Pulling engine to fix coolant leak - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 10-13-2009
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Pulling engine to fix coolant leak

As of right now I have 257k on my 3.0 and since the timing chain cover seal has been leaking coolant for a while (about 8 months) I figure I'd best be fixin it soon. I'm still running cross country from house to house on a regular basis and I'd rather NOT get stranded where I don't get cell coverage.

Here's a list of what I have planned to do while the engine is out:

New water pump
New timing chain
Drill out and tap broken bolt on exhaust manifold

The engine does not burn oil and it runs great. What else would you recommend I do while the engine is out?
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Old 10-13-2009
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That's a great 3.0L problem.........

Mine's done that for 3 years now. A small leak that appears when the engine cools down yet hasn't gotten larger. I just notice a few green beads of fluid on the front cross member every now and then.
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Old 10-13-2009
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Pull the cam syncro and check the gear teeth on it.If the gear goes you lose all oil pressure and the engine keeps running.
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Old 10-15-2009
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Originally Posted by OTRtech View Post
Pull the cam syncro and check the gear teeth on it.If the gear goes you lose all oil pressure and the engine keeps running.
I replaced the CMP & CPS roughly 40k ago. I figured it would be cheap insurance since I drive long distance so frequently.
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Old 10-15-2009
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Pour a bottle of stop leak in the radiator and let it run for a while and see what happens. Thats my guess.
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Old 10-16-2009
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Pour a bottle of stop leak in the radiator and let it run for a while and see what happens. Thats my guess.
No offense, but HELL NO. When there's a problem it should be repaired properly the first time.
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Old 10-16-2009
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How about dropping the oil pan and cleaning any junk out of the bottom that may be in there .You prob already was thinking about it anyway.Throw in a rear main seal while you're at it for good measure.
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Old 10-16-2009
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Originally Posted by OTRtech View Post
How about dropping the oil pan and cleaning any junk out of the bottom that may be in there .You prob already was thinking about it anyway.Throw in a rear main seal while you're at it for good measure.
Ken, I have the oil pan off now. I'm VERY surprised at how little gunk is in the pan, especially since I've not changed my oil every 3-5k. I generally change oil when I start to hear a light tick which usually occurs about 8-10k. I reckon since I flush every 30k w/ Seafoam that maybe that's the reason for the pan being so clean??? No matter why it's so clean, I'm very impressed!
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Old 10-16-2009
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Depending on whether or not it is time, replace the plugs since they will be easier to get to. If you want to put on new UD pulleys, electric fan, pull the coolant plugs for a thorough flush. Pressure wash, definitely do the rear main seal, I don't know if there is anything you can do with the torque converter to drain it while it is there in the open, or replacing the clutch if a stick. Rough up the flywheel again.

How do you flush it when you do with Seafoam? They seem to say just add it to the oil and drive normally. I have seen "Motor Flush" too but am hesitant to use it. I think I did it one in another truck and had no problems.
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Old 10-16-2009
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Stay away from "Motor Flush".I used it in two engines and it did more harm than good.
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Old 10-16-2009
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Originally Posted by Zs02Edge View Post
Ken, I have the oil pan off now. I'm VERY surprised at how little gunk is in the pan, especially since I've not changed my oil every 3-5k. I generally change oil when I start to hear a light tick which usually occurs about 8-10k. I reckon since I flush every 30k w/ Seafoam that maybe that's the reason for the pan being so clean??? No matter why it's so clean, I'm very impressed!

What oil and filter combo have you been using ?

And I would still pull the cam syncro just to check it.Some have failed after as little as 20K.
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Old 10-16-2009
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No offense, but HELL NO. When there's a problem it should be repaired properly the first time.
It was just as guess... Please don't go mid-evil on me... lol
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Old 10-17-2009
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Quote:
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What oil and filter combo have you been using ?

And I would still pull the cam syncro just to check it.Some have failed after as little as 20K.
Motorcraft filter and Motorcraft 5w20 for the first 100k and have been using 5w30 since.

Synchro looks as good now as it did when I put it in. Now I have to find my tool to put it back in and it's probably at my place in WA! lol

Although I didn't want to, I went ahead and replaced the rear main seal.
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Old 10-17-2009
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id do a leak down test couldnt hurt anything
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Old 10-17-2009
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Originally Posted by Zs02Edge View Post

Synchro looks as good now as it did when I put it in. Now I have to find my tool to put it back in and it's probably at my place in WA! lol
.
It may take a while to search for , but I do remember someone on here posted how to do it without the tool.
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Old 10-18-2009
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Originally Posted by Zs02Edge View Post
No offense, but HELL NO. When there's a problem it should be repaired properly the first time.
Yeah, stuff like Stop Leak and belt dressing are band-aid fixes......not to mention crap. Like Z-Max, it's all snake oil and adds garbage to your systems.
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Old 10-19-2009
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Finished up the engine install this afternoon and what a difference a new timing chain makes! It wouldn't surprise me if fixing the exhaust manifold leak helped too. I reckon I should be good to go for another 250k now.
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