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Got an 2004 4.0L SOHC, and I’ve been trying to identify a ticking sound from the bottom end of the engine. It’s almost impossible to hear from the top. Engine oil condition doesn’t change it, and it make this sound while engine is hot or cool. Any theories or ideas as to what this is would be much appreciated. Here is a decent clip of the
Could be exhaust leak
Have someone put a gloved hand over tail pipe and see if noise changes
If it makes the noise when cold then...............when engine is stone cold remove fan belt from crank pulley
Start engine
You can run it cold without the water pump for 60 to 90 seconds, plenty of time to zero in on a noise
With no fan or accessories running the engine bay will be VERY VERY QUIET
And you can repeat test when engine is cold again
Battery light will stay on, no alternator either, that's OK
I am 90% positive it’s either a cracked exhaust manifold or the gaskets that is allowing the noise to escape, I couldn’t find any other leaks further downstream. Unfortunately, the bolts are pretty rusted and will definitely put up a fight, so I haven’t taken the time to investigate further. Just living with the sound for now. Sorry it’s not an exciting response :(
Just as a heads up, independent exhaust shops(not chains) will often do cash deals
They work with rusted exhaust daily and know all the tricks and methods to get exhaust systems apart and have the replacement studs, nuts and bolts in stock
So I no longer deal with exhaust systems, lol
If I have a drive-able vehicle and I know I will need to remove exhaust parts, I take it to my local shop
Most I ever paid was $60, least was $20
Just as a heads up, independent exhaust shops(not chains) will often do cash deals
They work with rusted exhaust daily and know all the tricks and methods to get exhaust systems apart and have the replacement studs, nuts and bolts in stock
So I know longer deal with exhaust systems, lol
If I have a drive-able vehicle and I know I will need to remove exhaust parts, I take it to my local shop
Most I ever paid was $60, least was $20
sounds like solid advice, I’ll definitely check it out this summer. Thanks!
Found 2 exhaust leaks, neither were anywhere close to location I was expecting. Hope that sealing up these leaks will quite ticking noise.
Planning to putty (JB Weld extreme heat) muffler leak, still figuring out how to approach union leak. Any tips for union would be appreciated but I’m sure it won’t take long on YouTube to get some ideas.
Managed to get old hardware off exhaust flange with some PB blaster, elbow grease, and lots of patience
Replaced donut (walker 31372) as well as bolts (walker 36129). Ditched springs in favor 5/8th ID x 1 inch SS bushings from ace ($2.40/each) and clamped really good on the donut. Wanted to use springs but could not get tight enough to stop leak.
so far it seems to have completely eliminated the bottom end ticking, but haven’t driven it for long. So far so good
No luck on fixing the ticking, will try looking for exhaust leak around manifolds again.
At the moment I’m leaning towards assuming it’s timing chain related. Noises are only present at idle, and passenger bank timing chain does chatter a bit on cold starts. Might be a stretched chain that gets tightened by the tensioner as soon as oil pressure increases.
on that note of increased oil pressure, has anyone tried heavier weight engine oil in 4.0 SOHC? Curious if heavier oil would increase oil pressure or just put extra strain on the oiling system.
The 4.0l SOHC noise from timing chains wasn't oil pressure related
The "death rattle" that the 4.0l SOHC can suffer from is from a failed spring in one of the long chain tensioners
When you start the engine, BEFORE there is oil pressure, the spring in the tensioner has to hold the chain tight, if it doesn't then the chain BANGS on its chain guide, but hard to hear over starter motor cranking
So after a while and quite a few startups, the guide breaks, and you get the "death rattle", easy to hear, so damage is done, really is no warning signs for it
Best advice is to change both long chain tensioners every 100k miles, they are not expensive, $80-$100 for Motorcraft, so $10 per 10k miles or $1 per 1,000miles
When you say “long chain tensioner” do you mean some tensioner that is integrated in the chain guides or is this the hydraulic tensioner that is along the side of the head?
There are two, passenger side toward the rear, lower down under exhaust manifold, access thru wheel well
Drivers side, toward front on intake side of head, need to remove throttle body to replace it
Google: ford ranger 4.0l sohc tensioner replacement
several videos
Passenger side takes maybe 1/2hour depending if you remove the front tire on that side and or inner fender
Drivers side 1 hour
If you decide to change them then make sure you do not cross thread these tensioners, use hand to start threading them in
Use Motorcraft parts if available
Soak them in oil and push them down while end is submerged in oil, each should become very very hard to push in when they are "primed"
There are two, passenger side toward the rear, lower down under exhaust manifold, access thru wheel well
Drivers side, toward front on intake side of head, need to remove throttle body to replace it
Google: ford ranger 4.0l sohc tensioner replacement
several videos
Passenger side takes maybe 1/2hour depending if you remove the front tire on that side and or inner fender
Drivers side 1 hour
If you decide to change them then make sure you do not cross thread these tensioners, use hand to start threading them in
Use Motorcraft parts if available
Soak them in oil and push them down while end is submerged in oil, each should become very very hard to push in when they are "primed"
Yes, I actually have already replaced the passenger side tensioner but didn’t have any luck. I probably did not install/prime properly, I don’t recall it ever getting extremely hard so might have gotten a dud or user error. At some point this summer I do plan on ordering a pair and replacing both front and rear tensioner to see if that tightens up the chains.
