1st post f%^% bearings
#1
#4
if you've replaced the bearing, then i doubt its that. a simple way to check to see if your bearing is bad is to jack your truck up, grab your wheel at 12 and 5. and shake it back and forth, if it moves a ton, your bearing is toast.
Check your calipers and pads, those make noises all the time.
Check your calipers and pads, those make noises all the time.
#6
Did you replace the races along with the bearings?
They can be a PITA to do but that could be your prob right there. I had to use a flat head screwdriver and carefully tap them out from the back side being careful not to gouge the inside of the rotor. Buy a race/seal driver kit to re-install them. Mine was only $30 at Harbor-Freight.
Also torque is very important when doing the bearings. First torque the nut to 17-25 foot lbs while rotating the wheel (seats the bearings), then back the nut off 1/2 turn and re-torque it to 17-20 INCH lbs. Too much pre-load and they will be toast in no time, too little and the wheel will wobble.
They can be a PITA to do but that could be your prob right there. I had to use a flat head screwdriver and carefully tap them out from the back side being careful not to gouge the inside of the rotor. Buy a race/seal driver kit to re-install them. Mine was only $30 at Harbor-Freight.
Also torque is very important when doing the bearings. First torque the nut to 17-25 foot lbs while rotating the wheel (seats the bearings), then back the nut off 1/2 turn and re-torque it to 17-20 INCH lbs. Too much pre-load and they will be toast in no time, too little and the wheel will wobble.
#7
Did you replace the races along with the bearings?
They can be a PITA to do but that could be your prob right there. I had to use a flat head screwdriver and carefully tap them out from the back side being careful not to gouge the inside of the rotor. Buy a race/seal driver kit to re-install them. Mine was only $30 at Harbor-Freight.
Also torque is very important when doing the bearings. First torque the nut to 17-25 foot lbs while rotating the wheel (seats the bearings), then back the nut off 1/2 turn and re-torque it to 17-20 INCH lbs. Too much pre-load and they will be toast in no time, too little and the wheel will wobble.
They can be a PITA to do but that could be your prob right there. I had to use a flat head screwdriver and carefully tap them out from the back side being careful not to gouge the inside of the rotor. Buy a race/seal driver kit to re-install them. Mine was only $30 at Harbor-Freight.
Also torque is very important when doing the bearings. First torque the nut to 17-25 foot lbs while rotating the wheel (seats the bearings), then back the nut off 1/2 turn and re-torque it to 17-20 INCH lbs. Too much pre-load and they will be toast in no time, too little and the wheel will wobble.
to be fair about the torque thing, i usually just crank that sucker tight, and back it off until the wheel spins right, its all feeling for me, but i know how a correct spinning wheel feels. sounds weird, but i've not had a problem yet.
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