Hey guys little help here and some opinion.
does anyone know how to get that air bubble out of that top radiator hose where it curves up over the alternator ? every time you open the system up and refill it you get a big air bubble in that radiator hose. It eventually works its self out but you have to live with it trying to overheat a little for a couple three days. Also I put a new thermostat in today and I noticed a little corrosion on the crimps where the tank connects to the core near the bottom radiator hose so I’m looking to replace that radiator going to go with a two row plastic or a three row all aluminum. Would that three row be overkill and would it hurt anything if it was?

I purchased a new cam Synchronizer couple of weeks back and it was one of those closeout deals from Carquest can’t send it back and it turns out it’s a Step style plug but the compatibility checker says it fits a 3.0 with Vin code U 1997 Model. Advance auto parts does not even list a non-step style and it doesn’t mention that this one is a step style so does anyone know are all the 97 3.0 Vulcans vin code U are step style or not? I guess you could take a Dremel tool and rout that step out I read somewhere that the non-step style would work on either. I know I can pull my plug and check it but that thing is so hard to get to and I am ancient. finally, does anyone know of a source for a nice set of valve covers for the Vulcan I’ve got to replace my gaskets thought a little upgrade might be in order but I can’t find any... lots of replies here I need some help all replies will be appreciated thanks in advance
Larry

 

Ford used a 3 wire(1998 and earlier) and 2 wire(1999 and up) Cam sensors, not interchangeable, I didn't know there were different connectors pre-1998?


Except for the 2.3l Duratec Rangers which used Degas, all Rangers used an Overflow type cooling system which is self-purging of air

Remove 1 heater hose at the firewall and fill radiator until coolant starts to come of of the hose, put hose back on
You have got most of the air out now
Start engine, rad cap off, top up rad if level drops
Put cap back on
Make sure overflow tank coolant level is at COLD mark

Drive vehicle for 15+ minutes, up hills if possible or at higher speeds, you want engine to get hotter
Any air left in the system will end up at the top of radiator, and rad cap will open once coolant has expanded enough and any air will be purged into overflow tank and bubble to the top
Then let engine cool down completely, as the hot coolant shrinks the pressure in the radiator will drop to -1psi this will cause the smaller valve in rad cap to be pulled open, SUCKING back in coolant from overflow tank
Once engine is cold again, open rad cap, should be full to the top, NO AIR, if there is air then you have a leak in the cooling system or in the overflow hose and it SUCKED back in air from the leak or hose, instead of coolant

If upper rad hose ever shows signs of collapsing that means the smaller valve in rad cap is bad, replace cap, OR......the overflow tank/hose is clogged up
Make sure to flush out the overflow tank and hose when you replace coolant


Air in the upper rad hose will be purged IF...........it matters in coolant flow, it would never cause overheating, air in the upper rad hose can mean you have a coolant leak so air is being sucked in when engine is cooling down, and that air would end up in upper rad hose and radiator

 

I did as you said yesterday and took the heater hose loose and filled it till ran out the hose. I ran down the road a few miles then came home and parked it overnight this morning the tank was nearly empty and the radiator was full all appears to be good now I appreciate that response because I didn’t know some of what you was writing about. now I am much smarter & The heater is very hot ...
thank you very much Ron...
Larry

ps: I still think I’m going to replace the radiator with a two core at least. do you like the plastic better than the aluminum? there’s not a whole Lotta difference in price.
also I unplugged my cam sensor and plugged it in the new sensor. It fit. so apparently you’re right 97 back must use the step style plug.

 

I assume you have a manual trans so single core radiator
The dual core rad was for automatics and they use a shallower shroud, not as deep, so you will need one of those from a wrecking yard, but pretty easy to find, most Ranger were automatics

Also the lower rad hose was different when I switched over my 1994 manual trans ranger to dual core, so new one of those as well
Get the new rad first then have a look, it might not be that way in 1997

 

I’m sorry right off forgotten so I have an automatic. A nineteen hundred dollar automatic.
Larry

 

Yes, it do cost a bit to have them rebuilt, lol

So you already have a dual core radiator

 

Nope. It’s a single. Looks fairly recent like maybe 2-3 years. Did automatics have dual cores?

larry

 

Yes, automatics all had dual core radiators