2019+ Ford Ranger Discussion General discussion of the new 2019 Ford Ranger

Rear drum brakes sticking in one direction.

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Old Nov 9, 2019
  #1  
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Rear drum brakes sticking in one direction.

I have been battling with my passenger side rear brakes it locks up when moving forward but not in reverse. I replaced the shoes and drums it’s still sticking. The wheel cylinder is not leaking and engages with the brakes on. Any thoughts I need this truck for work ASAP.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2019
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Do you have the shoes on correctly ?

The one with less friction material faces the front of the vehicle.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2019
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Yes. I’ll double check the shoe with more material is in the back.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2019
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Are your ebrakes adjusted properly and freely moving?
 
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Old Nov 9, 2019
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E brakes seem fine. Sometimes the wheel spins freely other times it binds. I reused all of the old hardware all the springs they seemed tight. Should I buy a new hardware kit? don’t know if these pictures help but I’m stumped.

 
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Old Nov 9, 2019
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Looks pretty good to me. Never hurts to change the springs since they can fatigue, but yours look pretty good.

I mentioned the ebrake since I had a similar issue where I kept burning up the passenger rear drum and found it was a frozen ebrake cable. I never even used them but it was somehow messing up the adjustment. I tried releasing the frozen side several times and it didn't seem like it was too tight or dragging constantly. I finally replaced the cable and all good now.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2019
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Rear brakes lock going forward but just slow you down going backwards, just FYI, i.e. you CAN backup with e-brake on but can't go forward

So the forward/backward thing is not really a clue, it just means that side is not releasing after brakes are applied sometimes

Have a look at the Flex line on the rear axle, and the splitter
 
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Old Nov 9, 2019
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Thanks for the explaination. I will double check the ebrake, and check the flex line and splitter in the morning. I will say I had to back the star adjuster all the way to get the drum to go on. Then when trying to adjust it the drum immediately binds.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2019
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Yes, you should have adjuster all the way in as far as it will go.
Then put on drum
Then hold out e-brake release and pump the pedal until it feels tight, this spins Star wheel until its adjusted correctly on both sides, they adjust separately but to the correct spot on each side

Leave pedal up, no e-brake, then check to see if drum can spin OK, if not then something in that side is not right

Do NOT adjust Star wheel to tighten brakes, that access hole is just to release stuck or worn down shoes, to loosen brakes
 
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Old Nov 9, 2019
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Will do. I’ll try it first thing in the morning. Thank you
 
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Old Nov 9, 2019
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Icon14

Originally Posted by RonD
Yes, you should have adjuster all the way in as far as it will go.
Then put on drum
Then hold out e-brake release and pump the pedal until it feels tight, this spins Star wheel until its adjusted correctly on both sides, they adjust separately but to the correct spot on each side

Leave pedal up, no e-brake, then check to see if drum can spin OK, if not then something in that side is not right

Do NOT adjust Star wheel to tighten brakes, that access hole is just to release stuck or worn down shoes, to loosen brakes

Awesome advice!!!
 
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Old Nov 10, 2019
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I tried it with same result. I spun the drum 3/4 of a turn perfectly fine then it randomly binds. It feels like it’s out of round or something . Brand new drums and shoes. This is exactly what was happening with the old shoes. Looks like I’m renting a truck for the day. Everything works exactly as it should on the driver side.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2019
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Originally Posted by 04rustbucket
I tried it with same result. I spun the drum 3/4 of a turn perfectly fine then it randomly binds. It feels like it’s out of round or something . Brand new drums and shoes. This is exactly what was happening with the old shoes. Looks like I’m renting a truck for the day. Everything works exactly as it should on the driver side.
Since it did this with the old drums, then probably not the out of round issue. I have to admit the last time I changed my drums I went through a few before I found a truly round one. Pretty sure mine are Centric now. Had luck with Raybestos on another vehicle but got a bad set for the Ranger. I seem to have better luck with riveted shoes too. Not sure why.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2019
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I’m having the same exact problem that I’m replacing the old drums and shoes for. Something isn’t right and I can’t figure it out. Driver side the drum went on smoothly passenger I have to fight with it.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2019
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I doubt its a problem but if you haven't bled the wheel cylinder lately, I'd do that too. Like Ron said, check the flex line above the diff. If it collapses or partially collapses then it may set but the brakes won't release right. Seems odd that it would only be one though.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2019
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Another test is to pump the regular brake pedal, engine on so power brake assit
Shut off engine
Loosen bleeder valve on wheel cylinder
If there is a Squirt of fluid then you have pressure in the system and there should be NONE, with no foot on brake pedal

The brake shoes sit on a couple of "pads" on the dust cover/rear plate, you can put a dab of high temp lube on these, so shoes can move out and in and stay centered

You should be able to move the shoes, as a unit, side to side after every thing is installed, they "float" inside the drum
 
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Old Nov 10, 2019
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Ok I’ll give that a try. I just tried to put the ebrake on then release now the drum is locked back on can’t move it or get it off I have to go to work so I’ll have to deal with it later. The driver side works fine though.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2019
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Hmmm, I'm still thinking ebrake cable issue. Sounds just like mine was. Not saying it makes sense but that's the way mine acted exactly.

May have to disassemble and see if the cable moves freely by hand. Like I said before, I knew mine was sticky so I never used it but it still caused issues.

If you have to remove the cable from the backing plate, disconnect from the cable on the brake lever and slide a 10mm or 3/8" box end over the end. Use this to compress the "catch" and slide the whole thing out of the backing plate. You may be able to soak it but the passenger side takes that circuitous route and seem prone to corrosion inside the sheath.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2019
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I

Thank you Guys Im going to check it first thing in the morning .
 
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Old Nov 10, 2019
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Pretty sure it’s the e brake cable. I can barely moved it. I also found a few spots where the sheathing Is cracked and the metal cable is exposed.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2019
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Originally Posted by 04rustbucket
Pretty sure it’s the e brake cable. I can barely moved it. I also found a few spots where the sheathing Is cracked and the metal cable is exposed.
Hopefully that's the issue. Even if it doesn't fix your original problem at least that will be repaired.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2019
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Just replaced the e brake cable and it’s fixed! Thank you guys.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2019
  #23  
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Awesome! Glad you sorted it out.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2019
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Good work
 
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Old Nov 12, 2019
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Thanks again for the help.I had this truck since May this is the first time I actually got it drivable I have been chasing a new issue everytime I touch it.
 
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