02 Ranger - AC blowing cool, not cold after charge
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Joined: Aug 2018
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From: Westport, MA
02 Ranger - AC blowing cool, not cold after charge
Hello folks, brand new to the forum. Hoping this is the right forum for this issue. If not, my sincere apologies...
Just bought my very first truck, an 02 Ranger XLT.
Guy told me the AC worked but needed a charge. The compressor fired up and cycled so I took his word for it.
I hooked up a can of AC Pro and the system immediately appeared to be fully pressurized (green zone), according to the dial gauge. So, I added the can and topped it off.
The AC now blows somewhat cool but nowhere close to cold. More like a cool breeze.
Any tips or ideas for things to check? Plenty of airflow blowing into the cabin from the vents. I can hear the compressor Cycling, even see condensation below the truck after letting it run for a bit. I’m afraid of over-pressurizing the System by adding a second can because I left it in the yellow zone (per the gauge).
I appreciate any any feedback or I site.
Just bought my very first truck, an 02 Ranger XLT.
Guy told me the AC worked but needed a charge. The compressor fired up and cycled so I took his word for it.
I hooked up a can of AC Pro and the system immediately appeared to be fully pressurized (green zone), according to the dial gauge. So, I added the can and topped it off.
The AC now blows somewhat cool but nowhere close to cold. More like a cool breeze.
Any tips or ideas for things to check? Plenty of airflow blowing into the cabin from the vents. I can hear the compressor Cycling, even see condensation below the truck after letting it run for a bit. I’m afraid of over-pressurizing the System by adding a second can because I left it in the yellow zone (per the gauge).
I appreciate any any feedback or I site.
Welcome to the forum
When AC is on compressor should stay on, not cycle.
AC system has two pressure switches, high pressure and low pressure switches
If AC system get a blockage, or over filled, the high pressure switch will open turning off Compressor until pressure drops down a bit, then compressor will come on again until pressure gets high again.
Low pressure switch will open if there is not enough refrigerant(fluid) in the system.
The way AC works, any AC including refrigerators and freezers, is it compresses a fluid, in this case r134a, as it does this the fluid gets VERY HOT and pressure gets very high,
it passes thru a condenser, in front of your radiator, to make sure it stays a fluid and not a gas/vapor
and then it goes to Receiver/drier where it is held in reserve and any moister is removed,
it then goes to an Expansion Valve, this releases most of the pressure from the refrigerant and allows it to "expand" from previous compressed state, this causes rapid cooling of the refrigerant
and then it goes thru Evaporator, this is what the blower fan sends air thru to cool the cab, its also where the condensation is formed that drips on the ground
The now low pressure refrigerant then goes back to the compressor, to start its trip all over again.
If you have ever had an air compressor you will know compressor itself gets very hot and tank gets warm, but when you release the compressed air the hose and air tool gets very cold, and WET if you don't have a drier on the hose, lol.
Same thing with AC only the fluid used is better than air for the cooling side.
Diagram here: https://www.autozone.com/images/MEDI...gram-right.jpg
Pretty simple system
Outside temp has a direct effect on what Pressure you should see on the two AC sides, high and low sides
Chart here: http://acprocold.com/wp-content/uplo...rt-33776F1.jpg
You don't have a pressure set of gauges, so you can't say what should be done, and no one here can say either, the pressure numbers matter.
If you want, just add more refrigerant, if there is too much then high pressure switch will shut off the compressor.
If you can get a set of AC gauges then use the chart above and then look here: http://acprocold.com/wp-content/uplo...c1-300x196.jpg
When AC is on compressor should stay on, not cycle.
AC system has two pressure switches, high pressure and low pressure switches
If AC system get a blockage, or over filled, the high pressure switch will open turning off Compressor until pressure drops down a bit, then compressor will come on again until pressure gets high again.
Low pressure switch will open if there is not enough refrigerant(fluid) in the system.
The way AC works, any AC including refrigerators and freezers, is it compresses a fluid, in this case r134a, as it does this the fluid gets VERY HOT and pressure gets very high,
it passes thru a condenser, in front of your radiator, to make sure it stays a fluid and not a gas/vapor
and then it goes to Receiver/drier where it is held in reserve and any moister is removed,
it then goes to an Expansion Valve, this releases most of the pressure from the refrigerant and allows it to "expand" from previous compressed state, this causes rapid cooling of the refrigerant
and then it goes thru Evaporator, this is what the blower fan sends air thru to cool the cab, its also where the condensation is formed that drips on the ground
The now low pressure refrigerant then goes back to the compressor, to start its trip all over again.
If you have ever had an air compressor you will know compressor itself gets very hot and tank gets warm, but when you release the compressed air the hose and air tool gets very cold, and WET if you don't have a drier on the hose, lol.
Same thing with AC only the fluid used is better than air for the cooling side.
Diagram here: https://www.autozone.com/images/MEDI...gram-right.jpg
Pretty simple system
Outside temp has a direct effect on what Pressure you should see on the two AC sides, high and low sides
Chart here: http://acprocold.com/wp-content/uplo...rt-33776F1.jpg
You don't have a pressure set of gauges, so you can't say what should be done, and no one here can say either, the pressure numbers matter.
If you want, just add more refrigerant, if there is too much then high pressure switch will shut off the compressor.
If you can get a set of AC gauges then use the chart above and then look here: http://acprocold.com/wp-content/uplo...c1-300x196.jpg
Last edited by RonD; Aug 11, 2018 at 05:11 PM.
Also check out some of the Videos on Automotive AC servicing
Google: automotive AC service video
Lots of detailed How-tos and What-ifs on problems with pressure readings and what they mean
Google: automotive AC service video
Lots of detailed How-tos and What-ifs on problems with pressure readings and what they mean
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Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 1,216
Likes: 184
From: Hackensack, Nj
What the fix was depends on what was wrong with the system.
The outline posted by RodD is good stuff.
However, a couple of things are involved with a true repair.
One is threshold. I was told by an AC guy that systems have a 'threshold amount of gas' under which a system will cool but not be cold.
Another is amounts of refrigerant to "PAG" oil. I wouldn't be surprised at all if PAG oil has been replaced with something newer and better. Both are specified amounts.
I recommend spending the money on having a real AC console attached to any vehicle.
The console will evacuate the system, filter and store the refrigerant and the oil you have.
Then the console will establish a vacuum and attempt to hold it over time.
If no leakage (or an acceptable amount of leakage, I'm told) is found, the console will add the correct amounts of products.
A pal had a garage, and he'd see how much of his own products he had to add and charge accordingly.
His setup added dye to the refrigerant.
Given the cost of these cans of refrigerant, the inaccuracy of doing it yourself and the wastefulness of refilling a leaky system, I'd go with having it done.
The outline posted by RodD is good stuff.
However, a couple of things are involved with a true repair.
One is threshold. I was told by an AC guy that systems have a 'threshold amount of gas' under which a system will cool but not be cold.
Another is amounts of refrigerant to "PAG" oil. I wouldn't be surprised at all if PAG oil has been replaced with something newer and better. Both are specified amounts.
I recommend spending the money on having a real AC console attached to any vehicle.
The console will evacuate the system, filter and store the refrigerant and the oil you have.
Then the console will establish a vacuum and attempt to hold it over time.
If no leakage (or an acceptable amount of leakage, I'm told) is found, the console will add the correct amounts of products.
A pal had a garage, and he'd see how much of his own products he had to add and charge accordingly.
His setup added dye to the refrigerant.
Given the cost of these cans of refrigerant, the inaccuracy of doing it yourself and the wastefulness of refilling a leaky system, I'd go with having it done.
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