2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech General discussion of 2.9L and 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger engines.

IAC problem

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Old Mar 2, 2009
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IAC problem

ok so i just bought a new iac and installed it at 8:30 at nite cause the truck was idling at 1500 when warm so i got a new one....so i put it on and the truck is cold so i dont know forsure if its working but i read someware that if u pull the plug going to it and the motor stalls or runs differently it is working so after i installed it i started it up and pulled the plug and nothing happened.....what does this mean.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2009
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come on anybody....did i just spend 77.99 for nothing
 
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Old Mar 3, 2009
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Old Mar 3, 2009
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You either have a vacuum leak somewhere, or somebody has screwed with the throttle plate position, which throws off the TPS idle position voltage.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2009
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how would i get the tps screw back to normal?
 
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Old Mar 3, 2009
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Give this a try: Connect a voltmeter to the TPS. + lead on the gray/white wire, and - lead on the brown/white wire. Turn ignition to the "RUN" position, and adjust the throttle plate stop screw until you measure 0.9V (900mV).

After doing this, and since you have replaced the IAC, the PCM needs to be reset. You can do this by turning your headlights on, and then disconnect the negative battery cable for a few seconds.......
 
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Old Mar 3, 2009
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Originally Posted by Takeda
You can do this by turning your headlights on, and then disconnect the negative battery cable for a few seconds.......
When replacing the IAC, this should be step number one. Plus you need to put it through the idle learn process. (do a search and you'll see how to do it)

Rich
 
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Old Mar 3, 2009
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is your thermostat sticking open and not allowing your truck to warm completely up mine did this and once i put a new stat in it worked fine.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2009
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no it warms up fine and it seams that if the car is warm and i unplug it it will start to die but tf its cold it wont do anything.i'l deff do that headlight thing.....also the little cap on the iac seems to suck a lot of air and make a whistle....sometimes.....
 
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Old Mar 6, 2009
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ok so when i hooked up my multimeter it read -3.76 unplugged and -4.23 plugged in and to get it to read -.9 (im guessing he had the wires listed backward) i would have to push the throttle to almost full. wtf?
 

Last edited by t5cents; Mar 6, 2009 at 05:52 PM.
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Old Mar 6, 2009
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Old Mar 6, 2009
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come on im in the middle of trying to figure this out....whats going on.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2009
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It sound like yout measuring between the sense wire, and +5V. Move your - lead to the 3rd wire you haven't probed yet.....
 
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Old Mar 6, 2009
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no when i plug on that one its -5.1 to -5.0......the 4.23 changes when i turn the throttle by hand and at full throttle its at like -.68 or somthing...its like its backwards.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2009
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If your measuring -5.1 to -5.0, your measuring between GND, and +5V, with your + lead on GND, and - lead on +5V.With this condition, switch the leads so your measuring +5V. When you have this, move the + lead to the 3rd wire, and this should be correct.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2009
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ok so i got it working (had to ground on metal and pos on the gray and white wire....set it to .96. then i did the headlight flash one and then the 5 min flash and the cysles of ac. idle relearn. so now it feels like it runs better with better throttle responce but it idles at like 1600 to 1800 so if i cant figure any thing else out im unscrewing that screw till its at about 800
 
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Old Mar 6, 2009
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Old Mar 7, 2009
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Make sure you have close to 0V and 5V (WRT negative battery terminal).
 
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Old Mar 7, 2009
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i dont get it. what does wrt mean
 
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Old Mar 7, 2009
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With Respect To ....Tie your - lead to the negative battery terminal
 
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Old Mar 7, 2009
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well today i turned it pack so its not touching and it idles at like 8-900 instead of the 1800-1900 when i had it adjusted "right"
 
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