But for now, focusing on the ticking, I’m firmly convinced the sound is due to a manifold leak, as initially advised here. Could try to pinpoint leak or might just pull the manifold off and replace gasket/hardware and check for cracks/leaks with it off.
...replaced the passenger side tensioner but didn’t have any luck
...don’t recall it ever getting extremely hard so might have gotten a dud or user error
...plan on ordering a pair and replacing both front and rear tensioner
...focusing on the ticking...convinced the sound is due to a manifold leak
Tick could be a bad PlugWire shorting to frame; how long since Plugs+Wires were last replaced?
Should be done every 100kMiles\12years along with OxSensors.
Tick could be a bad PlugWire shorting to frame; how long since Plugs+Wires were last replaced?
Should be done every 100kMiles\12years along with OxSensors.
they are under a month old. I had an issue with stuttering when trying to accelerate from a steady 50mph. Replaced the plugs, wires, and coil pack to fix that issue. Unless duralast (I know, not OEM, I’m sorry) are just trash wires, I don’t think they are the issue.
O2 sensor is something I might look at. In keeping with Murphy’s law, exhaust manifold would be more inconvenient than an O2 sensor, so I’m sure manifolds are where the issue lies XD
Pulled the belt, ran for a minute, nothing on the front causing noise. Got exhaust manifold gaskets in the mail, waiting to get those in before I start taking things off and looking for cracks.
Does anyone know if there is any kind of gasket/donut between manifolds and Y pipe? Couldn’t find anything online, looking like there is not but want to make sure I have everything I need before anything comes off.
...Pulled the belt, ran for a minute, nothing on the front causing noise
...manifold gaskets in the mail, waiting to get those in before I start taking things off and looking for cracks.
...anyone know if there is any kind of gasket/donut between manifolds and Y pipe?
...Couldn’t find anything...want to make sure I have everything
Not sure; still running all original factory exhaust here (excepting OxSensors), so its never been apart.
The WalkerExhaust diagram I have notes 3 different gasket+flange parts needed; doesn't note where or how many: * Walker# 31372 * Walker# 31637 * Walker# 31962
Part 31637 is the gasket for downstream end of YPipe, so only one of those needed.
Last edited by DILLARD000; May 7, 2023 at 03:29 AM.
Not sure; still running all original factory exhaust here (excepting OxSensors), so its never been apart.
The WalkerExhaust diagram I have notes 3 different gasket+flange parts needed; doesn't note where or how many: * Walker# 31372 * Walker# 31637 * Walker# 31962
Part 31637 is the gasket for downstream end of YPipe, so only one of those needed.
appreciate it, planning to pull off the whole front half of the exhaust and replace all the gaskets and hardware before it gets any more rusted. Might as well throw some Bosch or Denso O2’s in the mix as well since I’ll have it down (and definitely not because $24/piece on RockAuto)
yeah, I assume no gaskets/donuts at the manifold/Y pipe junction so I’ll just do some cleaning on the mating surfaces. Unless someone knows something I don’t, then we proceed with the regularly scheduled program!
...to pull off the whole front half of the exhaust and replace all the gaskets and hardware
...throw some Bosch or Denso O2’s in
...assume no gaskets/donuts at the manifold/Y pipe junction so I’ll just do some cleaning on the mating surfaces
Re-listened to your videos, it does sound like exhaust leak.
Found another WalkerExhaust diagram that notes there is no Gasket\Donut at Manifold~YPipe connection. A Bosch 15719 with 24i00 0m610 Long Cable+Plug is good to replace any Ford 4WireNarrowBand OxSensor.
Secure any extra OxSensor cable length with ZipTies to keep clear of HotExhaust\Moving parts.
MotorCraft or OriginalEquipmentMaker Bosch is recommended; cheap offbrand OxSensors tend to die young after a few weeks\months.
Sorry for the delay, a leaky rear main seal has developed so other work has halted. Took it to a reputable shop here, confirmed it was rear main seal, but they also looked at the exhaust and could not find any leaks after it cooled off.
some more info:
- no vacuum leaks
- no bad exhaust smell
- idle is smooth (700 +/- 15rpms)
- no luck finding any exhaust leak (while cool)
- noise still present only at idle, anything north of 1,000rpms and it disappears
Possible suspects at the moment: exhaust leak, timing chains, valvetrain
The lack of bad exhaust smell is swaying me away from pre-cats, could a ticking noise be caused from an exhaust leak way back near the muffler? Also, is an exhaust leak only when hot even possible? If manifold were cracked/warped, wouldn’t the noise only be present when cool, and vanish once hot and expanded?
Next time I’m out, planning on getting a recording of the noise next to a solid wall since that is when it’s most noticeable. Once seal is replaced, planning on grabbing a stethoscope and looking for noise that way. If I don’t have any luck after that, might just need to upgrade speaks system or straight pipe it to mask the ticking XD
Any more theories/ideas are welcome! Sorry no real update on the issue, oil spots on the driveway take precedence
