what do ya'll think about egr delete? isn't helpin out. what are the pro and cons? ya seen my rust isue, im just tryin to save money and get my lil truck runnin!

 

EGR system was added to engine to prevent heat spikes in the cylinders when under load.
These heat spikes also spike NOx emissions, and the heat also causes pinging/knocking when running 87 octane fuel.

When added to the intake, Exhaust gases slow the burning of air/fuel mix in the cylinders, so less of a spike in temp.
Technically it does effect performance IF(BIG IF) the engine doesn't ping/knock with no Exhaust gases added.
3.0l will ping/knock, it does it even with EGR if cylinders get carbon build up, lol.

Can you remove the EGR system, sure.
If you need to pass smog test then you will need to hook it back up.
If engine starts to ping/knock then you will either need to hook it back up or run higher octane, you need to test which octane works the best.

There is a DPFE sensor that the computer uses to test if EGR valve is opening, if no EGR valve the CEL will come on.
There is a way to route the hoses for the DPFE sensor to prevent that CEL from coming on.

 

hmmmm i know the sensor you speak about ron, two hoses ran to the tube between egr and exhaust. i just cut that pipe to get the head off. couldnt unbolt it due to said rust isues! lol that is why i ask about egr delete

 

That would be the DPFE(differential pressure feedback) sensor.
The two hoses hook to exhaust system one closer to EGR valve, one farther away, as computer opens EGR valve the pressure in the closer hose will drop more than the farther away hose.
With this pressure difference between the 2 hoses the computer can "tell" if EGR is indeed opening, and how much it is opening so it can vary the amount of exhaust gases entering the intake.
Actually a pretty good flexible system, older EGR systems would clogged up so less and less exhaust gases would flow in, and no way to tell that was happening, so you would fail emissions test and start to get pinging.

And I forgot to mention in my first post about spark timing.
With an EGR system spark timing can be more aggressive, to get better performance, so computers are set up differently to take advantage of that.
This is another reason an engine will get pingy when EGR is removed.
And you can't adjust spark timing without a computer programmer.

 

ok so it is a easy fix to repair the tube then! lol and cheaper than cutting the y pipe!

 

Yes you can delete it but you will have to have a custom tune in order to turn the CEL off. Look on eBay they sell EGR block off plates that would attach to the intake. If you are able to unscrew the tube going to the exhaust manifold you can get a 3/4" Brass Hose Cap from HomeDepot that will thread on to it to seal it. You may notice a slight drop in MPG from what i have read but cant say if its true or not. I have down plenty EGR deletes on Ford Lightnings and Harleys and im normally adding other performance mods at the same time which is why i cant say if deleting it hurts the MPGs.

Wayne

 

I personally wouldn't delete it. If you're really serious about it (and for some reason want to keep the 3.no), get a later 3.0. My father's 3.0 (2003) does not have an EGR for some reason.

Word of advice, though. The nut that the EGR pipe uses to connect to the exhaust manifold will be on there TIIIIIGHT. Mine needed to be replaced and we could not get that pipe off. We ended up having to cut it to get the bigger manifold nut(?) to unscrew.

That joint needed to be reused. In the end it took two breaker bars, a propane torch, and a bucket of water to get it unfrozen. Heated it cherry red and dunked it in cold water a couple times. After that, I stood on one breaker bar, while my father cranked on the other one. Took everything it had in him to muster the strength to loosen that joint.

Be prepared for a fight.....

 

Old post but what I did was I attached a large vise grip and or pipe wrench then wrapped the end with a cargo strap and attached the other end to a safe area that would pull it the correct way without making it skip off or twist off and just began to tighten it and the nut (which looked like it was never removed since inception on a 95 with 245k miles) surprisingly loosened very quickly. Just make sure you LOS is clear and you aren't using something fragile to support the rope as it tensions up