How to adjust the idle set screw? - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 03-10-2010
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How to adjust the idle set screw?

Can someone tell me the correct way to adjust the idle set screw on a 2003 3.0l Flex Fuel engine?

Lets just say mine was "adjusted" incorrectly and I need to get it back to the proper factory setting.
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Old 03-10-2010
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the "idle screw" should not be adjusted, the idle air control motor sets the idle...how do you know it was adjusted incorrectly?
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Old 03-10-2010
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Originally Posted by Toreador4x4 View Post
the "idle screw" should not be adjusted, the idle air control motor sets the idle...how do you know it was adjusted incorrectly?
I moved it, don't ask why. But it has to have a proper way to set it or it would be a hard stop and not an adjustable screw.
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Old 03-10-2010
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I would try adjusting it back by watching the butterfly in the TB. I am not sure how much it should be closed though.
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Old 03-10-2010
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Since im not seeing it in the PC/ED or workshop manual,

-i would either adjust it with the IAC disconnected to about 700 RPM
or
-adjust it with the key on until the TPS voltage is less than 1v, around .96 is optimal. if you havent removed the TPS since you adjusted the screw you should be able to use the second method
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Old 03-10-2010
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Excellent. I will try that.

What color wires do I piggyback to check the TPS voltage on?
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Old 03-10-2010
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not sure, there is a thread around here on it, ill search
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Old 03-10-2010
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everyone says it is the "green" wire, i cant verify this since im in bed, but you back probe one of the wires and conect the other lead to ground, turn the screw to .96v and then at WOT you should be close to 5v. disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes and start it and see how it runs
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Old 03-11-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toreador4x4 View Post
everyone says it is the "green" wire, i cant verify this since im in bed, but you back probe one of the wires and conect the other lead to ground, turn the screw to .96v and then at WOT you should be close to 5v. disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes and start it and see how it runs


That is what I read. Unfortunatly there is no green wire. So I will continue researching. Thank-you for all the help you provided. It is appreciated.
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Old 03-11-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lorenambrose View Post
What color wires do I piggyback to check the TPS voltage on?
(+) grey/white
(-) grey/red
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Old 03-11-2010
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Originally Posted by rwenzing View Post
(+) grey/white
(-) grey/red
Wonderful, Thank-you. I have a haynes manual but the wiring diagrams are more like block drawings and details like this are ommited.
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Old 03-11-2010
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I found mine to be mis-adjusted when I purchased the truck causing it to take forever to loose rpm.

I ran the screw out untill it no longer touched the throttle body, and then back in so it just barley lifted it. I found that to work for me just fine. At first I didn't turn it in enough and it was closing all the way and making a seal, causing it to bind for a split second. A half turn in on the screw and it was fixed.

Hope that help for a non tech possibility. lol
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Old 03-11-2010
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I think Stranger has it right. My throttle screw was adjusted too low when I bought my Ranger new. The throttle would slightly stick sometimes at idle. I adjusted the screw in a little and the problem went away. I think that adjustment screw is there to keep the throttle plate from sticking in the throttle body by preventing it from fully closing to a binding position.
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Old 03-11-2010
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that is why it is there, but i am using the TPS as a reference point to set it back to that spot
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