Misfire to no power
Misfire to no power
Howdy, so I am trying to solve a cylinder 3 misfire that has now spread to cylinder 4. Tried to compression test but only got a couple revolutions and the truck died with all but one plug in, fuel pump relay removed, and ignition module disconnected. Reattached everything and changed camshaft sync and the truck started. Still misfire on 2 cylinders so I removed fuel pump relay again and pulled all plugs and wires. Just one click and all power died. If I pull the + battery terminal and re-attach I get power back. Tried inserting all plugs in the boots and grounding so they could fire while I test for compression and still one click, total power loss. Return truck to normal operating conditions and still 1 click total power loss. I get the same result if I try to jump out the solenoid on the started. I am at a loss here, I have created a problem that wasn’t there when I started this
*update* got it to crank, cleaned positive battery terminal connections and applied dielectric grease. Found out I have 3 cylinders that can’t make 100psi, the other three have 120,120,and 150psi. Wet test showed bad piston rings. With 270xxx not sure if this is worth the work or a new vehicle. Any thoughts or advice is greatly appreciated
*update* got it to crank, cleaned positive battery terminal connections and applied dielectric grease. Found out I have 3 cylinders that can’t make 100psi, the other three have 120,120,and 150psi. Wet test showed bad piston rings. With 270xxx not sure if this is worth the work or a new vehicle. Any thoughts or advice is greatly appreciated
Last edited by gravelor; Jul 20, 2019 at 03:07 PM. Reason: Update
Welcome to the forum
What YEAR Ranger?
And if 1991/1992 what engine 2.9l or 3.0l?
You have either a bad Positive battery cable connection or a bad Negative battery cable connection, the "click" when activating starter motor means a high AMP cable, is not making good contact with starter motor or its Ground(negative cable)
Starter motor needs 60-75amps to turn engine, which is why battery cables are so large compared to other wires in a vehicle
Battery voltage also needs to be tested
12.8volts is a new battery
12.5volts is a 3 year old battery
12.3volts a 5/6 year old battery and time to shop for battery sale
12.2volts or lower is either a dead or dying battery, only about 25% of amp capacity left
What YEAR Ranger?
And if 1991/1992 what engine 2.9l or 3.0l?
You have either a bad Positive battery cable connection or a bad Negative battery cable connection, the "click" when activating starter motor means a high AMP cable, is not making good contact with starter motor or its Ground(negative cable)
Starter motor needs 60-75amps to turn engine, which is why battery cables are so large compared to other wires in a vehicle
Battery voltage also needs to be tested
12.8volts is a new battery
12.5volts is a 3 year old battery
12.3volts a 5/6 year old battery and time to shop for battery sale
12.2volts or lower is either a dead or dying battery, only about 25% of amp capacity left
Welcome to the forum
What YEAR Ranger?
And if 1991/1992 what engine 2.9l or 3.0l?
You have either a bad Positive battery cable connection or a bad Negative battery cable connection, the "click" when activating starter motor means a high AMP cable, is not making good contact with starter motor or its Ground(negative cable)
Starter motor needs 60-75amps to turn engine, which is why battery cables are so large compared to other wires in a vehicle
Battery voltage also needs to be tested
12.8volts is a new battery
12.5volts is a 3 year old battery
12.3volts a 5/6 year old battery and time to shop for battery sale
12.2volts or lower is either a dead or dying battery, only about 25% of amp capacity left
What YEAR Ranger?
And if 1991/1992 what engine 2.9l or 3.0l?
You have either a bad Positive battery cable connection or a bad Negative battery cable connection, the "click" when activating starter motor means a high AMP cable, is not making good contact with starter motor or its Ground(negative cable)
Starter motor needs 60-75amps to turn engine, which is why battery cables are so large compared to other wires in a vehicle
Battery voltage also needs to be tested
12.8volts is a new battery
12.5volts is a 3 year old battery
12.3volts a 5/6 year old battery and time to shop for battery sale
12.2volts or lower is either a dead or dying battery, only about 25% of amp capacity left
Very odd to have rings wear out under 400k miles, certainly possible
So spark plug tips showed signs of oil fouling?
3.0ls were more likely to get burnt exhaust valves, the cylinders ran hot with 9.3:1 compression ratios, so tended to ping which raised temps even higher
If it is rings wet test should get cylinders up to 120psi, is that what happened?
