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4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech General discussion of 4.0L OHV and SOHC V6 Ford Ranger engines.

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Old 03-05-2009
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air filter box

hello after having trouble with my k&n cone air filter i am looking at putting the stock set up back in will a 2000 4.0 air box fit my 97 4.0 ?
thanks
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Old 03-05-2009
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i dont think so they are in a differnt place
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Old 03-05-2009
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hmmm, any one else?
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Old 03-05-2009
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2000 still used the pushrod 4.0 so it should work.
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Old 03-05-2009
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yeah its the same intake tube so if worse comes to worse i could make a bracket the maf should work, i dont see why not.
thanks
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Old 03-05-2009
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I would stick with the MAF sensor and housing that came with your truck.
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Old 03-05-2009
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why would that be, im going to this set up because i am getting the bucking /jerking symptoms and im down to the maf or air filter, im ruling the cheapest things out first
btw the housing and the sensor look the same as stock
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Old 03-05-2009
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There could be a difference in the engineering code. Try it out.

Also bucking/jerking could be anything.
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Old 03-05-2009
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Have you cleaned your MAF? Might want to try that before replacing it.
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Old 03-05-2009
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Different MAF's have different calibrations per their respective applications. Don't rely on looks.

IMHO, before you go swapping parts and spending money, figure out how many Ohms your MAF should have, measure yours and go from there.
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Old 03-05-2009
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i took a maf off a newer explorer and not exactly what year tho it works great mine was screwed up bad
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Old 03-05-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Downey View Post
i took a maf off a newer explorer and not exactly what year tho it works great mine was screwed up bad
Mine went bad, I just bought one that looked like it, Never had a problem since. Still runs good, good milage.
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Old 03-06-2009
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Originally Posted by bergs View Post
Different MAF's have different calibrations per their respective applications. Don't rely on looks.

IMHO, before you go swapping parts and spending money, figure out how many Ohms your MAF should have, measure yours and go from there.
All that will tell you is if the element is totally open, it won't tell you if it is getting the proper signal when heated.
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Old 03-06-2009
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In the tune there is a chart called the MAF transfer function. When tuning.. this is the very first thing you address.

If you change the MAF in any way.. and you want the truck to have the proper air / fuel ratio? You'll need to adjust this in the tune. without doing so your A/F will not be right from idle up to about 90% throttle. (rpms don't matter)

Sounds like your trying to go cheap.. but in reality you need to find out the root cause. Otherwise your just guessing and throwing parts at it.

You can rule the MAF sensor out by just dis-connecting it. When you do that there is a "out of spec" chart that the tune uses as a default.
Yes it'll throw a CEL but the truck will run smoothly if it is indeed a bad MAF.
If it still jerks with it unplugged? The MAF or airbox/filter is not the problem.

Rich

Last edited by wydopnthrtl; 03-06-2009 at 10:11 AM.
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Old 03-06-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wydopnthrtl View Post

You can rule the MAF sensor out by just dis-connecting it. When you do that there is a "out of spec" chart that the tune uses as a default.
Yes it'll throw a CEL but the truck will run smoothly if it is indeed a bad MAF.
If it still jerks with it unplugged? The MAF or airbox/filter is not the problem.

Rich
is that on just the srock tune or is it on the x cal because thats what i have from stuff for your ranger

UP DATE: i just went out and drove it w/o the maf connected and it shifted hard but the jerking / bucking wasn't there so i think its the maf sensor?

Last edited by skyway0018746; 03-06-2009 at 06:40 PM.
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Old 03-07-2009
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The PCM in a car is a computer. In that computer there is a "tune". Whether it's stock or been reflashed by an aftermarket thing like a x-cal.. doesn't matter for the issue your having.

Since you unplugged it and it no longer bucked.. it's definately related to something between your throttle body and the MAF. More than likely it's the MAF it'self. But... it could be a leak between the two. (the hard shifting is normal too)

Some have reported a air filter box that's not sealed properly causing the same thing. I'm not sure I buy that one.. but it's been reported here at R-F. Might check that.

If everything is properly sealed and you don't have any leaks... it's just about got to be the MAF sensor.

Rich
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  #17  
Old 03-07-2009
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yeah i figured the hard shifting was normal so i guess ill get a new maf sensor. its gonna be big money from ford.
i have a homemade cai but i have been spraying it with carb cleaner, eather and maf cleaner trying to see if i have a leak but nothing.
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Old 03-07-2009
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Check out tousley ford. They give the SVT crowd a 10% over cost price.

Also, check out rock auto or the local autoparts places. IMO.. this type of part is not worthy of standard ford service pricing. It's not like they are rebuilt and wear out. No matter what you buy it's going to be new with a warrenty.

Rich
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  #19  
Old 03-10-2009
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well got my new maf ans took it for a little test drive and so fat its good, i bought a set of tamper proof torx bits and took my old one out and cleaned it real good and it was pretty good but still bucked when i romped on it so hope this work. thanks guys.
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  #20  
Old 04-17-2009
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fixed

well finally fixed it, the maf sensor didnt fix it. i read other posts on similar problems and it turned out i just needed a plug and wire change
and i still have my k&n cone filter go figure .
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