New Long Block and Valve adjustment
#1
New Long Block and Valve adjustment
Thanks in advance!
Moving forward on getting my 2.9 together. On the list for today was valve adjustment. Saw the thread that detailed the different takes on how much of a turn. Some said 1/2, Haynes book here sez 1 1/2. Was going to go with 3/4. Saw that there was quite a gap, started thinking: Hey, the lifters are dry. So... should I fill up with oil and get the galleys going by just cranking to oil pressure via the starting motor? Will that be enough? Seems the dry gap is pretty wide, so I sure wouldn't want to fire it up this way.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you!
tony
Moving forward on getting my 2.9 together. On the list for today was valve adjustment. Saw the thread that detailed the different takes on how much of a turn. Some said 1/2, Haynes book here sez 1 1/2. Was going to go with 3/4. Saw that there was quite a gap, started thinking: Hey, the lifters are dry. So... should I fill up with oil and get the galleys going by just cranking to oil pressure via the starting motor? Will that be enough? Seems the dry gap is pretty wide, so I sure wouldn't want to fire it up this way.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you!
tony
Last edited by Tonystar1; 01-11-2019 at 01:33 PM.
#2
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Yes, disable spark and crank the engine over a few times to fill lifters
But lifters have springs inside to hold then up all the way, regardless of oil inside when adjusting
Usually for hydraulic lifters you make sure cam lobe is at lowest point then tighten rocker until it is tight against valve stem and pushrod, THEN you tighten it the 3/4 of a turn to compress the lifter
The 90deg(1/2 turn) to 360deg(full turn) tightening has to do with the threads on the stud, finer threads wont push down on lifter as far as course threads in the same 270deg turn(3/4)
If you don't compress lifter enough it will "tick", if you compress it too much you will lose power as valve takes too long to close, but there is a large margin for error with hydraulic lifters
Rocker Tight and then 3/4 should be fine, position of Cam is important
But lifters have springs inside to hold then up all the way, regardless of oil inside when adjusting
Usually for hydraulic lifters you make sure cam lobe is at lowest point then tighten rocker until it is tight against valve stem and pushrod, THEN you tighten it the 3/4 of a turn to compress the lifter
The 90deg(1/2 turn) to 360deg(full turn) tightening has to do with the threads on the stud, finer threads wont push down on lifter as far as course threads in the same 270deg turn(3/4)
If you don't compress lifter enough it will "tick", if you compress it too much you will lose power as valve takes too long to close, but there is a large margin for error with hydraulic lifters
Rocker Tight and then 3/4 should be fine, position of Cam is important
#3
#4
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Rocker should be tight against valve and pushrod FIRST no gap, then you do the 3/4 turn, to compress the lifter
The lifter can't open the valve until its fully compressed, the point of hydraulic lifters is to quiet down the engine, to do that there can be no gap and lifter is actually compressed a bit so no gap will occur even at higher RPMs
The lifter can't open the valve until its fully compressed, the point of hydraulic lifters is to quiet down the engine, to do that there can be no gap and lifter is actually compressed a bit so no gap will occur even at higher RPMs
#5
Ah, I get it now. The lifter is (due to the internal spring), at its limit now. Running it with no spark would pump up the lifter, but my half turn/full turn adjustment would be good. My concern was that in taking up the slack to get the rocker to touch the valve I was taking up a good amount of thread space on the adjuster. While I stopped myself after a turn, and backed off of that, I feared that when the lifter pumped up, I'd be putting a weird load there.
tony
tony
#6
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
#7
Thanks for your reply and your patience, Ron. I will update you on how it goes. Maybe I should take some pics to help those who follow.
Up early here; checking out the threads for a schematic on the power steering pump bracket assembly. When I took this off, everything was so greasy and I've got two spacers and a funky square washer to figure out.
Really do appreciate the time you give me, so thanks again.
tony
Up early here; checking out the threads for a schematic on the power steering pump bracket assembly. When I took this off, everything was so greasy and I've got two spacers and a funky square washer to figure out.
Really do appreciate the time you give me, so thanks again.
tony
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post