Once Warmed Up Engine Dies
Once Warmed Up Engine Dies
Hello All,
First time posting. The truck is a 2004 Ranger Edge 3.0L V6, 2x4. It will start when cold but when it warms up, engine dies and the check engine light comes on. OBD2 diagnostics returns a P0117 code Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low Input. I replaced thermostat and ECT sensor (gray connector to right of thermostat housing). It fired right up and ran for about 8-10 minutes and died. I have read another similar thread that discussed testing the wires but I don’t quite understand the testing procedure. I would appreciate any recommendations or guidance the group my have. Thanks.
First time posting. The truck is a 2004 Ranger Edge 3.0L V6, 2x4. It will start when cold but when it warms up, engine dies and the check engine light comes on. OBD2 diagnostics returns a P0117 code Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low Input. I replaced thermostat and ECT sensor (gray connector to right of thermostat housing). It fired right up and ran for about 8-10 minutes and died. I have read another similar thread that discussed testing the wires but I don’t quite understand the testing procedure. I would appreciate any recommendations or guidance the group my have. Thanks.
ECT sensor has a grey/red stripe wire
ECT sender(dash temp gauge) has red/white wire
So did the Code P0117 come back?
You need to use a sewing needle to pierce the wires to test voltages
Grey/red wire is 5v, but may not read on some volt meters, its a "pull up" circuit
The "other wire" has the return voltage, the "temp"
Its about 3.0v at 70deg
At operating temp, 185degF, if should be under 1 volt
Graph here: https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...st-gif.460085/
ECT sender(dash temp gauge) has red/white wire
So did the Code P0117 come back?
You need to use a sewing needle to pierce the wires to test voltages
Grey/red wire is 5v, but may not read on some volt meters, its a "pull up" circuit
The "other wire" has the return voltage, the "temp"
Its about 3.0v at 70deg
At operating temp, 185degF, if should be under 1 volt
Graph here: https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...st-gif.460085/
Sorry for the delay. After cooling down it started again and ran for a short time, check engine light came back on and it died. OBD II gave no codes at all (P0117 no longer came up nor did any other codes). I let it cool down, located the ECT wires, one was red/grey and when tested read 0 volts. The other was green/red and when tested read 2 volts. Any ideas on what to do next? I appreciate any help you can provide!
2 volts would be about 110degF, does that sound about the right temp when you tested it?
If so ECT is OK
CEL came on but no codes?
Thats odd
When it does die, does it start right back up?
Or do you have to wait?
If you have to wait, try disconnecting one battery cable
Count to 10 then reconnect it and try starting again
I am thinking Computer may be your issue, unhooking power resets it, but...................
Could just be a dirty fuel filter, not expensive to replace, and should be replaced every 5-7 years or so
If fuel filter is dirty then only so much fuel will pass thru it before you run out at the engine, then it has to sit for awhile until more fuel can flow passed it, then it runs again
If so ECT is OK
CEL came on but no codes?
Thats odd
When it does die, does it start right back up?
Or do you have to wait?
If you have to wait, try disconnecting one battery cable
Count to 10 then reconnect it and try starting again
I am thinking Computer may be your issue, unhooking power resets it, but...................
Could just be a dirty fuel filter, not expensive to replace, and should be replaced every 5-7 years or so
If fuel filter is dirty then only so much fuel will pass thru it before you run out at the engine, then it has to sit for awhile until more fuel can flow passed it, then it runs again
I think 110degF was about right. So, when it dies it will turnover but not start until I wait. On a couple of occasions, when it dies, it won’t even turnover, when the ignition is turned, it is completely dead. The CEL seams to be the common denominator. I will try disconnecting the battery today.
Will the CEL come on if it’s a fuel filter?
Can the computer be replaced?
thanks for your help!
Will the CEL come on if it’s a fuel filter?
Can the computer be replaced?
thanks for your help!
No CEL for dirty filter
Its not the computer if starter motor doesn't work, i.e. "when it dies, it won’t even turnover, when the ignition is turned"
There is a "theft" light on the dash, looks like a Padlock, if it every flashes rapidly then starter won't work, the PATS(passive anti-theft system) is activated
Has that ever happened?
Get a Volt meter and test Battery volts engine OFF, should be 12.3 to 12.8volt
Then test battery Volts engine running, should be 14 to 14.6volts
Its not the computer if starter motor doesn't work, i.e. "when it dies, it won’t even turnover, when the ignition is turned"
There is a "theft" light on the dash, looks like a Padlock, if it every flashes rapidly then starter won't work, the PATS(passive anti-theft system) is activated
Has that ever happened?
Get a Volt meter and test Battery volts engine OFF, should be 12.3 to 12.8volt
Then test battery Volts engine running, should be 14 to 14.6volts
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