I'm kinda confused/pissed, but I came home from work and the a/c was working great, truck wasnt overheating at all.. got home and started installing my explorer visors, I was only outside 15 mins btw.. I needed all the lighting my truck had inside so i periodically turned started my truck, so my battery wouldnt die, well i was sitting there and my a/c cut out, so i checked my efan wiring because it WASNT EVEN ON! then noticed gurgling sounds coming from the coolant reservoir, coolant was BOILING and the temp gauge was pegged on H. What the hell is up here, ive driven my truck around without the efan on and it didnt even flinch! I think my efan controller is shot or something, seeing how it turns on everytime i start my truck.. any ideas? I double checked all my fuses and they are good to go.

 

damn dude sorry to hear that

 

maybe your themostat?

 

I rewired the ignition connection and it kicked back on, then when I went to put a new connector on it wouldnt come back on, I even shut the truck off and restarted it with the wires connected and it wouldnt kick back on, so I tried again and it worked, so i clamped a connector on it, and so far, so good.. so I dont know what the deal is with that. Pure craziness i tell ya

 

I had a simlar prom on one of my vehicle back in the day.. I replaced the rad cap and it fixed the problem!

 

what fuse spot do you have it in because when i first installed mine i put it in spot 20 which said it was for the radio/General electic mode, And the fan would only run right before i started my truck. Then i swicthed it to spot 29 which is just for the radio and havent had any problems since.

 

The controller I originally bought was junk. I bought a new one that is much less complicated and is adjustable. I had the same problem you did that ended in a cloud of steam until I fixed all the wiring and got a controller that worked.

 

try changing the relay?

also i would check the wireing to the A/C wire. make sure it is connected. Are you going to the purple wire behind the HVAC or that grey/white wire?

 

I don't use a controller. Mine just has a fixed temperature probe/switch and a relay. Turns on at 185F rad temp and off at 170F. Works great. I think it is Hayden P/N 226206.

 

Do you have a manual override as well?

 

No, just the thermo switch and an AC trigger.

 

Zach, I've actually got it hooked up to the purple wire on the firewall, I've adjusted the controller and it doesnt do anything differently.. I'll have to check to see which fuse I have it on, the ignition wire is actually piggy-backing off of my XM ignition wire, which is hooked to the radio turn on wire. But last night, even when the ignition wire was acting up, I went to turn on the a/c and the fan still didn't turn on, so maybe I need to just rewire the a/c wire to the one behind the hvac controls? Thanks for the responses!

 

worth a shot.

to test the controller just take the A/C wire and the ignition wire and connect them to the + battery. that will give them 12v and the fan should turn on.

 

The purple wire on the firewall going to the PCM is the same as the purple wire at the HVAC controls, just a little closer. IIRC, mine is tapped there, too.

If it was working properly before, why should the wiring need to be revised? If the fan is now inop, it sounds like a failed component or an open connection to me.

 

I'll have to try that after class, thanks!

 

Here's the thing about that- the fan turns on all the time, from a cold start, a/c on or a/c off. I'm just thinking the controller isn't working correctly and don't want the fan to not kick on one day and the engine overheat on me. I've checked that purple wire like 5 times as well as ignition wire, they all have good connections, even with the heat shrink butt connectors. Could I just change out the relay that is on the fan controller?

 

yes you can just change it out. its pretty easy to do.

 

From what I've seen, aftermarket fan controllers in general do not have a stellar reliability record...

If you want to borrow a different relay for a test, the one from your interior blower should be the same pin pattern and it has a high amp rating. It's probably in the underhood distribution box. Check your owners manual to be sure.

 

damn dude that sucks... i had the same problem with the controller keeping the fan on all the time which is why i got the new one that you have... hopefully the relay will fix the problem...

 

alrighty, i'll check it when i get home.. haha gotta love wifi connections at school!

 

my did that once,it sucked,good luck.