Been lurking around for a while reading some good info for a 1993 Ranger 3.0L 2WD son picked up for last year of high school. finally registered so i could ask....what the heck is this part? thought it was a vacuum resovoir but don't think so since it appears the EGR hose is routed to it





asking because the thin vacuum hose to it is shot and in a few pieces. seems to be attached to some kind of junction block for vacuum hoses, and the egr line also runs to that block. we replaced the entire dizzy due to bad gear and the rigid hose broke trying to wiggle around getting the dizzy lockdown bolt in. hose to this appears to blow rather than suck.

truck runs great but now getting an egr flow low code and this is the only thing i can point to right now. if still have code after this fix then will go to next step but would like to fix this first


we have a msg code and a few other things we need to address later and will probably ask for help there too at some since we're stumped. but right now trying to address KOEO codes first.

And any idea how to post an image without it being this big? made the post from my phone and didnt see an option to downsize it
thanks!

 

That's the Vacuum reservoir and it is used by the EGR system

Engine vacuum is highest at idle or at any steady RPM(cruising) but drops to almost 0 when accelerating
A vacuum reservoir with a check valve holds the highest vacuum pressure so creates a stable vacuum pressure
You have the same setup on your power brakes, it has its own vacuum reservoir and check valve, in the "booster"(big round thing, lol)

EGR system uses an electric air/vacuum valve(modulator) operated by the computer to send vacuum to the EGR valve to open it a little or a lot based on engine load
So it needs a stable vacuum source or there would be no control of EGR Valve

Vacuum reservoir--------------/---(stable vacuum)Check valve(varying vacuum)---------------------------------intake manifold(vacuum source)
EGR valve(modulator)--------/

The thing with several vacuum lines attached is probably a check valve and "T"(splitter) combo unit, so hoses connected do need to be on correct ports
One will be for the intake connection, and should be obvious, on its own
The other ports will be connected together inside the unit, so all connected to, and share, the reservoir

 

Ron

thanks! can't tell you enough how much info you've posted on here has helped us with many minor things since we've picked this little gem (IMO) up.

And i feel a little stupid. Deep inside i was thinking maybe a reservoir but google searches turned up what i used to see back in the day...a round-ish ball :-) Admittedly, it's been at least 20 yrs since i touched anything with a vacuum line / system. I turn wrenches on my diesels but feel so stupid when it comes to this older stuff now

With respect to clearing codes, is it just a matter of disconnecting the - batt cable for 10 minutes or so? never used scanner prior to ODB-II

R/

 

Thank you :)

The 1995 and up Rangers have the larger vacuum ball because they use Vacuum "motors"(that's what they are called, lol) to control the Vents, air flow directions, in the cab, i.e. defrost, panel, floor

And some car makers used that type of system in earlier years, so will also have the larger vacuum reservoir
And even vacuum controlled hidden headlights, and vacuum control wiper covers, so yes, the larger "*****" were in many models

1994 and earlier Rangers have Slider Vent controls in the cab, they use cables, so just needed the smaller vacuum reservoir for EGR

 

Awesome explanation. Thanks again!

Any idea on a part number for this thing? I've pulled it off but i can't find a PN that was stamped during the mold process. If there was a sticker on it, its long long gone. Been Googling images and found nothing that looks like it other than the typical round ball type.

 

So the reservoir is cracked?
Lines can be replaced with regular rubber vacuum hose

Outside of a wrecking yard there won't be stock replacement

Crown automotive has similar style CWA-52004366
8.75" in length and has a dia. of 4.25" not sure if it will fit, but on sale its $10, $20 list

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cwa-52004366

 

no the reservoir isn't cracked. just the thin line from it to the T it connects littlerally crumbled apart as we were replacing the dizzy.

since it wasn't a round ball type reservoir i wasn't sure what the part was / is so wasn't sure if that little line was some kind of 'special' hose. i assume it's not flexible cause it old as heck 😎

but now that i know its a vac line and that's a reservoir, going to parts house to get some small rubber hose and i think we should be good.

gotta a check engine light since we replaced the dizzy. one is for MAF voltage low ( we started without it plugged in and intake tube removed) and low egr flow (which i'm thinking is because of this broke hose). the egr vac line runs to the T that is connected to the reservoir. hence my assumption.

prior to replacing the dizzy a once in a blue moon CEL but not steady. pulled codes and i believe it was all good according to book. got 111, 10, 111 and that was KOEO so didn't do follow on. prolly should have. but learning this old stuff. :-)

have the batt disconnected now as based on reading here only way to clear codes. ?

 

Yes, disconnecting battery for 5min or so will clear all the saved codes, on 1995 and new Rangers that will set P1000 code which will go away on its own after 2 or 3 drive cycles(heat up and cool down is 1 drive cycle)

 

thanks again! Yea, it kicked out a 512 first time i scanned after re-connecting - cable. Believe that was KAM. After new vacuum line, ran it again and it came back 111, 10, 111 and the CEL is out. Haven't run the follow on tests in the book yet as i'm still reading and trying to get my head wrapped around what they do.

Not really sure what the prior owner has or hasn't done, but it was taken care of pretty well with 138k on the clock. I know it sat for about 10 years after his father passed away. Idles great and blows cold cold air. and seems to run pretty good as well.

List of other things i need to tackle are leaky oil level sensor on the side of the pan (i hope). Looks like blow back to the bell housing so i don't think (i hope) a leaky rear seal. fan blower switch only works on High. scared to death of pulling the dash bezel off at the moment as im sure 30 yo clips are gonna go south :-) Headliner looks like 6 drunk cats had a party. got new material in for that. aside from that, a little rust on the tail gate and back of bed (placed crab pots so saltwater did a number), but good enough. and finally the oil pressure gauge. for the most part it reads mid-range. every now and then it wiggles between 0 and middle. top end sounds great so pretty sure oil pressure is ok and things are getting lubricated. And only happens if idle and NO AC on, and that's very very random. based on reading here either a bad / loose wire to the sender, bad sender, or possibly junk up there. think i'll remove the sensor and the main spark wire and crank it to see if any junk comes out. tonight we're draining a quart of oil and adding a quart of motor flush then a full oil change to follow. I'm sure i'll posting asking from info and help on some of this stuff in the future

Never really been a ford guy (prefer anything with a Cummins over any gasser) but have to admit its been a fun truck to tinker with so far and reminds of early on days turning wrenches on gassers in the 80's :-)

Again, thanks for the info and insight!