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4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech General discussion of 4.0L OHV and SOHC V6 Ford Ranger engines.

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  #26  
Old 10-30-2009
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Originally Posted by God,Country,FORD View Post
Thanks everyone.. Just for ***** and giggles, gunna call the auto hobby shop on base and see how much the mechanics would charge to do the job.. the wife doesnt think i can do it in a week.. Lol.
I dont see why you couldn't have it done in a week. Unless you have a very limited time to work on it..
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  #27  
Old 10-30-2009
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well the wife made an appointment to get it done at the auto hobby shop(ase certified mechanics) they will have it done in two days.. 700 bucks, basically 11 hours of labor.. i was like i can do it for half that, just pay for the bay fees, she doesnt want to stress about it, so to make her happy it will be done by the professionals lol..
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  #28  
Old 10-30-2009
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$700, that's a damn good price.
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  #29  
Old 10-31-2009
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I sent you the instructions...

ASE Certification is a good thing, but just because they have the ceritification it doesn't mean they know how to do it. Anyone who studied for an ASE test could pass it. Are they Master Techs or what? I'd ask which ceritifications they had.
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  #30  
Old 10-31-2009
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Originally Posted by JDO808 View Post
Hopefully they send you a set of Felpro's that has everything included (including upper and lower intake gaskets.

Regarding the instructions, a Haynes Manual for bought at the local auto parts store would probably be the best bet. It has everything you'll need, including torque specs to do the job. And, thank yourself for not having the engine with the jackshaft and the multiple timing chains. The tools alone for the head run upwards of $300.
Haynes manual is a joke. The "torque specs" they give you read like this, "tighten between 75-100 ft lbs". That is a huge difference. The only thing they are good for is basic maintenance, and even then its a little sketchy
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  #31  
Old 10-31-2009
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I've used Haynes an Bentleys and have never had a problem. As far as torques specs go, it would depend on the shape of the bolt and the ft-lbs or in-lbs of stress being placed on the part. Also, is the part going to be subject to routine stress, like a connecting rod or applied stress, like the valve body that I just installed. To be honest, I have access to the factory instructions/manual, due to a friend on another site that is a master tech. They still give you a range of torque. Not a huge difference from the Haynes Manual that I have, with the exception that it goes step by step, with illustrations, instead of written text. To be on the safe side, I usually torque to the higher end of the spec, after I inspect the fastener. As far as head work, I have done head work on BMW's, yotas and fords using Haynes and Bentleys. With head bolts that are normally one use and are prone to stretching, typically the torque specs and instructions for replacement are very specific. Just my .02 cents. Haynes or Bentleys may not be the way to go for others.

Actually, I just went over my Ford PDF's, all ten of em, and they all have specific torque specs.

Last edited by JDO808; 10-31-2009 at 09:51 PM.
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  #32  
Old 10-31-2009
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The mechanics in the auto craft shops are usually older guys that know their stuff. They have always been able to help me.
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  #33  
Old 10-31-2009
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Just ask Horsepower TV. They'll show you how easy it is. It only takes a few minutes for them to do it.
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  #34  
Old 10-31-2009
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Originally Posted by Spc_Austin View Post
The mechanics in the auto craft shops are usually older guys that know their stuff. They have always been able to help me.
Yes, maybe they are good with carb's and old cars. Modern technology may kick their *** though.

As far as torque specs go, head's aren't a torque between two specs and you are ok, they are VERY specific and have to be done in a certain order and in steps.
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  #35  
Old 11-01-2009
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these guys know what they are doing, they have to.. ALL their work HAS to be warrantied. If something goes wrong because of something they did, they have to fix it no cost to you.. These guys are working for the Air Force and more specifically Directly for my Squadron.(Services) or as SPC Austin knows the army side as MWR.
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  #36  
Old 11-01-2009
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Originally Posted by God,Country,FORD View Post
these guys know what they are doing, they have to.. ALL their work HAS to be warrantied. If something goes wrong because of something they did, they have to fix it no cost to you.. These guys are working for the Air Force and more specifically Directly for my Squadron.(Services) or as SPC Austin knows the army side as MWR.
GCF,

Just remember, the mechanics may know what they are doing, but they are human and can and do make mistakes. I had my heads done by an ASE certified mechanic, and he forgot to RTV the front and rear where the block meets the head,( Toms99 posted about the same thing in his post on page one), and so I returned the truck and had to wait another 2.5 days for him to get another complete gasket kit and tear down and redo everything he did cuz of this one boo boo. Not a big deal, as it didn't cost me anything, but to be without your vehicle for another 3 days is kind of a pain in the butt.
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  #37  
Old 11-01-2009
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Originally Posted by ranger dad View Post
GCF,

