O2, MAF, or IAC>
O2, MAF, or IAC>
Hi! I have a 1994 Ranger with a 4.0L. It is nearing the 250K Mile mark, so I don't expect it to run like new, but, except for the following issues, it runs really well. I have replaced the MAF sensor.. twice. I have replaced the O2 Sensors. New plugs, wires, coils. Here are my issues:
*First, with the MAF sensor plugged-in, the idle is irregular, which I could live with, were that the only problem. However, when trying to maintain a cruise-speed down the interstate, the engine will radically lose power for no apparent reason. The only two solutions are: 1) letting off the gas, then jamming it to the floor, which works for a few seconds, before I have to do it all over again; or 2) Pulling over, popping the hood, and disconnecting the MAF Sensor plug. Which is how I've been operating it, honestly, for several months, now. I mean, it just runs more reliably, that way. But, I know it's not correct.. leading to problem set #2:
It runs more reliably with the MAF sensor disconnected. It lags a tiny bit, when still warming up to operating temp, but after that, it's a beast. Unless it has to idle for any length of time. In-gear, or in-neutral/park, if it's idling (usually smoothly, as a rule) it will die without any warning. No rough idle, no rich or lean smell. Immediate stall. But, put it in park or neutral, and it will instantly restart, like nothing was ever wrong.
Again, if it was just me driving it, I'd just deal with it. But, it's soon to be my 16-year-old's first ride. The steering/suspension/windshield, fuel pump.... replacing all of those parts, before he gets it. Those things I can deal with. But, I'd like some opinions, about this engine issue.
Thanks!
Ryan
*First, with the MAF sensor plugged-in, the idle is irregular, which I could live with, were that the only problem. However, when trying to maintain a cruise-speed down the interstate, the engine will radically lose power for no apparent reason. The only two solutions are: 1) letting off the gas, then jamming it to the floor, which works for a few seconds, before I have to do it all over again; or 2) Pulling over, popping the hood, and disconnecting the MAF Sensor plug. Which is how I've been operating it, honestly, for several months, now. I mean, it just runs more reliably, that way. But, I know it's not correct.. leading to problem set #2:
It runs more reliably with the MAF sensor disconnected. It lags a tiny bit, when still warming up to operating temp, but after that, it's a beast. Unless it has to idle for any length of time. In-gear, or in-neutral/park, if it's idling (usually smoothly, as a rule) it will die without any warning. No rough idle, no rich or lean smell. Immediate stall. But, put it in park or neutral, and it will instantly restart, like nothing was ever wrong.
Again, if it was just me driving it, I'd just deal with it. But, it's soon to be my 16-year-old's first ride. The steering/suspension/windshield, fuel pump.... replacing all of those parts, before he gets it. Those things I can deal with. But, I'd like some opinions, about this engine issue.
Thanks!
Ryan
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