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Howzit. Upper engine valley is a river of oil right now. Replaced valve cover gaskets and they are not the problem. Also put in new timing chain tensioner and torqued new gasket to 32 ft. lbs., not the problem as well. Any other ideas? This is a pumper. Only time I have seen this much oil was when I used an unnamed shop to change the timing chain tensioner and the geniuses cross-threaded the new tensioner into the head. Came home and almost all the oil the engine was either on the ground or on the engine. Not fun to fix when it is 20-30 degrees outside. That said, I am out of ideas. If anyone has ever experienced this and can help, let me know. I have pulled the manifold and am looking for the source now. Thanx.
Assuming this is a new oil leak, starting after you changed the left\right OilPressurized TimingTensioner?
Tensioners need to be carefully started to insure no CrossThreading into the AluminumHeads,
the OEM Gaskets\Seals\Washers need to be carefully centered as you snug them down, & then final torq to 49LbFt.
If any of the above are NOT done, likely to have an oil gusher. Seat scar can also cause leak; see link below for that fix. Click for more on V6~4.0l~SOHC OilPressurized TimingTensioners.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by DILLARD000; May 13, 2022 at 10:49 AM.
Yes and thanks, checked all of this. No leak coming from the tensioner. And, because I put a new tensioner and gasket in, torque is 32 ft. lbs. No issues there. I am going to see if I can locate the leak tomorrow with rags and die. More than likely a result of a shitty engine rebuild in Dallas, TX. I'll let every one know what I find. Thanks again for sounding off.
Dillard000, thank you for the links. No leak coming from the tensioner, however, right next door was/is the problem. Oil pouring from there and no oil restrictor to be found once I removed the T-30 plug. Will have to order the part and then re-seal. Also, found a T-30 plug in the top of the block that is also leaking. Will need to torque/seal the plug as oil is pouring from that as well. Never had these issues before this engine went out for rebuild.
11 LbFt on the "Oil Galley Restrictor Plug"; click here for extensive torq spec list for V6~4.0L~SOHC engined Explorer\Ranger\Sport\SportTrac\B4000...
Recommend a smear of PermaTex OilResistantBlack or HiTempRed RTV on those T30 plug threads.
I suspect the plastic stick "Restrictor" also acts as a 1WayValve that maintains a
small volume of oil under pressure feeding the left OilPressurized TimingTensioner,
so if it's missing, could result in low or inconsistent oil flow to that Tensioner.
Last edited by DILLARD000; May 17, 2022 at 12:25 AM.
Hi,
Where do I fit a new one of these? I have just finished replacing chain guides and tensioners. Do I need to fit a new one of these oil pipe reducers?
TIA
...Where do I fit a new one of these?
...just finished replacing chain guides and tensioners.
...Do I need to fit a new one of these oil pipe reducers?
If you currently do NOT have above pictured OilPipeReducer "PlasticStick" Ford# yL2z-9e473 \ 00m12in the OilGalley to left TimingTensioner,
yes do install one; remove the T30 PipePlug, insert this stick, replace PipePlug with RTV lite smear on the threads, torq to 11LbFt.
If there is already a Reducer\Rectrictor in that OilGalley, no need for a new one, it does NOT significantly wear with use+time.
Reducer stick can be removed with small NeedleNosePliers\Tweezers, think the kids game "Operation"; clean with a lite spray of CarbCleaner.
Hope this helps, Click here for more info on the OilPressurized TimingTensioners & this OilPipeReducer.
Would anyone have a schematic of the heads that would show where the oil galleries are? Oil now appears to be coming from the base of the head gaskets and that is what is filling the valley. Thanks.
Update: Engine is being pulled. I have head gasket leaks on both heads and now have coolant in the oil. Heads were not properly torqued by the rebuilder and the engine has failed. I will inspect the heads for warpage and cracks once I have the motor out of the truck. Complete pisser as I am 50-60 hr. a week guy with an already full plate. Shops where I live wanted to charge me $1250 to pull the engine and $1250 to put it back in; this without pulling the engine apart and replacing the head gaskets. I know the bottom end to be in good shape and the likely do not have bent valves as the truck idled and ran quite well when I started it up. I just poured oil out into the valley between the heads, which then ran down the bell housing. Can't trust anyone anymore. How pathetic.
