Hello, I have a 2000 FORD Ranger with a 3.0 Vulcan V6 unfortunately I seem to have a loud knocking sound coming from the bottom of the motor. So quickly this is the back story, I had been having some issues with my truck driving really rough, at idle it would either idle extremely high let's say 2200 rpm, or barely idle at around 700 rpm. So first my thought was it could be a vacuum leak so I checked to make sure no lines were unplugged or broken. After checking I found no culprit for my issue so I got a code reader, I checked my codes and was given a code for my Cam Synchronizer. So I replaced my less than 2 years ago and did it according to the instructions with the exception of 1 thing, I didn't set piston 1 to TDC. So I did some reading and decided to pull the spark plug out of cylinder 1 and insert a screwdriver into the cylinder as a feeler gauge. I then went under the truck and rotated the crank with a ratchet. I got to a point in the crank rotating that I hit a ton of resistance which in my mind I thought was the compression stroke so I pushed through. So I'm an idiot and what I thought was the compression stroke was the screwdriver getting caught between the piston and the top of the cylinder head. So the screwdriver got snapped off in the side of the cylinder, it was stuck between the piston so I could retrieve it with a magnet. Unfortanly there must have been a fragment that remained in the cylinder because once I had everything back together and fired the motor I heard what sounded like a spun bearing. Now here is my question I get the fragment in the cylinder possibly making a noise however I could not see that problem causing a spun bearing. My truck sounded like a diesel which I thought initially was valve train but after further inspection the rods looked good and there was no excess play in the rockers. Any ideas of what I did or what this could be would be greatly appreciated.

 

Welcome to the forum

If you turned a cylinders piston thru TDC with a metal piece between head and top of piston then you either broke the piston or bent the Connecting Rod, not pushrod
The knock is most likely the connecting rod or piston's connection to the connecting rod
And one valve in that cylinder could be bent as well, depends on which TDC #1 was on, compression or exhaust, there are 2

Engine will need to be pulled out in any case so Valve is a moot point

If you look for another engine it needs to be 1999-2003 or 2007/2008
2004-2006 3.0l Vulcans can have valve issues

 

Thank you for your response, I have located a 3.0 Vulcan that was verified to work based off of my VIN number. It has a 94k and it's only 1300 bucks, sucks that I tried to fix a problem and created a much bigger problem for myself. Rebuilding this specific motor myself would be a lot of time and money.

 

Sounds like a good deal

3.0l Vulcan came in Gas Only and Flex Fuel versions in Rangers
This was mainly a computer issue, although internally the head cavity shapes were different, but not a big deal in a swap
What is a big deal are the Fuel Injector sizes, in 2000 the flex fuel engines had larger injectors, if used with a Gas Only computer you will get rough running and Rich Codes because injectors are too big, same if you used 2001-2008 3.0l injector sizes
To avoid this, swap over your current injectors to the newer engine regardless of its year or fuel type status

3.0l Vulcan has some common exterior issues, there are one or two metal coolant elbows at the top front of the engine, they like to rust out, inspect them
The timing chain cover has two coolant passages thru it from water pump to block, common coolant leak point if gasket fails

Any engine should have the rear main seal changed when its exposed, its a cheap part but no access to change it with transmission in place

Cam Synchronizer's last 80-100k miles on the 3.0ls, and you have a new one on your current 3.0l, so.................swap it out
And easier to install with engine out

 

So update, unfortunately, the motor I found was bought sometime last week. I'm stuck in the current situation where I can't find a replacement motor at the moment. I have found one but it would have to be shipped and after the cost of the core plus shipping and tax it would be way more than I am able to spend. Furthermore, the mileage on that motor is 148k, so it might be at the end of its days anyway. This past weekend with the intention of replacing the motor I pulled my old motor out and it's in my shop. So my question is what would you suggest doing if getting a replacement motor is not an option? I can't afford a remanufactured long block at 2400 and I have never rebuilt a motor before however I'm very mechanically inclined. I could go on a 10 hour rant about how there are no used motors the fact that they are overpriced with high miles and that people are smoking crack for what they want for used vehicles but I won't. This is my daily driver so unfortunately time is not a luxury and I can't afford a new or used vehicle.

 

Good place to look for any used parts here: https://www.car-part.com/
2000
Ford Ranger
Engine
USA? or Canada?
Sort by ditance
YOUR Zip or postal code
SEARCH

New window opens, select what engine you need
I would avoid 2004-2006 3.0ls if they come up, can have head issues