Fix/replace 2.9 and A4ld, or upgrade to 302?
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From: Oviedo
Fix/replace 2.9 and A4ld, or upgrade to 302?
Hey guys, I've got an 88 ranger I purchased non running. After much ado, I finally got it running and tried to drive it.
well, the engine smokes, and I wasn't very surprised, I suspect valve gaskets, but I'll replace all the gaskets for safety. I tested the cylinders and they were all close to 160, all within 10 or 15 psi. When I would shift into drive, the trans would take forever to engage and I'd have to rev up pretty high to get it to engage. Same for reverse. And once it engaged the truck felt uncontrollable and flew forward. Could it be a vacuum issue? I suspect there's a leak somewhere
i planned on upgrading to a c4 and built 302 someday already, but I really need a running truck right now, for not so much money.
bottom line is, is my trans repairable? If not, What could I replace it with?
and
I'm not really concerned with the engine Repair UNLESS, one of the heads are cracked(only has 75k miles on it), how can I test for that? what's an easy replacement engine for less than the cost of a new head?
well, the engine smokes, and I wasn't very surprised, I suspect valve gaskets, but I'll replace all the gaskets for safety. I tested the cylinders and they were all close to 160, all within 10 or 15 psi. When I would shift into drive, the trans would take forever to engage and I'd have to rev up pretty high to get it to engage. Same for reverse. And once it engaged the truck felt uncontrollable and flew forward. Could it be a vacuum issue? I suspect there's a leak somewhere
i planned on upgrading to a c4 and built 302 someday already, but I really need a running truck right now, for not so much money.
bottom line is, is my trans repairable? If not, What could I replace it with?
and
I'm not really concerned with the engine Repair UNLESS, one of the heads are cracked(only has 75k miles on it), how can I test for that? what's an easy replacement engine for less than the cost of a new head?
Glove test can tell you if you have a blown head gasket or cracked head
No, A4LD used vacuum for shifting but not to engage drive or reverse.
You could "try" replacing Valve Body and gasket, but long shot on it working, or working very long.
All automatics run on fluid pressure, to engage/release clutches, and to engage/release brakes(bands).
Front pump spins at engine RPMs, and it provides up to 175psi at engine idle, 700rpm, forward needs about 125psi to engage, reverse 150+psi
Reverse needs highest pressure which is why it being slow to engage is often first sign of low pressure.
Low pressure can be leaky internal seals and gaskets, most are in the Valve Body
But it can be leaky front pump or other issues, which requires full rebuild.
AOD would be the automatic to use with 302, no computer needed and has Overdrive, a 4-speed trans
Glove test
Remove radiator cap
Remove overflow hose, plug this port with vacuum cap, gum, putty,......??
Place latex glove over rad cap opening and seal it with a rubber band, or zip tie, or ??
(You can use a balloon or even a condom in place of the glove)
Unplug Coil's wire to distributor cap, you want a No Start
Crank over engine and watch the Glove
If Glove starts to bounce you have a cylinder leak, for sure
If glove just lays there then you don't, for sure
If glove bounces, remove 1 spark plug at a time and crank engine again
When glove stops bouncing last spark plug removed was from leaking cylinder, replace spark plug to confirm
Bad head gasket or cracked head is what you have, no way to tell which until that head is off
No, A4LD used vacuum for shifting but not to engage drive or reverse.
You could "try" replacing Valve Body and gasket, but long shot on it working, or working very long.
All automatics run on fluid pressure, to engage/release clutches, and to engage/release brakes(bands).
Front pump spins at engine RPMs, and it provides up to 175psi at engine idle, 700rpm, forward needs about 125psi to engage, reverse 150+psi
Reverse needs highest pressure which is why it being slow to engage is often first sign of low pressure.
Low pressure can be leaky internal seals and gaskets, most are in the Valve Body
But it can be leaky front pump or other issues, which requires full rebuild.
AOD would be the automatic to use with 302, no computer needed and has Overdrive, a 4-speed trans
Glove test
Remove radiator cap
Remove overflow hose, plug this port with vacuum cap, gum, putty,......??
Place latex glove over rad cap opening and seal it with a rubber band, or zip tie, or ??
(You can use a balloon or even a condom in place of the glove)
Unplug Coil's wire to distributor cap, you want a No Start
Crank over engine and watch the Glove
If Glove starts to bounce you have a cylinder leak, for sure
If glove just lays there then you don't, for sure
If glove bounces, remove 1 spark plug at a time and crank engine again
When glove stops bouncing last spark plug removed was from leaking cylinder, replace spark plug to confirm
Bad head gasket or cracked head is what you have, no way to tell which until that head is off
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Feb 19, 2016 03:53 PM
