum right? Do you knwo what volumetric efficiency is? You MAY gain 2-5% more CFM of airflow which is well within the range of the stock MAF, injectors, and pump.

When you add a real FI setup to a car, every 14.7 PSI is increasing volumetric efficiency by 100% effectively making a 4.0 eat 8.0 liters of air per revolution. THAT is why you need a tune, larger injectors, and a bigger pump. When an engine is a wide open throttle, it digest it's exact amount of displacement per revolution or less depending on it's volumetric efficiency until you get into race motors purpose built with perfect cam profiles to allow exhaust scavanging to draw in more air than the engine can hold up to 110-115%. But even THEN, you could rock stock fuel and get away with it at a still very safe AFR.


I am sure you think you encounter this every day in your line of work, but unfortunately, this is what I do for a living, I make power. If you would like, I can teach you all of this over time but at the moment, you are VERY mislead.

This is not a flame, just an education. I have been doing this a very long time and there is very little you are going to manage to pull over on me. Sorry but it's just the way it is.
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  #11  
Old 10-26-2006
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you computer will adjust the amount of fuel to keep the engine from running lean. Just as it does with temperature changes. In the cold winter days the air is much denser and the computer adjusts the fuel mixture to avoid running lean. That is the reason fuel milleage changes so much as it gets colder. The computer will do the exact same thing when the intake is changed.
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Old 10-26-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slodsm
Now do you really think you can feel 20 hp by the seat of your pants? No. You can't even see it on the track aside from a .15 or so better ET. The dyno makes you feel like you got your monies worth and that's about it. I have made back to back passes in the mid 11's to the low 12's and they all "felt" the same, people aren't calibrated well enough to see much difference.
That all depends with what you are starting with. If you are running 500hp, 20hp is only a 4% difference. If you are only running 100hp, 20hp is a 20% difference and I guarantee that you will feel the difference in the "seat of your pants". At 207hp, it's a 9.66% difference, so not as much feel, but I bet "I" could probably feel a little something since I'm calibrated all the time...
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  #13  
Old 10-27-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gopher18
but I bet "I" could probably feel a little something since I'm calibrated all the time...


This is very true about the percentages, but we are dealing with a pretty heavy truck so it is also going to be less noticeable because it's going to take more power to make a drastic enough improvement.

That being said, I should be doing some street tuning here soon on my car, you wanna ride along and hold the lap top for me since my calibration is off lmfao.

And just for the sake of argument, let's not forget the power of the mind, a placebo effect if you will. You want it to be faster, you put new parts on it, so it's going to feel faster. Just the way things work.
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  #14  
Old 10-27-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slodsm
you wanna ride along and hold the lap top for me since my calibration is off lmfao.

you got it... then you can hold my laptop in my cobra and we should all be good to go
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  #15  
Old 10-27-2006
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Whew, street tuning a cobra would be a wild ride.

I don't mind doing it in 400ish-whp fwd cars as they track straight for the most part, and AWD DSM's/Evo's because you really have to have a peaky power band to get them loose, but my last fast mustang would fishtail like mad when you sprayed it and a friend of mines cobra won't even attempt to go straight with street tires and a solid axle swap with nothing more than a upper/lower pulley, ported Eaton, and full Exhaust. It's a wicked ride on the highway and I would prefer to stick with dyno and SCT/Diablo.



But I am down to try anything once if you or I are ever in the neighborhood
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