Check the EGR valve itself first before spending any money.
Do you have a vacuum pump ?

 

sorry it took so long to reply,crazy long work hours

sorry to say jeff no i dont, and the reason i ask about warping the flange was after i installed the brass compression fitting on the tube , the tube wouldnt mate back up to the egr so i removed the egr from the manifold, installed loose on the tube ,and used brute force to bolt it back to the manifold! lol

 

ok , up date, havent had much time or money to work on my lil truck let alone drive it! (thank god for my scooter) but as Christmas is next weekend and i have a 5 hour drive one way ahead of me, i went to the local u pull it place and wow i found a brand new dpfe still in the box in the glove box of a ranger i was lookin at for other parts! took off early today from work to spend the 15 miniuts to install it and walah its fixed!!!!!!!!!!! now this 5 hour drive will shake the bugs out hopefully

and for the original reason for the post the evap purge solinoid code is intermittent, very random as to when it shows, have the other "aka the expensive one" on the way , got it real cheap on ebay will replace when code shows up

thanks for the help jeff!

 

You're welcome, although I would have to go through the thread to find out exactly what helped...
Did you just pocket the DPFE sensor or were an honest guy... He he...

 

i was honest, they said they could not charge for items found in the vehicle lol i got lucky! :)

 

another update it threw code p1443 and a new code p1131 the first thing i replaced i found out was a thermocouple of some sort so i should have replaced the second thing in line to canister, i have the part and going to replace it in a few miniuts and hopefully it clears the o2 lean code. just drove 356 mile trip and got 16 mpg ugggg! i lost 5mpg!

 

what happen if I direct connect line fuel vapor of tank to the engine intake?

 

You would create high negative pressure in the fuel tank, which could effect fuel flow OUT of the tank, and would most likely cause a higher idle as it would act like a vacuum leak depending on how well the gas tank was sealed

If you want to do something like that then use Ported Vacuum, automakers used that for many many years for the EVAP system with just a charcoal canister

Regular vacuum is what's between the throttle plate and the valves(in the heads), 18-21" at idle
Ported vacuum is whats between throttle plate and the air cleaner, its almost 0" at idle then goes up as you open the throttle, but never goes as high as regular vacuum

Most if not all throttle bodies have 1 or 2 Ported Vacuum ports on the throttle body, in front of throttle plate where the large air tube connects to engine
Hook one of those ports directly to the gas tank, you can use a "T" if the port is being used
Hooking it to the charcoal canister would be better if its still usable, but not required

Gas fumes are still sucked into the engine to be burned with either system

This, of course, would not prevent or get rid of any EVAP codes