Ohv Underdrive Pulley Install - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech General discussion of 4.0L OHV and SOHC V6 Ford Ranger engines.

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  #1  
Old 12-24-2005
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Ohv Underdrive Pulley Install

If you're removing your belt driven fan (i.e. don't have an efan)
a real lifesaver is to rent (no cost) a Fan Clutch Wrench Set from Autozone.
Good instructions are here:
http://underdog-performance.com/id92.html

Last edited by damonart; 12-25-2005 at 12:02 AM.
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Old 12-24-2005
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Damonart recommended the following addendums:

Add to STEP 7
Insert a longer smaller diameter bolt into the crankshaft pulley bolt
hole so that the large center bolt of the Harmonic Balancer Puller will
have something to push against.

between STEP 7 & 8

Immerse the New Crankshaft Pulley in Boiling Water for 15 minutes. This
will expand the hub to make installation easier.

If anyone needs advice on this we may have our first expert. Thanks Damon.
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Old 12-25-2005
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Also added- save some grief and get the free rental from autozone to remove the fan.
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Old 12-25-2005
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Finished the Installation

Overall installation including cleanup took 3 hours.
Installation as follows:

First I removed the K&N FIPK air tube and the factory fan belt.
Using a rubber strap wrench to hold the waterpump pulley I used a 1.5" wrench on the clutch fan hex shaft and tapped on the wrench lightly with a ballpean hammer.... VVVWHALA the shaft was loose. The hex shaft unscrews CCW off of the waterpump hub.
Removed the shroud and clutch fan at the same time.
Next came the crankshaft pulley... the bolts that came in the ASP kit for removal were TOO long..... Needed to locate (2) 8x1.25x100mm bolts, screwed them into the crankshaft pulley and used a harmonic balancer puller and it too was removed.
Removed oil seal from the factory pulley, installed the factory oil seal on the ASP pulley, applied a small dab of RTV to the hub key, warmed up the ASP pulley hub and put a little synthetic grease on the crank hub, pressed the ASP pulley on half way with the provided ASP bolt and the remainder of the way with the factory bolt. Torqued the bolt to 80ft lbs.
Reinstalled the shroud and clutch fan.
Installed a new Gatorback POLY-V belt 6PK2195 (4606865) which is exactly 1.9" shorter than the factory belt.
There is quite a noticable difference in acceleration..... Time will tell if there is any increase in MPG.

OR 4x4

Last edited by OffRoad 4x4; 12-26-2005 at 01:15 AM.
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Old 12-25-2005
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I sent an e-mail off to the manufacturer about the bolt deal. Until it is resolved I am gonna link this discussion to anyone that purchases the pulley.
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  #6  
Old 12-25-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OffRoad 4x4
Overall installation including cleanup took 3 hours.
Installation as follows:

Next came the crankshaft pulley... the bolts that came in the ASP kit for removal were TOO long.....
The bolts are not too long, they work fine:
When I did mine I initially thought that the bolts that came in the ASP kit for removal were too long as I incorrectly assumed that the puller should be tight against the Crankshaft Pulley.

Then I looked again at the photo in the Haynes Manual which shows the puller installed more than an inch away from the Crankshaft Pulley and realized that the puller is pulling out against the bolt heads and it doesn't matter if it is close to the pulley (pulling pressure against the bolt heads screwed into the pulley/pushing pressure on the long bolt inserted into the crank shaft).

It's actually better that the bolts are a bit long as you can see to screw them in easier.

Last edited by damonart; 12-25-2005 at 11:05 PM.
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  #7  
Old 12-26-2005
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There is a clearance issue between the harmonic balancer removal tool shaft and the back of the radiator.... You dont want the plate moved too far away from the face of the harmonic balancer...The shorter bolts worked better for me !!!

OR 4x4
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Old 12-26-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OffRoad 4x4
There is a clearance issue between the harmonic balancer removal tool shaft and the back of the radiator.... You dont want the plate moved too far away from the face of the harmonic balancer...The shorter bolts worked better for me !!!

OR 4x4
Right, the clearance is very small from the removal tool shaft to the radiator, about 1/4" on mine. BUT the removal tool shaft doesn't change position during removal, it just rotates, only the crankshaft pulley and plate move and after the pulley was completely off, there was plenty of clearance to take it out. I'm just saying that the bolts supplied w the pulley do work ok. Just a matter of preference.
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Old 12-26-2005
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from another forum. He got the tool new for $15 to remove the fan. Had both the hex shaft wrench and the pulley holding wrench. Brand new so nothing is rounded out:

ya, i went to advance(discount) auto parts because autozone didnt have it. it has the fan clutch nut wrench and the fan clutch holding wrench (water pump bolts one)
its made by AmPro #T75508, it was $14.99 plus tax down here
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Old 12-30-2005
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Well it's my turn. I'll be putting mine on over the weekend. Looks like the trouble spots have been identified. Wish me luck. I'll be taking pics along the way. I did a base dyno last week and I'll be going back this week if all is well.
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Old 12-30-2005
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cant wait to see the dyno results!...what did you put out for your baseline and what mods where on during the baseline?
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Old 12-30-2005
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I am working on adding the dyno sheet to the site so it will be visible soon. The base run was 181 HP and 216 Torque. This is all stock. I have a dual catback and black magic E-fan, but have been waiting on the pulley dyno to put them on. I have had these things for a long time now so it's been a long wait for me. I put on fresh motorcraft plugs and a set of underdog plug wires and fresh royal purple oil. It's a 2004 SOHC Manual with 45,000 miles on it.

SInce the Mustang has been done with the same motor/pulley, I am actually installing a 3 piece pulley on mine. I should hit higher than what the Mustang did.

My base run is about 9 HP more than the Mustang 4.0 dyno I have published. The Mustang was an automatic. It gained 12 HP and 16 Torque with the pulley.

I'll put up a link once I get the dyno loaded.
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Old 12-30-2005
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base run on 4.0 manual 4x4 ranger:
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  #14  
Old 12-30-2005
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nice...what is included with this 3 piece pulley your talking about?
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Old 12-31-2005
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I can underdrive the waterpump with a new pulley and underdrive the alt with another pulley, essentially creating a 3pc power pulley set. If you need more amps, we can overdrive the alternator.

The two extra underdrive pulleys will be $75 total for the two of them. I'll have more info this coming week.
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Old 12-31-2005
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Fans off. That was simple. I tried a large cresent but it was too thick. I went to the parts store and bought the fan kit for $20. It took all of 2 minutes.

The crank bolt is next. It says 18 mm which is too small. I'm using a 19 mm. I can't get an impact wrench in there without removing the radiator or risking damage to the radiator. The one I have is pistol shaped. Still thinking on this.
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  #17  
Old 12-31-2005
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All done except the belt and reinstalling the fan. The water pump pulley did not fit. I was trying to use a mustang pulley. The hole spacing was different as well as the position of the belt. I've got the stats now so I will see what the cost would be to get some made.

I am gonna repackage these pulleys with some different bolts. Reinstalling the pulley needs no heating with a simple change that will be included in all future orders. It went in easy once the realization was made..
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  #18  
Old 12-31-2005
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srart a new thread with some pics if possible.
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  #19  
Old 12-31-2005
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Working on it. Just took her around the block. She felt pretty good.
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Old 12-31-2005
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