Wet test will always be higher even in an engine with no problems
Have a look at local prices on used 3.0l Vulcan engines, rebuilt long block runs about $1,500 exchange
You can used 1986 to 2008 3.0l Vulcan long block, flex or gas only doesn't matter
From a Ranger or B3000 you just need to swap over your upper and lower intakes
If its from a car then you will need to change head gaskets
Get the prices first then you can decide if its worth it
So spark plug tips showed signs of oil fouling?
3.0ls were more likely to get burnt exhaust valves, the cylinders ran hot with 9.3:1 compression ratios, so tended to ping which raised temps even higher
If it is rings wet test should get cylinders up to 120psi, is that what happened?
Wet test will always be higher even in an engine with no problems
Have a look at local prices on used 3.0l Vulcan engines, rebuilt long block runs about $1,500 exchange
You can used 1986 to 2008 3.0l Vulcan long block, flex or gas only doesn't matter
From a Ranger or B3000 you just need to swap over your upper and lower intakes
If its from a car then you will need to change head gaskets
Get the prices first then you can decide if its worth it
Last edited by RonD; Jul 20, 2019 at 04:08 PM.
Wet test
Very odd to have rings wear out under 400k miles, certainly possible
So spark plug tips showed signs of oil fouling?
3.0ls were more likely to get burnt exhaust valves, the cylinders ran hot with 9.3:1 compression ratios, so tended to ping which raised temps even higher
If it is rings wet test should get cylinders up to 120psi, is that what happened?
Wet test will always be higher even in an engine with no problems
Have a look at local prices on used 3.0l Vulcan engines, rebuilt long block runs about $1,500 exchange
You can used 1986 to 2008 3.0l Vulcan long block, flex or gas only doesn't matter
From a Ranger or B3000 you just need to swap over your upper and lower intakes
If its from a car then you will need to change head gaskets
Get the prices first then you can decide if its worth it
So spark plug tips showed signs of oil fouling?
3.0ls were more likely to get burnt exhaust valves, the cylinders ran hot with 9.3:1 compression ratios, so tended to ping which raised temps even higher
If it is rings wet test should get cylinders up to 120psi, is that what happened?
Wet test will always be higher even in an engine with no problems
Have a look at local prices on used 3.0l Vulcan engines, rebuilt long block runs about $1,500 exchange
You can used 1986 to 2008 3.0l Vulcan long block, flex or gas only doesn't matter
From a Ranger or B3000 you just need to swap over your upper and lower intakes
If its from a car then you will need to change head gaskets
Get the prices first then you can decide if its worth it
Prices
I can get another engine for ~250 from junkyard or a rebuild kit for between 300-600. Truck also needs torque converter. I just am not sure whether all this is worth doing given the age of the truck. Would really hate to do all this and have more problems immediately, but I dont know how long these trucks typically last under moderate work loads
400k miles on chassis in average, I am over that now on my 1994
Automatic transmissions also need service which can be expensive if a shop does it, they have clutches and brakes(bands) inside which are slow to wear out but do wear out, any slipping or overheating wears them out faster
You have a 20 year old vehicle so it will need repairs
Look at replacement cost for maybe a 10 year old vehicle to see if repair cost is worth it
Avoid 2004-2006 Ranger 3.0l/B3000 engines, they had issue with exhaust valve seats in the heads
Automatic transmissions also need service which can be expensive if a shop does it, they have clutches and brakes(bands) inside which are slow to wear out but do wear out, any slipping or overheating wears them out faster
You have a 20 year old vehicle so it will need repairs
Look at replacement cost for maybe a 10 year old vehicle to see if repair cost is worth it
Avoid 2004-2006 Ranger 3.0l/B3000 engines, they had issue with exhaust valve seats in the heads
400k miles on chassis in average, I am over that now on my 1994
Automatic transmissions also need service which can be expensive if a shop does it, they have clutches and brakes(bands) inside which are slow to wear out but do wear out, any slipping or overheating wears them out faster
You have a 20 year old vehicle so it will need repairs
Look at replacement cost for maybe a 10 year old vehicle to see if repair cost is worth it
Avoid 2004-2006 Ranger 3.0l/B3000 engines, they had issue with exhaust valve seats in the heads
Automatic transmissions also need service which can be expensive if a shop does it, they have clutches and brakes(bands) inside which are slow to wear out but do wear out, any slipping or overheating wears them out faster
You have a 20 year old vehicle so it will need repairs
Look at replacement cost for maybe a 10 year old vehicle to see if repair cost is worth it
Avoid 2004-2006 Ranger 3.0l/B3000 engines, they had issue with exhaust valve seats in the heads
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jsto69
General Technical & Electrical
6
Jul 23, 2018 10:33 AM



