Internal computer update / replacement
Internal computer update / replacement
It seems that my truck's internal computer isn't telling the alternator (new) to charge the battery (also new). I'm aty wits end trying to remedy this.
Any of you pros have any suggestions?
Any of you pros have any suggestions?
2003 Ranger
2.3l. 3.0l, 4.0l engine???
I doubt its the smart charging system
When you turn the Key On does the Battery Light come on and stay on(engine off)
If not then fuse 11 in the cab fuse box is blown/bad, replace it, 7.5amp
This is the ON/OFF switch for alternator
New alternators often don't work, just FYI, some people have to get 2 to 4 replacements to get a good one
So lets test some wires at the alternator to see if the Rangers side is OK
This is for V6 Rangers, 3.0l/4.0l engines
Test battery volts, 12.3v to 12.9v is expected, remember that number
KEY OFF
Put Volt Meter's Black probe on the Alternators metal case, thats the GROUND for all tests
Put Red probe on B+, thats the larger terminal with the stud/nut, should see Battery Voltage, what you remembered, exactly
If not then a Fusible link has Blown in the harness near the engine fuse box
Unplug the 3 wire connector on alternator, the voltage regulator wires
Test Yellow wire, should see Battery Volts exactly
If not a different Fusible Link is blown
Test Green wire, should be 0 volts
Turn Key ON
Retest green wire, should now see Battery Volts, but this one can be a little less now
If not then Fuse 11 is blown
If all 3 wires tested as OK, then Ranger wire is PERFECT, 100%, no doubts at all
Plug 3 wire connector back in
Start engine
Test battery volts, should be 13.5 to 14.9volts, if so alternator is working
If not alternator is bad, this is not a guess
And just FYI, there is no parts store on the planet that can test an alternator, well to be fair I only know about the US and Canada parts stores, and they can NOT test an alternator
And Starter motors either, always bugged me when they started trying to test these two things
YOU can test them, ON THE VEHICLE
2.3l. 3.0l, 4.0l engine???
I doubt its the smart charging system
When you turn the Key On does the Battery Light come on and stay on(engine off)
If not then fuse 11 in the cab fuse box is blown/bad, replace it, 7.5amp
This is the ON/OFF switch for alternator
New alternators often don't work, just FYI, some people have to get 2 to 4 replacements to get a good one
So lets test some wires at the alternator to see if the Rangers side is OK
This is for V6 Rangers, 3.0l/4.0l engines
Test battery volts, 12.3v to 12.9v is expected, remember that number
KEY OFF
Put Volt Meter's Black probe on the Alternators metal case, thats the GROUND for all tests
Put Red probe on B+, thats the larger terminal with the stud/nut, should see Battery Voltage, what you remembered, exactly
If not then a Fusible link has Blown in the harness near the engine fuse box
Unplug the 3 wire connector on alternator, the voltage regulator wires
Test Yellow wire, should see Battery Volts exactly
If not a different Fusible Link is blown
Test Green wire, should be 0 volts
Turn Key ON
Retest green wire, should now see Battery Volts, but this one can be a little less now
If not then Fuse 11 is blown
If all 3 wires tested as OK, then Ranger wire is PERFECT, 100%, no doubts at all
Plug 3 wire connector back in
Start engine
Test battery volts, should be 13.5 to 14.9volts, if so alternator is working
If not alternator is bad, this is not a guess
And just FYI, there is no parts store on the planet that can test an alternator, well to be fair I only know about the US and Canada parts stores, and they can NOT test an alternator
And Starter motors either, always bugged me when they started trying to test these two things
YOU can test them, ON THE VEHICLE
2003 Ranger
2.3l. 3.0l, 4.0l engine???
I doubt its the smart charging system
When you turn the Key On does the Battery Light come on and stay on(engine off)
If not then fuse 11 in the cab fuse box is blown/bad, replace it, 7.5amp
This is the ON/OFF switch for alternator
New alternators often don't work, just FYI, some people have to get 2 to 4 replacements to get a good one
So lets test some wires at the alternator to see if the Rangers side is OK
This is for V6 Rangers, 3.0l/4.0l engines
Test battery volts, 12.3v to 12.9v is expected, remember that number
KEY OFF
Put Volt Meter's Black probe on the Alternators metal case, thats the GROUND for all tests
Put Red probe on B+, thats the larger terminal with the stud/nut, should see Battery Voltage, what you remembered, exactly
If not then a Fusible link has Blown in the harness near the engine fuse box
Unplug the 3 wire connector on alternator, the voltage regulator wires
Test Yellow wire, should see Battery Volts exactly
If not a different Fusible Link is blown
Test Green wire, should be 0 volts
Turn Key ON
Retest green wire, should now see Battery Volts, but this one can be a little less now
If not then Fuse 11 is blown
If all 3 wires tested as OK, then Ranger wire is PERFECT, 100%, no doubts at all
Plug 3 wire connector back in
Start engine
Test battery volts, should be 13.5 to 14.9volts, if so alternator is working
If not alternator is bad, this is not a guess
And just FYI, there is no parts store on the planet that can test an alternator, well to be fair I only know about the US and Canada parts stores, and they can NOT test an alternator
And Starter motors either, always bugged me when they started trying to test these two things
YOU can test them, ON THE VEHICLE
2.3l. 3.0l, 4.0l engine???
I doubt its the smart charging system
When you turn the Key On does the Battery Light come on and stay on(engine off)
If not then fuse 11 in the cab fuse box is blown/bad, replace it, 7.5amp
This is the ON/OFF switch for alternator
New alternators often don't work, just FYI, some people have to get 2 to 4 replacements to get a good one
So lets test some wires at the alternator to see if the Rangers side is OK
This is for V6 Rangers, 3.0l/4.0l engines
Test battery volts, 12.3v to 12.9v is expected, remember that number
KEY OFF
Put Volt Meter's Black probe on the Alternators metal case, thats the GROUND for all tests
Put Red probe on B+, thats the larger terminal with the stud/nut, should see Battery Voltage, what you remembered, exactly
If not then a Fusible link has Blown in the harness near the engine fuse box
Unplug the 3 wire connector on alternator, the voltage regulator wires
Test Yellow wire, should see Battery Volts exactly
If not a different Fusible Link is blown
Test Green wire, should be 0 volts
Turn Key ON
Retest green wire, should now see Battery Volts, but this one can be a little less now
If not then Fuse 11 is blown
If all 3 wires tested as OK, then Ranger wire is PERFECT, 100%, no doubts at all
Plug 3 wire connector back in
Start engine
Test battery volts, should be 13.5 to 14.9volts, if so alternator is working
If not alternator is bad, this is not a guess
And just FYI, there is no parts store on the planet that can test an alternator, well to be fair I only know about the US and Canada parts stores, and they can NOT test an alternator
And Starter motors either, always bugged me when they started trying to test these two things
YOU can test them, ON THE VEHICLE
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Liquidswords32
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Oct 1, 2010 03:47 PM



