I have a 92 3.0 v6 5-speed manual and im about to put a 4,000 lbs tow capacity hitch on it. Im looking to tow other rangers with a tow dolly. I restore older rangers and im going to be using my 92 to pull with. Would it be a good idea to or not a good idea? If i do pull with the 92 what modifications should i do to it to ensure i dont put to much stress on the motor and trans or break anything?

 

You want to use an automatic transmission, they are stronger than manuals, and any automatic should have a 2nd trans cooler, whether you pull loads or not.
1992 Ranger regular cab with 3.73 axle and automatic has tow capacity as 4,200lbs
Extended cab is 3,900lbs

Your manual trans will work but that much weight will be very hard on it, check rear axle ratio, here: https://therangerstation.com/tech_li...le_codes.shtml
3.73 ratio would be lowest you could tow with, 4.10 is best, 3.55 or lower will burn out the clutch
1992 Regular cab with 3.73 and manual trans capacity is 2,700lbs <<<<<<this is YOUR LEGAL LIMIT unless you have extended cab then it's lower
Extended cab 2,400lbs

Tow hitch needs to be well attached to the frame(welded is best), not a bumper hitch for that much weight.

Braking is the bigger deal, any thing over 1,000lbs needs to have trailer brakes, either drag brake that driver controls or tongue brake
Ranger only weighs 3,500lbs soaking wet so that's what it's brakes are setup for, NOT 7,500lbs
So you will be better off with car trailer NOT a dolly

And that much weight behind your Ranger will be illegal so if there is an accident, not even weight related or your fault, your insurance company may "walk away", there is a clause in all insurance policies regarding "operating vehicle in a legal and lawful manner", Overweight gives them an out to refuse any claim

So there is "Can you" and "May you"
You Can tow 4,000lbs load with your 1992 manual transmission 3.0l Ranger, on your own property
You May NOT tow 4,000lbs load with your 1992 manual transmission 3.0l Ranger, on Public roads

So in my opinion not a good idea

Look for an older F150/250 with automatic, already setup for towing

 

Some other tips:

Slightly over inflate the tires. Rear to 40PSI and fronts to 36PSI
Make sure the cooling system is in good condition and the radiator is flushed internally and externally
Run 93 octane (helps prevent pre-ignition when its HOT and under heavy load)
With either manual or automatic I'd delay the shifts. Rev it a bit higher before up shifting. (like 500-700 rpms)
If towing at speeds under 55mph I'd keep OD off. (I did a lot of testing and PCM tuning w/my 06 FX4 and shift points during towing a 3800 LB boat,. Even though the rpms are higher your load is lower which keeps heat down and gives you more reserve power. fuel consumption is about the same at 55mph)
**In an automatic there is something like a 2 second delay for torque convertor lockup. Leaving OD off (55 and below) helps keep tranny fluid temps down because the convertor is already locked up by the time you reach that speed. In my 06 I actually wrote a special towing tune and did a lot of testing with convertor lockup. In my towing tune I had it lock very quickly after the 3-4 shift and I was still not happy with the fluid temp rise and power loss. I wound up commanding shifts at 55mph and having quick lockup. None of which any of you guys who can't tune your own will ever have access to. So just trust me... leave OD off when at speeds around 55
In a tow vehicle I'm a huge fan of using full synthetic fluids.
Brakes.. they must be in top condition and it would be best to have trailer brakes.
Drive easy and slower than everyone else.

IMO using a 3.0L ranger to tow a 4000# load can be done but its pushing it. If you must... the things I list above is what I'd do.

 

https://www.ranger-forums.com/2-9l-3...-chevy-155928/
Here's a thread I made about my 3.0 towing experience, hope it helps.