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4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech General discussion of 4.0L OHV and SOHC V6 Ford Ranger engines.

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Old 03-03-2010
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help replacing headgaskets

i do not need the truck to drive right now so i wanna try and do this myself. i'm trying to replace the head gaskets,and this is my first time working on a motor besides changing the oil, i've took the intake mannifold off,the valve covers off,the head bolts off, what else needs to come off,because the head will not move at all after taking all this off. does anybody have any instructions/pics on how to do this
thanks yall
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Old 03-03-2010
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no pics anymore there could be, depending on your truck, i don't know anything about specific models, but their could be an EGR tube on the back, your intake manifold could be 2 pieces (as was the case of my mustang, there was an upper and lower) i think yours will be the ohv model, which makes it MUCH easier, you can take off your rockers, although i didn't,

taking them off will probably reduce the risk of warping your head (which is a serious problem) basically take the bolts off, they will come right out, make sure you keep them in order, as all 12? of them have to go back on in the exact same spot, then pull your push rods out, (look like metal drinking straws) and same deal, they also have to have the same orientation on them... ie, top is top, bottom is bottom...

some motors it doesn't matter (which i THINK ours is one of them, but it is REALLY a good habit to get into) the best way to do this is use a shoe box, poke holes in the lid for the push rods, mark one end as the front of the motor, and put the rockers beside the push rods...

in addition to all this, you will have to remove the sparkplug wires, and may as well remove the distributor cap and rotor at the same time (if equiped), get it out of the way... if you do have a cap and rotor, toss it and buy new ones, they are about $20 for the set... plug wires would be a good investment too

next is to remove the exhaust manifolds, these come out of the side of the heads, on the bottomish side should be 6-8 bolts on each (2 of them, one per head) let them just dangle after that, pull the heads, there shouldn't be anything more to attached to them, just make sure that they come off slowly, if you do any jerking or anything like that, it could warp them... after they are off, call a machine shop around, and find someone who can check if they are straight, if not have them planed. it is worth the money to do this, if they are slightly warped, any more than spec, you run a huge risk of blowing another head gasget
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Old 03-03-2010
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took the rockers off,so the push rods is like a metel straw,do they pull right out of do you have to turn them like a srew to get them out?
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Old 03-04-2010
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they should pull right out... you have an in block cam, right? if you have an overhead cam, it's a completely different monster...

the push rods should be about 8 inches long, and will just be sitting in a hole in the head... they MIGHT be a little stuck in the lifter (you won't be able to see them) but a quick tug would pop them out, if they ARE stuck in the lifter, you might have to get new lifters... but we can tackle that when you get to them... i have never seen them stuck before though...

once the heads are off, pull the lifters, one by one, or 2 at a time, again, remembering which ones go where, and inspect them... there are 3 things you are looking for, 1) the bottom of the lifter, should be flat and polished looking, if it is concave (worn inwards) they may need to be replaced, depending on specs... you can check for this by placing the end of one that you are inspecting, up against the side of another, and see if there is a gap in the middle (kind of like making a T with the 2 lifters, the vertical part of the T would be the one you are inspecting... 2) looking for any pitting or rough sections on the outside of the lifter, any pitting is a rough surface that can wear your block, and if it is on the bottom your cam, and will work like sandpaper as the motor runs... 3) do the internals function... this is simple, push the top of the lifter down, it should go down about 1/8th to 1/4 inch, not entirely sure about the ones in your motor... it should do this smoothly, if it is jerky, or sticks at the top or bottom or anywhere in between, it is probably time for new ones, there should be a good amount of resistance on that, but not so much that it is impossible to push, or takes a huge amount of force... you should be able to push it down with one finger...

if your lifters ALL pass ALL of those checks, they are fine, if one fails, i personally would replace all of them... i am not sure if that is what is recommended or not though...

the last thing i would recommend is replacing your valve seals, these are easy to replace, if you have a valve spring compressor...
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Old 03-04-2010
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i'm not sure what motor i got, any why to find out?so the push rods is what one side of the rockers sit on? and i've done the drivers side havent touched the passenger side yet

and thanks for the advice man

Last edited by steveo1271; 03-04-2010 at 12:36 AM.
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Old 03-04-2010
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You have single overhead cam engine, compleatly diffent than the OHV one. Do you have a Haynes manual? If not get one. Its no replacement for the factory service manual, but it should help.
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Old 03-04-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steveo1271 View Post
i'm not sure what motor i got, any why to find out?so the push rods is what one side of the rockers sit on? and i've done the drivers side havent touched the passenger side yet

and thanks for the advice man
If you can wait til monday I will print it out and upload it on here for you. I've never done a 4.0 SOHC so I don't have any useful tips for you at this moment.

James, you should know that in 01 the Ranger got the SOHC instead of the OHV. I have done the OHV and have the procedure on them computer for it.
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Old 03-04-2010
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don't have a haynes manual,but tom994x4 i got all the time in world right know so anything will help
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Old 03-04-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steveo1271 View Post
don't have a haynes manual,but tom994x4 i got all the time in world right know so anything will help
Ok. Wait til monday and i'll have it for you.
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Old 03-04-2010
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Cam out? Bumpy stick is what it looks like
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Old 03-04-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toms994x4 View Post
If you can wait til monday I will print it out and upload it on here for you. I've never done a 4.0 SOHC so I don't have any useful tips for you at this moment.

James, you should know that in 01 the Ranger got the SOHC instead of the OHV. I have done the OHV and have the procedure on them computer for it.
i've said it once, and i'll say it again, i don't know the year that they switched motors, i don't memorize every year that they made every change in the ranger... which is why i said IF you have the OHV motor...

ANYWAYS, Stephen, disregard all i have said, as it does not pertain to you
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Old 03-04-2010
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Also FYI the 4.0's have roller lifters stock
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Old 03-04-2010
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Originally Posted by 98rangerxlt View Post
Also FYI the 4.0's have roller lifters stock
What does that matter? Many OHV engines use roller lifters...
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Old 03-04-2010
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Originally Posted by Toms994x4 View Post
What does that matter? Many OHV engines use roller lifters...
i think it was in reference to my explanation on how to check for lifter wear...
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Old 03-05-2010
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It was and also roller lifters dont have to go it the same spot
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Old 03-08-2010
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I have the procedure unfortunately I didn't have time to scan it and upload it. I was busy working on a car. I'll have it up for you tomorrow.
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