4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech General discussion of 4.0L OHV and SOHC V6 Ford Ranger engines.

Bottom end ticking (?)

Old Jul 26, 2023
  #26  
DILLARD000's Avatar
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From: US
Originally Posted by WcwNitro
Sorry for the delay, a leaky rear main seal has developed so other work has halted. Took it to a reputable shop here, confirmed it was rear main seal, but they also looked at the exhaust and could not find any leaks after it cooled off.

some more info:
- no vacuum leaks
- no bad exhaust smell
- idle is smooth (700 +/- 15rpms)
- no luck finding any exhaust leak (while cool)
- noise still present only at idle, anything north of 1,000rpms and it disappears

Possible suspects at the moment: exhaust leak, timing chains, valvetrain

The lack of bad exhaust smell is swaying me away from pre-cats, could a ticking noise be caused from an exhaust leak way back near the muffler? Also, is an exhaust leak only when hot even possible? If manifold were cracked/warped, wouldn’t the noise only be present when cool, and vanish once hot and expanded?

Next time I’m out, planning on getting a recording of the noise next to a solid wall since that is when it’s most noticeable. Once seal is replaced, planning on grabbing a stethoscope and looking for noise that way. If I don’t have any luck after that, might just need to upgrade speaks system or straight pipe it to mask the ticking XD

Any more theories/ideas are welcome! Sorry no real update on the issue, oil spots on the driveway take precedence
Check your PCVValve & vacuum connections, if PCV is not properly working can cause slightly higher crankcase pressure resulting in seal leaks.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2023
  #27  
WcwNitro's Avatar
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From: Naples Florida
Originally Posted by DILLARD000
Check your PCVValve & vacuum connections, if PCV is not properly working can cause slightly higher crankcase pressure resulting in seal leaks.
I believe the PCV system is working properly, when I pull the oil filler cap off while running I can definitely feel decent vacuum. Opening the cap also changes idle but returns as soon as cap is back on, so don’t think I have any issues there. Rear trans seal at driveshaft is also allowing a tiny amount of fluid to leak by, so I’m chalking any sealing issues to age and wear.

Wasn’t planning on messing with any of the vacuum lines unless y’all think the ticking noise could be related(?)
 
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Old Jul 26, 2023
  #28  
EF Hutton's Avatar
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From: Abita Springs
Since the Tensioners were mentioned here, i have a Q :

From reading about the Tensioner changes for quite a while now, it seems that some people advocated priming the new ones in oil.

Then, later advice i see seems like people learned that priming the new ones made it very difficult to get started in the threads.

So, Today, after a whole lot of info on people installing these, couldn’t we conclude Now, that priming is not necessary since we can later un-plug the coil and spin it over and prime them ??
 
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Old Jul 26, 2023
  #29  
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From: Naples Florida
Originally Posted by EF Hutton
Since the Tensioners were mentioned here, i have a Q :

From reading about the Tensioner changes for quite a while now, it seems that some people advocated priming the new ones in oil.

Then, later advice i see seems like people learned that priming the new ones made it very difficult to get started in the threads.

So, Today, after a whole lot of info on people installing these, couldn’t we conclude Now, that priming is not necessary since we can later un-plug the coil and spin it over and prime them ??
I did not want to fight the tensioners and risk stripping the head so I did the prime by cranking method as mentioned. Unfortunately I am not able to tell if that is the best method without going and pulling one out. Also, I believe I am having issues with other timing components, so I cannot definitively offer which method is better without taking stuff apart (again)

Not that you asked, but watch out for the little sheet metal gasket when tightening down. It will want to get trapped under a collar on the tensioner and will not seal. The size of the resulting oil puddle will also tell you how well that oil galley is flowing, and mine was flowing at 101%

TLDR: No, I cannot definitively say which method is better.
 

Last edited by WcwNitro; Jul 26, 2023 at 04:16 PM.
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Old Jan 10, 2024
  #30  
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From: Naples Florida
Ticking unsolved and closed

While investigating for the ticking, I decided to remove the passenger valve cover just to confirm a worst-case suspicion… naturally, the passenger side guide had relocated itself to the oil pan. Ended up skipping a sprocket shortly after, because why the heck wouldn’t it.

Was neck deep in work and school, was quoted $5500 to replace the chains and guides all around or get a reman engine with a 3 year unlimited mile warranty for $7k so a few months later, got a new motor and the ticking is gone. Not the most desirable result and was certainly expensive but no rattles, ticking, or old gasket to worry about anymore.

As far as the noise I originally posted, I am not 100% it was the timing chain ticking like that but now I’ll never know. 2 shops couldn't find an exhaust leak so… oh well I suppose. Will never know.

moral of the story as I see it, if you’ve got the 4.0 sohc and it’s making a ticking/rattle, just pull the valve cover before wasting too much time :(

I am sorry I don’t have an appropriate solution for the ticking that started this thread, but it was probably an exhaust leak or the timing guide. Thank you for the responses!
 
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