2002 ranger edge 3.0 I don't know why but I get shaking/vibration when braking. Couple months ago I replaced rotors and pads. It somewhat stopped it but I still felt it sometimes. I'm thinking alignment issues? I've needed one for at least 7 months.(truck pulls to right) I was also thinking drums are warped maybe. Truck has 210k miles so I would think they are toast now. Also sometimes it happens without even braking.

 

Needing an alignment is an obvious problem that should be dealt with first. It may resolve other issues as well.

 

I'm a complete rookie when it comes to alignment aside from knowing they're obviously necessary.
While all vehicles need their wheels in alignment, a "4 wheel alignment" isn't always necessary.
Solid rear axles might never go out of alignment for all I know.

I'm with Grumpa.
If it was my vehicle I'd inspect the front tires to see if they're crookedly worn after 7 questionable months.
Maybe swap the rears to the front before your alignment if the rears are true.

 

Alignment is good to have done but alignment will not cause vibration while braking. At 200K miles check for worn out suspension components as everything is tied together. Check ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, upper and lower control arm bushings and sway bar end link bushings. Also check tire balance and possibly bent wheels that can cause vibration (although not only during braking). If you are still running on original suspension parts its time to refresh, it will make the truck like new again and a pleasure to drive. Ask me how I know. Keep us posted.

 

I'm gonna start with alignment today just because im tired of truck not going straight then I will report back if anything changes.

 

A good alignment tech will check all critical front end components for play and wear before performing an alignment. They you be able to point out if you've got a bad balljoint or tie rod. I'd definitely replace the rear drums and shoes as well. they can warp just like a rotor, much less frequently though. There is also the faint possibility that your front rotors may be warped again too. heavy braking mixed with snow/rain can warp a brand new rotor right out of the box.

 

yea true the front rotors could be warped again. Im mad as hell I bought cheap *** rotors and brake pads from ebay like an idiot...

 

If that's the case, then I believe that its more likely than not that their warped again. I know it costs more, but buying from a brick and mortar such as AutoZone, Advanced, or O'reilly will have you better off in the long run since there's service after the same and the warranties on pads/shoes are lifetime for any defects. You can always do a BOPUS order or a ship to home. They all typically have sales going on for like 15%-30%off.

 

I have an 02 ranger and Their are bearings and seals inside the rotors that have to be pressed inside . Thats another 100$ unless i can use them in the new ones

 

Bearings can be reused so long as they're still good. Seals will need to be replaced. I ran my OE bearings until I did my SAS and they were fine even when i put my lift spindles on.

 

ok look at these rotors and tell me if you see bearings and seal inside them. I think there are because they have ones for 40$ and this one is 70$ so im guessing they have with and without bearings and stuff.

https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-...029/113364_0_0

 

okay, those 2 that you're seeing are 2 different sizes. as with all ranger 2wd rotors, the bearing race is pre-installed into the rotor. You would need to reuse your bearing cones. I'm wanting to say its an A2 and A5 bearing plus the seal.
give me all your truck specs and let me see if I can help.
year
trim package
ect

 

2002 ranger EDGE trim 2wd (rear) Auto trans 3.0 v6

 

Also are the bearing cones supposed to just drop right in or press one side in then the other? Last time i did it, it had to be pressed one side then the other.

 

I found the right size from another forum. I have the one for 70$ the 286.5mm rotor

 

You should not have to press them as they are cones and will tighten up when the spindle nut is tightened.

 

My buddy did it. He said he had to press in the race? Idk what the means

 

I have NEVER had to press in a race into a new rotor. If you have to press the race into the rotor then buy a different rotor.

 

I guess i screwed up and got the wrong rotor or some bs. For some dumb reason the 2002 edge trim always has 2 different sizes of everything. Either wrong bearings and races or wrong rotor. My money is on wrong rotor

 

On my 2005, when I put Duralast Gold brake rotors on i just pulled the old ones off and threw my old inner cone inside, popped the new seal in and then slid it onto the spindle. then i put the outer cone in and threw on the spindle nut/washer and torqued it to spec. No pressing needed. As far as I know an edge was the same from 01-05 as far as suspension components go.

 

What about the bearing race?
I've never seen a race that didn't need pressed in or out. Bearing yes, race/cone no.

 

Race has come preinstalled in any ranger rotor I have ever seen.
https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-...029/113364_0_0
zoom in on the backside of the rotor. The race is already there.

 

Guess it's been awhile since I've done front wheel bearings on a RWD.

 

I purchased new rotors from Rockauto (Raybesto) and they came with races pre pressed. I did purchase new inner and outer bearings and inner seals for my 2003 Ranger XL 2WD coil springs.