Ok guys, I have dropped my trans to change the slave with a buddy of mine but it looks like I am going to be solo on the clutch. I have never done a clutch before, any advice? I am going to start this on Saturday just in case I run into any problems, then at least I have Sunday.

Thanks for the help in advance.

CB

 

I have a Spec Stage 2 clutch.....LOVE IT!!!

What you need: Clutch Disc, Pressure plate, pilot bearing, clutch alignment tool, a external torx socket set(for the flywheel bolts...don't remember the size).

It's not htat hard. Ive changed the clutch in my ranger twice. Just pull of the bolts that hole the pressure plate onto the flywheel, and the plate and the disc will come right off. It weighes a lil bit, so don't let it surprize you. Then pull the flywheel off by removing the 8? external torx bolts. Don't let it just drop off...the flywheel weighes quite a bit, don't want you dropping it on your toes/foot, or wrecking the teeth. Get the flywheel resurfaced. Every clutch job I've done, i've resurfaced the flywheel. It's only about $20-30 at the machine shop....and the machine shop can take care of the pilot bearing install for ya too. Or you can just use a hammer and a socket to press the bearing out, and then install of the bearing.

Installation: Put flywheel back on, put your alignment tool through the splines on the disc, and push the alignment tool into the pilot bearing, let it hang in there. Then get your presssure plate on, start two of the bolts, and tighten then down 1/2 turn at a time, while wiggling the alignment tool to set the disc into correct possition.

When you put the trans in, be careful with the input shaft on the trans...sometimes it can be tricky to get it to align to the splines on the disc. You don't want to bend the disc...as you'll end up having chatter.

There's torq specs, but i don't remember any of them. I used a Chiltons/Haynes book on the first swap. 2nd I didn't. There torque specs in the chiltons for all the hardware. If it's your first clutch swap, it's a good idea just to goahead and get yourself one of those books.

Let me get ya some pics...hang on.

 

When you tighten the clutch to flywheel makes sure you tighten in a criss-cross pattern.

Make sure you adjust the clutch. You will need to puch the fingers down somehow.

Make sure you clean the flywheel with some brake cleaner.

 

******* Change the slave cylinder while you have everything out!!!!!*************

 

Add those to the list. I forgot about the criss-cross pattern...in my head its how its done, just lacked to mention it.

You do not need to adjust the clutch, nor the flywheel fingers...the local ford dealerships knew nothing about this...so i didn't do it on either of my clutch swaps. The Ranger clutch is non-adjustable, because it has no mechanical linkage(rods or cable), it is hydraulic. Bleeding is fairly easy, but it does take 2 people. open the bleeder and let the fluid drain in to the new slave cyl. Then have the 2nd person, slowly pump the clutch pedal 5 times, holding 2seconds between pumps. on the third, have him/her old it to the floor, then release the bleeder. Repete those steps like 3 more times is what I did.

Brake cleaner on the flywheel, and also on the flywheel machined surface.

 

Adjust the clutch?? I thought it was self adjusting????? I know about the slave, I have been down that road before, I will be changing it again...

 

The Haynes tear down manual says to move an adjustment all the way to one side when you press the fingers down. The adjustment is on the pressure plate.

 

^^^^F*ck, I hope I can figure this out. I have done a lot of work on engines (water pumps, upper and lower intake gaskets, valve jobs ect.) but a clutch is a first...

 

Ask Bob but I'm 95% sure you have to do the adjustment. I don't have the manual on me right now but I can scan it tomorrow.

 

I havn't done that "adjust thing" ever on my either of my two swaps. Clutch Doctor doesn't do it......ford dealer doesnt do it, at least local places to me, don't do it. I haven't had problems. Pull it out of the box, clean, install.

I know the haynes/chiltons or whatever says to push the fingers down on a press, and slide that little spring holder thing. What that does, is it moves the diafram fingers away from the throwout bearing, to make an easy install. You don't have to adjust the p-plate fingers, but itll be a little more difficult to install the trans.

 

The manual said to do it so I figured it had something with clutch engagement or something. Cool. One less thing to do.

Then greygooseranger you are ready to go. Let us know how it goes. I might be doing mine soon. Stupid guy that did it last time screwed it up and it chatters big time when I take off and the Centerforce clutch I have in it sucks. Time for a Spec clutch.

 

ya, i have never replaced a clutch before and when i had to on the 94'.. i did it myself.. just remember where everything goes and good luck with those top tranny bolts.. what a b*tch.. lol.. good luck

 

Never changed it, it turns out that everything was fine. After a quick slave bleed the truck engages and disengages a lot better....

 

LOL.. whats with doing it the easy way!?

If I had a dime for every time I've done a "fix" by checking the obvious first..

 

its pretty easy just mark the drive shafts and stuff the only B***H is, is bleeding the slave mine still isn't where i want it