Headers?
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Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Rocky Mount, NC
Headers?
I could go V8 ........ but I dont want to! So I was sittin here lettin my thoughts fdlow when I started searchin for Long Tube Headers for my little 3.0L. Just wondering if anyone has ever though or tried this?
....... oh by the way, I searched with no results! The JBA Headers just seem to not flow as well as the stock headers to me, maybe it's me. So shed some light on the subject form e.
Will
....... oh by the way, I searched with no results! The JBA Headers just seem to not flow as well as the stock headers to me, maybe it's me. So shed some light on the subject form e.
Will
No one makes or will make long tube headers for Rangers. If you want the best bang for your buck on a 3.slow I have heard that roller rockers are where its at. Other than that put a nice sounding muffler on it and just drive it around because power and 3.0 in the same sentence just doesn't really happen.
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From: Rocky Mount, NC
No one makes or will make long tube headers for Rangers. If you want the best bang for your buck on a 3.slow I have heard that roller rockers are where its at. Other than that put a nice sounding muffler on it and just drive it around because power and 3.0 in the same sentence just doesn't really happen.
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Kansas City, MO
I have the 1674s-1 JBA Headers on my truck. Not TOO hard to put on. The best and easiest way to put your passenger side on is to lift up your truck, take your tire off, take out the inner fender well and blam...i do suggest dropping the ENTIRE exhaust except the catback. This is a awesome time to change out ur 02 sensors too. What sucks about this headers, is you have to bolt on accessories to your headers like the driver side you have to bolt on your coil to it and your dipstick. Passenger side i dont remember but there are things you have to bolt to it. They are worth the money though. From a point A to point B drag race my MPH went from 80mph to 82mph BUT i did notice a drop in low end torque but that is just all headers but when the RPMS got higher your truck will make up. Passing power is alot better. A another huge tip on putting headers on is go out and buy the cheapest 1 1-8 wrench for the egr and cut it to where you can actually work with it. My wrench was maybe 3inches long but man it worked out great hope this helped and again just because you have headers doesnt mean you should race john force...he has headers to
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Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 119
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From: Charlotte, NC
- Factory-sponsored racing with displacement limitations
- A swelling aftermarket with more money than sense
- Those who have a deep desire to prove "the norm" wrong
Would you believe me if I showed you an engine, that from the factory, only made 92 BHP @ 4,000 RPM and was prone to leaking oil that started engine fires was taken, rotating assembly beefed up and properly balanced and the cylinder head and intake system well addressed as well then took it to a street power level of 285 BHP @ 5,500 RPM? In full out IMSA race form it reached 384 BHP @ 7,200 RPM and 402 lb-ft? And would you still believe me that all of this engine trickery, boosting it to over four times it's original output, was done without any forced induction?
Because it is all true. The Iron Duke was never intended to support racing, it came to be during a time of the furthering clamp down on emissions and fuel economy sparked by the Clean Air act. Yet a "smog-purpose" engine was transformed into a beast that dominated IMSA races and even NHRA/IHRA.
Before there was a road there, there was a path and before there was a path there, it was nothing but the dangerous woods and someone had to venture forth into the unknown to make the path, which was refined into a road.
Anyway, enough ranting, as for your long tube headers, start where every company begins, with header flanges. If your good with CAD, or feel capable in learning the basics, you can design some flanges with CNC Machine Shop | Custom Waterjet, Plasma, Laser Cutting | eMachineShop.com. Buy, or have your local exhaust shop make you, some mandrel bent pipes in varying turns. Start fitment, clamp or tack weld what works, cut and modify as needed. However there is more to header design than just fitment and clearance issues, there are a few calculators out there that take varying engine conditions and calculate what size pipe and length you should work for.
Once you get all the math out of the way and all the bends and turns finished, header collectors are readily available for purchase to finish the headers and then your next step is designing your exhaust system to follow the headers.
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Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Rocky Mount, NC
EVERY engine has the potential for power! Sadly there are usually only a few ways these things are discovered:
- Factory-sponsored racing with displacement limitations
- A swelling aftermarket with more money than sense
- Those who have a deep desire to prove "the norm" wrong
Would you believe me if I showed you an engine, that from the factory, only made 92 BHP @ 4,000 RPM and was prone to leaking oil that started engine fires was taken, rotating assembly beefed up and properly balanced and the cylinder head and intake system well addressed as well then took it to a street power level of 285 BHP @ 5,500 RPM? In full out IMSA race form it reached 384 BHP @ 7,200 RPM and 402 lb-ft? And would you still believe me that all of this engine trickery, boosting it to over four times it's original output, was done without any forced induction?
Because it is all true. The Iron Duke was never intended to support racing, it came to be during a time of the furthering clamp down on emissions and fuel economy sparked by the Clean Air act. Yet a "smog-purpose" engine was transformed into a beast that dominated IMSA races and even NHRA/IHRA.
Before there was a road there, there was a path and before there was a path there, it was nothing but the dangerous woods and someone had to venture forth into the unknown to make the path, which was refined into a road.
Anyway, enough ranting, as for your long tube headers, start where every company begins, with header flanges. If your good with CAD, or feel capable in learning the basics, you can design some flanges with CNC Machine Shop | Custom Waterjet, Plasma, Laser Cutting | eMachineShop.com. Buy, or have your local exhaust shop make you, some mandrel bent pipes in varying turns. Start fitment, clamp or tack weld what works, cut and modify as needed. However there is more to header design than just fitment and clearance issues, there are a few calculators out there that take varying engine conditions and calculate what size pipe and length you should work for.
Once you get all the math out of the way and all the bends and turns finished, header collectors are readily available for purchase to finish the headers and then your next step is designing your exhaust system to follow the headers.
