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In reference to a beat up 1995 ford ranger with 3.0L V6, I have been doing a very low budget head gasket replacement. Im ready to purchase gaskets and head bolts but I don't know what to purchase. The truck is a 1995 with what I believe is the original engine. The head bolts are right at 103mm from the tip to the bottom of the hex head flange. Its 11mm in diameter. The threaded portion is roughly 45 to 49 mm. I did not know if they were regular bolts or TTY bolts. The engine block has recessed threads where the head bolts go. I thought somewhere it was said that a 95 would have threads to the deck top. Im going to get a fel pro kit from rockauto that has all the gaskets and such. Which bolts and torque sequence do i use?
Another issue I have is that when I was running an old head bolt into the holes after blowing out with compressed air and adding oil to the fresh sanded deck, I notice that some, but not all of the holes have a little oil residue in them and some were dry. I may have caused the issue myself, but do I need to clean the oil off so its completely dry or add just a small amount of oil to all so they are the same? Just concerned about having torque values that are way skewed by the oil.
Good pictures of the bolt hole and bolts to use, they will be TTY if they are the longer ones, and TTY are just better to use in any case
There are truck 3.0l head gaskets and car head gaskets, you need to use the truck model head gaskets, they have correct coolant routing
Try to get as much fluid as you can from the bolt holes
I dip each head bolt about 1/2" in some clean oil, so just the bottom few threads get oil, then thread it in, oil will coat all the thread as it is screwed in
You can run an old or new head bolt down each hole just to make sure all the threads are clean before placing heads on block
No on the 99 or newer. I’m thinking it’s still a 95 block. Here is what I found. Block casting is F58E and heads are E6AE. Head bolts are roughly 4.5 inches long overall. So I’m thinking not tty?