I read about this maf mod .... Anyone tried it.. how did it go ?? Is it real hard to do ??

 

Read this including the warnings. Your 2000 MAF may or may not be the same as the one in this How-to.

 

If you have a 3.0, and you don't damage your MAF (possible but very rare -- I'm trying to remember if anyone has yet and I don't think so), you're in pretty good shape. Although there are no guarantees, we've had no real problems with this on 3.0's.

4.0's are another matter! They have a much greater variation of results after the mod and some of them run too lean at open throttle positions afterwards. I actually had to "feather" all the cut edges on one 4.0 I did in order to get the fuel trim back withing spec -- although it still added quite a bit to get to ratio.

If you have the older metal MAF, there is still a version of the MAF mod that works. Look for it on http://www.rogueperformance.com if it's still there.

Edit: Direct link to metal MAF mod: http://www.rogueperformance.com/ModifiedMAF.html

The guy who maintains that site is one of my "heroes" and inspired me to experiment with my 3.0.

 

All you are basically doing is removing an obstruction in tha air passage. What happens is you start messing with the a/f ratio. I did one of mine but never again. Ping ping on my 3.0 after doing it.

Here is a more reasonable mod you can do. It involves the Throttle body. Some guy did air flow testing on the maf and Throttle body and determined the maf area outflowed the throttle body. The conclusion is the throttle body is a bigger obstruction.

http://stuffforyourranger.com/How_To...lls/tbmod.html

 

I did the half shaft mod per the instructions on RoguePerformance, if that's what your recommending. Doing both helps quite a bit.

Very few have gotten pinging, but that's a possibility. However, it doesn't affect your A/F ratio at all, and if it does, you'll get a CEL. The system is closed loop and will add/subtract fuel to compensate for MAF performance (based on O2 readings) up to a certain limit. Beyond that limit, you get a CEL.

A common misconception is that changing the MAF is going to change your A/F ratio. This is only true at WOT. At anything less than that, it's closed loop fuel control and an out-of-control condition results in a CEL. If you don't get a CEL after a while, you don't have an A/F problem that wasn't there BEFORE the MAF mod (due to a bad O2 sensor for instance).

 

My symptom was at WOT.

 

They you were definitely running lean. Might have been possible to trim it like I did the 4.0 by feathering the cut edges to reduce turbulence.

 

i got the metal maf sensor... Yea iv heard good and bad about doing it...

Iv got a k&n and my air filter box hollowed out... My truck runs good.. just bogs down some when flooring it from a stand still... I just put autolight double platinum plugs in it.. And autolight 8mm premium wires.. I got the cats cut out and a dynomax superflow muffler dumped and, e fan

.. Iv got the cel light on now cause no cats.. Im just look for that off the line torque..But dont wanna regear to save gas milage on the highway... I heard people putting a throttle body from a 5.0 on there 3.0 .. i would just get a cold air intake but i dont think it will really make that much difference seeing how the only restriction i got in my intake is the maf sensor and the stock intake tube...Thats only 5 hp for 300 bucks..... Iv got the flex fuel model so it should be able to dump enough fuel in to keep from running lean..

 

I have the metal one. I tried the mod with no success ended up buying a new one

 

Yea iv decided not to risk it... dont got the money to waste on a new one..

 

Haven't hear of problems with the 3.0 metal mod either really. Could be the sensor was damaged during the mod -- easy to do and probably the BIGGEST risk with it. Although you can actually remove the electronics on the metal one and you just mod the housing, so I would think it harder to mess the actual sensor up.

It's not for the "faint-hearted", lol. I knew of no one who had done the plastic MAF's when I did mine. I did it in the parking lot at work just before I left for home -- talk about an "act of faith", lol.

 

Would that work at all? I thought that would seriously mess with your ECU?

 

No, if the IAC can be hooked up to work properly. The TB is not "calibrated" like the MAF is. But some TB's have to have the correct setup for the IAC.

 

ok so i did this mod and i got a CEL
but it feels like it runs the same excpet for whne i step on it
so mabey th a/f ratio is just a tiny bit off.. casue it wasnt even running ne hotter than usual

 

Which MAF do you have, Bryce, plastic or metal? You're probably leaning on WOT. If you have the plastic MAF, I can tell you how to get out of that I do believe. I just redid mine (even though I didn't have a CEL) the way I did the 4.0's that faulted to fix them, and it' "flattened out" my long term fuel trim a lot.

 

i have the plastic one but i wnet back later today and disconected the batt for like 30 minutes then idled it again and there was no light ne more i think i just didnt have the clip in all the way..
but yeah i dorove it to my g-mas and back after i reset it the second time and everything was fine .. so idk what happened but its gone now haha

 

What kinda tool did u use to cut the metal one ??

 

I did a ram air mod on my 93 ranger with a 23. It is done in a way that only the you only need to remove the front scope and adjust. it works real well been running it since febuary its middle of April. I took it on a 300 miles round trip for Easter and only used half a tank gas maybe 6 gallons check out its done on little camera but youll get the idea after watching thanks