- Factory-sponsored racing with displacement limitations
- A swelling aftermarket with more money than sense
- Those who have a deep desire to prove "the norm" wrong
Would you believe me if I showed you an engine, that from the factory, only made 92 BHP @ 4,000 RPM and was prone to leaking oil that started engine fires was taken, rotating assembly beefed up and properly balanced and the cylinder head and intake system well addressed as well then took it to a street power level of 285 BHP @ 5,500 RPM? In full out IMSA race form it reached 384 BHP @ 7,200 RPM and 402 lb-ft? And would you still believe me that all of this engine trickery, boosting it to over four times it's original output, was done without any forced induction?
Because it is all true. The Iron Duke was never intended to support racing, it came to be during a time of the furthering clamp down on emissions and fuel economy sparked by the Clean Air act. Yet a "smog-purpose" engine was transformed into a beast that dominated IMSA races and even NHRA/IHRA.
Before there was a road there, there was a path and before there was a path there, it was nothing but the dangerous woods and someone had to venture forth into the unknown to make the path, which was refined into a road.
Anyway, enough ranting, as for your long tube headers, start where every company begins, with header flanges. If your good with CAD, or feel capable in learning the basics, you can design some flanges with CNC Machine Shop | Custom Waterjet, Plasma, Laser Cutting | eMachineShop.com. Buy, or have your local exhaust shop make you, some mandrel bent pipes in varying turns. Start fitment, clamp or tack weld what works, cut and modify as needed. However there is more to header design than just fitment and clearance issues, there are a few calculators out there that take varying engine conditions and calculate what size pipe and length you should work for.
Once you get all the math out of the way and all the bends and turns finished, header collectors are readily available for purchase to finish the headers and then your next step is designing your exhaust system to follow the headers.
- I suck at welding
- I can be a bit lazy with looking up Numbers (How far the bolt wholes are apart, etc)
And other stuff
As for long tubes though, I hear the rule is to make each pipe equal in length? Anyone know if thas true?
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Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 119
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From: Charlotte, NC
I'm glad you showed me that! The only thing prohibiting me from doing Long tubes is:
- I suck at welding
- I can be a bit lazy with looking up Numbers (How far the bolt wholes are apart, etc)
And other stuff
As for long tubes though, I hear the rule is to make each pipe equal in length? Anyone know if thas true?
- I suck at welding
- I can be a bit lazy with looking up Numbers (How far the bolt wholes are apart, etc)
And other stuff
As for long tubes though, I hear the rule is to make each pipe equal in length? Anyone know if thas true?
- Buy an exhaust manifold gasket set and go to work with the measurements
- Each pipe needs to be equal in length to the rest, which is what makes it tough, makes you add extra bends in order to reach the same lengths. If you have room, I recommend only two bends, the one coming right out of the flanges and the 90-deg at the very bottom as it goes into the collectors. This makes for very "tall" headers and can produce some ground clearance issues, but remember exhaust gas does not like to turn, if you can keep things straight as possible, the better.
Sign up at HEADERDESIGN.COM - Unlock Your Engine's Potential it has a free header design calculator, may have to bump up the power though it said my 94's 145 BHP was "unrealistically low" and wouldn't compute without bumping it to 150 BHP.
I used a performance factor of 4, which is street performance trucks with proper gearing, and what I came up with was:
Primary Pipe Inside Diameter 1.18 in.
Primary Pipe Length 41.7 in.
Collector Inside Diameter 1.74 in.
Collector Length 13.5 in.
But I also had to guess at the exhaust port length.
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 666
Likes: 0
From: Rocky Mount, NC
- Use clamps, take it to a friend or shop and have it welded up.
- Buy an exhaust manifold gasket set and go to work with the measurements
- Each pipe needs to be equal in length to the rest, which is what makes it tough, makes you add extra bends in order to reach the same lengths. If you have room, I recommend only two bends, the one coming right out of the flanges and the 90-deg at the very bottom as it goes into the collectors. This makes for very "tall" headers and can produce some ground clearance issues, but remember exhaust gas does not like to turn, if you can keep things straight as possible, the better.
Sign up at HEADERDESIGN.COM - Unlock Your Engine's Potential it has a free header design calculator, may have to bump up the power though it said my 94's 145 BHP was "unrealistically low" and wouldn't compute without bumping it to 150 BHP.
I used a performance factor of 4, which is street performance trucks with proper gearing, and what I came up with was:
Primary Pipe Inside Diameter 1.18 in.
Primary Pipe Length 41.7 in.
Collector Inside Diameter 1.74 in.
Collector Length 13.5 in.
But I also had to guess at the exhaust port length.
- Buy an exhaust manifold gasket set and go to work with the measurements
- Each pipe needs to be equal in length to the rest, which is what makes it tough, makes you add extra bends in order to reach the same lengths. If you have room, I recommend only two bends, the one coming right out of the flanges and the 90-deg at the very bottom as it goes into the collectors. This makes for very "tall" headers and can produce some ground clearance issues, but remember exhaust gas does not like to turn, if you can keep things straight as possible, the better.
Sign up at HEADERDESIGN.COM - Unlock Your Engine's Potential it has a free header design calculator, may have to bump up the power though it said my 94's 145 BHP was "unrealistically low" and wouldn't compute without bumping it to 150 BHP.
I used a performance factor of 4, which is street performance trucks with proper gearing, and what I came up with was:
Primary Pipe Inside Diameter 1.18 in.
Primary Pipe Length 41.7 in.
Collector Inside Diameter 1.74 in.
Collector Length 13.5 in.
But I also had to guess at the exhaust port length.
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