lean bank one and bank 2
news flash, no one thinks youre funny. go away.
you didnt mention if you cleared the codes or not but if you did and the codes are coming back, i would keep looking for another vacuum leak. they can be tricky to track down but id be willing to bet theres another leak in there somewhere. inspect all your lines and fittings for cracks or breaks. your codes should have nothing to do with your AC unless youre loosing so much vacuum that the blend doors arent opening and closing properly in youre HVAC system. they use vacuum to open/ close the blend doors.
you didnt mention if you cleared the codes or not but if you did and the codes are coming back, i would keep looking for another vacuum leak. they can be tricky to track down but id be willing to bet theres another leak in there somewhere. inspect all your lines and fittings for cracks or breaks. your codes should have nothing to do with your AC unless youre loosing so much vacuum that the blend doors arent opening and closing properly in youre HVAC system. they use vacuum to open/ close the blend doors.
thank god someone else agrees with me. I cleared the codes and they came back. wish i had a sohc and had that common elbow problem. very frustrating when you cant see anything real obvious.
you might get lucky and actually be able to hear the leak. thats how i found my leaky elbow a few years back. it was loud. another trick is to get a can of carb cleaner, the flammable kind and spray lightly around your vacuum lines and listen for a change in the RPMs. that might help you pin point the leak.
sorry for quoting so many posts...
x2 on both points, except it doesn't sound like it's a blend door issue, i think he's saying his compressor clutch isn't actioning... and i think if there were THAT big of a vacuum leak, he would be having an idle issue, being that it wouldn't idle... and that doesn't sound to be the case
another way to do it is a propane torch, turn it on, but don't light it, hook a rubber tube up to it, so you can direct the propane, and look for the same thing... anything flamable really, will work... i have heard even wd-40 works, but never tried it, it might reak havvoc on your o2 sensors though...
maf can cause lean codes, but i have a feeling that this is not your issue... not basing it on anything but gut instinct... wouldn't hurt to clean it anyways, i don't know for sure if carb cleaner would work or not, but i wouldn't... i would use sensor cleaner, hit a parts store and ask for sensor cleaner, should be a spray bomb type can... or put isopropyl alcohol into a squirt bottle, ( i like those sample hairspray bottles) and douce the maf in it, let it drip off for a while, like spray constantly for a good minute... just DON'T touch the sensor vanes with your fingers, or any other item, if they bend it will not be accurate (i bent my mustangs, nothing but problems since...)
news flash, no one thinks youre funny. go away.
you didnt mention if you cleared the codes or not but if you did and the codes are coming back, i would keep looking for another vacuum leak. they can be tricky to track down but id be willing to bet theres another leak in there somewhere. inspect all your lines and fittings for cracks or breaks. your codes should have nothing to do with your AC unless youre loosing so much vacuum that the blend doors arent opening and closing properly in youre HVAC system. they use vacuum to open/ close the blend doors.
you didnt mention if you cleared the codes or not but if you did and the codes are coming back, i would keep looking for another vacuum leak. they can be tricky to track down but id be willing to bet theres another leak in there somewhere. inspect all your lines and fittings for cracks or breaks. your codes should have nothing to do with your AC unless youre loosing so much vacuum that the blend doors arent opening and closing properly in youre HVAC system. they use vacuum to open/ close the blend doors.
you might get lucky and actually be able to hear the leak. thats how i found my leaky elbow a few years back. it was loud. another trick is to get a can of carb cleaner, the flammable kind and spray lightly around your vacuum lines and listen for a change in the RPMs. that might help you pin point the leak.
maf can cause lean codes, but i have a feeling that this is not your issue... not basing it on anything but gut instinct... wouldn't hurt to clean it anyways, i don't know for sure if carb cleaner would work or not, but i wouldn't... i would use sensor cleaner, hit a parts store and ask for sensor cleaner, should be a spray bomb type can... or put isopropyl alcohol into a squirt bottle, ( i like those sample hairspray bottles) and douce the maf in it, let it drip off for a while, like spray constantly for a good minute... just DON'T touch the sensor vanes with your fingers, or any other item, if they bend it will not be accurate (i bent my mustangs, nothing but problems since...)
OH EL OH ELLLS
OP....just toss on a new one and clear the code. My ball actually was resting on the header for a few days and I didn't notice til I looked into my inner fenderless fender and saw it sitting there. Mine never tossed any codes until the night I was replacing it, and it wasn't even a code regarding that heater vac ball thing. Also, REMEMBER, the hoses go ONE WAY. You can mount them on the ball in either hole, BUT DONT....the valve is one way.
OP....just toss on a new one and clear the code. My ball actually was resting on the header for a few days and I didn't notice til I looked into my inner fenderless fender and saw it sitting there. Mine never tossed any codes until the night I was replacing it, and it wasn't even a code regarding that heater vac ball thing. Also, REMEMBER, the hoses go ONE WAY. You can mount them on the ball in either hole, BUT DONT....the valve is one way.
shane- already replaced the ball. i still question the vaccum leak because if i had that ball that was broke and another vaccum leak wouldnt that cause some other engine problems, such as a lack of pwoer?
i recently had the same code problem ... i tried swapping the MAF sensor and it wasnt it ... it turned out to be a gasket in the intake .... im not saying try this first but its an idea and it worked ... cleared the codes on my 01 and they never came back
trial and error ,,, MAF didnt fix it ... the elbow hadnt failed and was in good shape ... the guys at my moms shop foged my air system to attempt to find the leak whatever the hell that means ... but they told me the intake gasket was broken and thats where my air leak was .. well they where sure as hell right ... fixed the gasket ... ran the engine for a week after the gasket was fixed and then the truck passed emmisions ... and about that lack of power issue ... i was having the same problem ... there was a constant stalling issue at idle ... fixing the gasket also fixed my loss of power issue ... now i can spin tires all day lol
Jacob... take a propane torch and attach a long clear vinyl hose to the nossel. DO NOT LIGHT IT. Just crack open the valve to allow gas to escape. While the engine is running and at normal operating temp, put the end of the hose in areas of the intake tube, TB, and intake manifold to head mating surfaces. If the RPM rises, you've found a gasket leak.
Getting your engine or even mine to a long block (block + heads) is actually pretty easy and not that hard to do, just time consuming.
Getting your engine or even mine to a long block (block + heads) is actually pretty easy and not that hard to do, just time consuming.
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