Just remember, the mechanics may know what they are doing, but they are human and can and do make mistakes. I had my heads done by an ASE certified mechanic, and he forgot to RTV the front and rear where the block meets the head,( Toms99 posted about the same thing in his post on page one), and so I returned the truck and had to wait another 2.5 days for him to get another complete gasket kit and tear down and redo everything he did cuz of this one boo boo. Not a big deal, as it didn't cost me anything, but to be without your vehicle for another 3 days is kind of a pain in the butt.
Yep. It such an easy thing to do and it's easy to forget but it's a pain in the *** to tear down the engine back down to the heads.
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  #38  
Old 11-01-2009
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haha.. Im not going to lie, i REALLY want to do it myself.. BUT, Every time i do anything major myself, Random **** seems to go wrong lol.. I may just try to do it myself if the heads get here in time as i have leave schedualed before I am supposed to take the truck into the shop, and see if i can do it.. If i do great, if not, well its already schedualed to go into the shop lol.
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  #39  
Old 11-01-2009
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Ok, so this is what came in the mail on thursday.. Is it everything i need? The guy at the shop asked about an exhaust manifold gasket, and im not sure if i have it or not.. not really shure what any of this is, actually..

Oh, and i also got The head bolts..

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I know that the two gaskets that are leaning up against the window are the head gaskets, thats about it.. lol..
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  #40  
Old 11-01-2009
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You have em. The second shot, middle is your exhaust manifold gasket. As far as the gaskets for the lower exhaust maniold into the Y pipe, I don't see em, but you probably have em. If not, you can buy em for cheap (that is if you need it at all).
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  #41  
Old 11-02-2009
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The two silver and black gaskets are the two-piece lower intake to head gaskets. Those are the ones where you're going to want to put a lot of RTV on the front and back of the block to seal it so you don't leak oil. The completely silver gaskets on the left and right of the two intake gaskets are your exhaust manifold gaskets. The black and orange (red, whatever) are your valve cover gaskets.
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In the second picture you have the upper intake manifold to lower intake manifold gasket.
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In the third picture, the 6 gaskets that all look the same go in the upper intake itself. You'll notice it when you pull the upper intake and flip it over it will have the passages that look like that with those rubber rings in them. I believe the orange gasket is your thorrtle body gasket and I think the little black one is the Idle Air Control Valve gasket.
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The 6 little black o-rings are new injector o-rings.
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The little green o-ring in the last picture goes over the tube that comes off the EGR and goes up into the upper intake manifold. Use vaseline or petroleum jelly on it so when you install the upper intake the hole slides over it nicely. If you don't and you crimp it, you will have a nice little leak and it will cost you $7.00 from Ford for a new one. I don't remember what the other gaskets go to but they are labeled in the instructions I sent you.

Oh, and pay attention to the head gaskets. They are side-specific, one is the left and one is the right.
Hopefully that helps...
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  #42  
Old 11-03-2009
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hey do you guys recommend replacing the thermostat and water pump? The truck has just under 86K on it.. The guy at the shop says i need to replace the water pump and the thermostat? What brands do you guys suggest if so? Freaking Motorcraft's waterpump is DOUBLE what the other brands are..
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  #43  
Old 11-03-2009
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Duralast from AZ is what I used. I went ahead and replaced the water pump and t-stat since you'll be right there looking at it. Easy to replace, but there's a couple bolts under the water pump that are hard to get to.
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  #44  
Old 11-03-2009
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u said duralast for the water pump?
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  #45  
Old 11-03-2009
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Ya. That's what I used.
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  #46  
Old 11-03-2009
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Originally Posted by God,Country,FORD View Post
Thanks everyone.. Just for ***** and giggles, gunna call the auto hobby shop on base and see how much the mechanics would charge to do the job.. the wife doesnt think i can do it in a week.. Lol.
i done mine in a day took me 5 hours

Quote:
Originally Posted by God,Country,FORD View Post
well the wife made an appointment to get it done at the auto hobby shop(ase certified mechanics) they will have it done in two days.. 700 bucks, basically 11 hours of labor.. i was like i can do it for half that, just pay for the bay fees, she doesnt want to stress about it, so to make her happy it will be done by the professionals lol..
2 days and 700.00 wow i forgot how much mechacs charge
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  #47  
Old 11-04-2009
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yeah they are charging $60/hour for 10 hours.. so it is around 600-650 actually.. i will try to do it myself and see what happens, dont have anything to loose lol
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