Injection timing
Injection timing
I'm setting the timing on my remanufactured 4.0 that I've recently dropped into my 95 ranger. The camshaft position sensor has the vane in the sensor for reference. I have the engine set to 26° after top dead center. From what I've gathered I should be able to rotate the synchronizer to get battery voltage to the sensor And see it on the volt meter. I don't have the test harness I've just got my test leads hooked up directly to the prongs on the sensor. When I have everything hooked up I get 11.63 volts reading on the meter. No matter how I rotate it I always have 11.63 volts. My battery is testing at 12.67 volts so I don't even have battery voltage. Please let me know if the test harness is absolutely required and please let me know anything else I am doing wrong. All help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
1990-1998 Ranger 4.0l did use Hall Effect Cam Sensors, 1999/2000 used VR Cam sensors
I'm sure there is a way to test hall effect sensor timing the way you are doing it but not sure why you would want to do it that way
Cam sensor/synchro install seen here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...hronizer.shtml
The crank sensor sets the spark and injector timing, period, its the Big Kahuna sensor out of ALL the sensors
The cam sensor was added for fine tuning that timing to lower emissions, and the computer is what sets the final timing of the cam sensor, if you get it within 2deg of exact the computer will correct it
So don't over think it, you won't get more, or less, power if its off a bit, computer will sync it to Crank sensor
The big deal is to make sure you are on #1 TDC "compression stroke", NOT exhaust stroke, because there are TWO #1 TDCs
I'm sure there is a way to test hall effect sensor timing the way you are doing it but not sure why you would want to do it that way
Cam sensor/synchro install seen here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...hronizer.shtml
The crank sensor sets the spark and injector timing, period, its the Big Kahuna sensor out of ALL the sensors
The cam sensor was added for fine tuning that timing to lower emissions, and the computer is what sets the final timing of the cam sensor, if you get it within 2deg of exact the computer will correct it
So don't over think it, you won't get more, or less, power if its off a bit, computer will sync it to Crank sensor
The big deal is to make sure you are on #1 TDC "compression stroke", NOT exhaust stroke, because there are TWO #1 TDCs
Last edited by RonD; Jun 16, 2021 at 03:54 PM.
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