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2006 Ford ranger 3.0l STX 2wd manual
Hey, so I recently replaced the instrument gauge cluster bulbs in my truck, and ever since, the tachometer would be sticking.
When I would start the truck, it would work normal for a couple of minutes, but as I keep shifting up and down, the odometer would creep higher. For example I would sit at a stop light and my truck would say it’s idling at 1,700 rpm when it’s really idling at 750rpm (normal) then the next couple of lights down, it would say it’s idling at 3,100 rpm, and so forth. The longer I drive the higher the gauge climbs. The tachometer will stay at (example) 3,100rpm or which ever when I shut my truck off completely. If I let it sit for 5+ minutes turned off, when I restart my truck it will reset back to normal, then it will continue with sticking as I drive again.
I understand I must have fluffed it up somehow when I replaced the dash lights, but I didn’t mess with it at all.
Anyways, is there a way to reset my tachometer or is it toast?
Below pictures are examples
2004 and up Rangers used digital clusters so hard to swap out, just FYI
Tachometer was still analog though, gets its signal from pin 48 of Computer, same tan/yellow wire used for many many years in Fords, lol
So you could try a computer reset, using OBD2 reader, or just unhook Negative battery cable for 5 min, then hook it back up
Key OFF
Push down on Trip Reset button and hold it down
Turn key on, engine off
Keep holding button until "test" shows up in odometer display
Release button
Gauges should do a full sweep<<<this should tell you if needle is sticking, or if its an electrical issue
There are other test you can do
Key off exits Test Mode, and you can do that at any time
Thanks for the info.
Sadly I tried and I don’t think it has the Cluster test mode. I also tried unhooking the battery for a bit, didn’t change or fix anything.
This morning I’m going to take the dash apart again this morning and see if there’s anything physically wrong with it.
Well after I took it apart, I found out the problem. The thin plastic face piece with the tach numbers on them was riding up on the shaft of the tach needle. I adjusted it to make sure the plastic was flat and so far the tach is working normally.
