2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech General discussion of 2.9L and 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger engines.

Revs while shfting

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Old 09-10-2010
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Revs while shfting

So this has happened twice now I have a 3.0 that is a five speed and when I get into the truck when the engine s still a little warm the temp was in the low 70's each time if I go over 3000rpm's and then push in the clutch to shift the engine stays at 3000 or more rpm's for about 5 seconds and then it will drop down to idle. It just sits there at the same rpm range. As I said this has only happened twice now but both within the last month and I'm just wondering if there is a problem coming down the road or if anyone has had this problem as well. I also don't know if this classifies as engine or drivetrain since it does it. I appreciate any input on this. Thank you
 
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my 4.0 5 spd does this to me too....
 
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Old 09-10-2010
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yeah its a little unnerving since my last truck the 94 2.3 liter never did anything like that
 
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Old 09-10-2010
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check the iac and it could be a possible pcm.
 
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Old 09-11-2010
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That only happens to me when I have the A/C on...
 
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Old 09-11-2010
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mine used to do it, checked for vacuum leaks and found none, replaced the IAC and its gone
 
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IAC??? how and where is it?
 
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The IAC on the rangers 3.0-4.0 are one of many overlooked items in the engine compartment, There is a write-up somewhere that shows you how to clean it, Most have cleaned them with carb cleaner of some sort, The problem is that the manufacture has a little tag on the IAC that says do not clean, Now I'm not saying that they are always right as I feel it should be cleaned so that the life of the part is extended.

Okay now I don't agree with the carb cleaner as I feel it will do more damage to the part, Their is a film of (forgot what its called) inside the IAC, and harsh sprays can eat at it and cause it to gone for good, I say take it out and clean it with regular soap and water, The IAC will have built up carbon on the inside of the walls over time and with just soap and water should do the job.

Here are some pics of the IAC, But this is a 3.0 engine, you application might be different, I'm not sure, but should be the same.



and a pic of the entire engine and its location

 
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Old 09-11-2010
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Sounds excellent I will be taking that off of my truck tomorrow and scrubbing it down I will let you all know how it goes.
 
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Old 09-12-2010
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Good please do, remember soap and water and don't scrub just wash it and wipe inside gently.
 
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Old 09-12-2010
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when you clean it hold it with the round motor facing up so no liquid gets in the motor. spray it out with carb clean and a toothbrush
 
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Originally Posted by Toreador4x4
when you clean it hold it with the round motor facing up so no liquid gets in the motor. spray it out with carb clean and a toothbrush
no cleaning it while still attached to the motor, remove it and clean, and no carb cleaner, soap and water will do it, ask me how i know.
 
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Old 09-12-2010
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how do you remove it from the motor? it has a pressed ring that holds the electric motor to the actual valve?

ask me how i know how to clean these, i am a tech at a ford dealer and i clean them all the time. cleaning them this way for 6 years and havent had a problem
 
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Old 09-12-2010
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i had a problem like this, rough idle and when you push in the clutch the rpm stays up near 3000. I replaced the TPS (throtle position sensor) and no more problems. hope this helps.
 
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not all of them attach this way, Im a retired mechanical engineer, and have built/torn down/rebuilt and modified all sorts of engines over the years, and I too have done this my way for over 25yrs with no problems as well. well I guess he can do it the way he feels comfortable with. we are just passing information and hopes he can diagnose. Good Luck Danger101

Originally Posted by Toreador4x4
how do you remove it from the motor? it has a pressed ring that holds the electric motor to the actual valve?

ask me how i know how to clean these, i am a tech at a ford dealer and i clean them all the time. cleaning them this way for 6 years and havent had a problem
 
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Old 09-13-2010
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on these style i have just always held them with the motor up so nothing drips down into it when cleaning it. i know there is supposed to be a seal inside that separates the electric motor from the actual valve but as a precaution i hold them this way
 
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yea i guess if you are careful it can be done that way, I just wish more folks would learn to DIY things sometimes rather than have the dealer do it for them, these engine are fairly easy to work on and when diagnosed, they can last a very long time.
 
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Old 09-13-2010
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Thank you all very much I took it out and cleaned it with some carb cleaner holding the motor up and put it back on hopefully it will resolve any issues. Once again thank you all for your responses.
 
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goodstuff, let us know how it goes.
 
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Old 09-14-2010
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THIS IS FOR FUTURE REFERENCE,HERE IS THE WRITE UP, sorry for the caps

http://www.********************/engi...r-control.html
 
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Old 09-14-2010
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Originally Posted by 2001fordranger
FYI - links to that site are blocked at R-F.
 
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oh wow! did not know that. thanks for the heads up.
 
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