I have a 91 ranger with the 4.0, getting the 14 code pip. I replaced the crank position sensor, tps (with a standard tps)and the ignition control module and the EDIS, yet still receiving code. It would run fine, a lil misfire while idling but once it reached operational temp it would shut off, I recently replaced the computer to see if that was the issue, and we'll it didn't turn off by itself but still a small misfire and when I turn it off after warm and try to restart it, it starts but I have to hold the gas pedal down to keep it running. And yes I'm still getting pip code. Any ideas?

 

EDIS modules rarely fail
Wires on the other hand do get brittle

1994 and earlier Computers are often the issue because the 3 capacitors inside leak, but under $5 to replace
Open your old computer and check out the 3 blue capacitors, seen here: Ford EEC-IV
Wiggle each with finger, one wire is often broken, or leak is obvious
Any "used" computer can be just as bad or worse


You can test the PIP wire from EDIS to computer
Pin 56 on computer to pin 1 on EDIS, should be a grey/orange stripe wire in 1991

EDIS gets the timing pulse from Crank sensor, its an AC Volt signal, generated by the sensor
EDIS starts spark when it gets this timing signal
So if you were to spray fuel into the engine, it should start/fire if crank sensor and EDIS are working

EDIS sends out the timing signal to computer on pin 1, PIP, and computer(pin 56) uses that signal to time fuel injectors, no timing signal then no injectors and engine would stall or not start

There is no connection between starter motor and EDIS or Computer, so only way EDIS or computer knows that YOU want to start the engine, is when BOTH get the timing pulse

Watch the CEL(check engine light), it should come on with key on
It should go OFF when computer sees a timing pulse, i.e. when cranking engine over CEL should go OFF, even if there are codes in memory, it will come back on if there are codes, but be OFF when cranking..........IF its getting a timing pulse from EDIS

 

I went out and plugged in the code reader once again, battery on I got codes 23, 16, 85, and 14. As to why I asking about pip.

I turned on my truck and got codes 21,23, 41, and 74

i decided I let it run for a while to warm up the truck to see what codes I may get if different, and all codes went away, I got code 12, 23, and 74

Code 12 -rpm out of range/high
Code 13 - rpm at idle out of range/low
code 14- pip
​code 16- rpm to low to test hego
. - idle rpm high with is retracted
. - rpm above self test limit with isc off
Code 21 - cooling temp sensor out of range
Code 23 - tps out of range
Code 41 - 02 sensor voltage low
Code 74 - Boo switch fault
Code 85- canister purge circuit failure
. - shift solenoid 3/4- 4/3

I'll do the tests you suggest to make sure, but I'm leaning towards the tps being faulty ( read online people are having issues with the " Standard" brand tps.

Now you know everything see, what would you suggest?

 

There are 3 wires on TPS
5volt
Signal return
ground

Test voltage, key on, 5v comes from computer, most of the other sensors use this same 5volts
Signal return voltage should be .69-.99v with throttle closed, 4.5v with wide open throttle

Yes, non-Motorcraft TPS or IAC Valve can cause problems

ODD codes that come and go are usually a sign of computer issue, i.e. capacitors

 

Thanks man, I tested the tps as you said, 5v going in, .29v return throttle closed, 2.75v wide open

The computer is a pre programmed, refurbished from part geek. It took most problems away when I replaced it. Which is a good sign. New tps on its way. I get it tomorrow. Unfortunately it's the same brand so wish me luck.

 

I changed out the tps with a Motorcraft tps. The standard wasn't putting out enough for my truck to run properly and it now runs like a brand new truck. Runs and drives beautifully.

But,...... there is always a but.... I get about 1/4 mile down the road and just shuts off... thats it just shuts completely off... it restarts and drives no problem but once I get about a 1/4 mile it shuts off again. Could this be a start to a bad alternator? The battery is all tight and so it the ground with no corrosion what so ever.

 

Alternator powers the whole truck when engine is running, voltage is at 13.5 to 14.5volts
If alternator fails the battery takes over, 12.3 to 12.8volts, but engine would keep on running

Alternators always run at a higher voltage than batteries to keep battery charged
But vehicle can run fine without alternator working until voltage in the battery runs down below 10volts or so

Clean the Power distribution post on the inner fender
Follow battery positive cable to this post, there will be several other wires on that same post, disconnect battery cable from battery FIRST
Then remove all the wires on the post and clean them, then re-install them
This is where ALL the power passes thru to the vehicle, from battery AND alternator both, its the power distribution post

Does it only stall when engine is cold, and is it the same few minutes of driving, 1/4 mile does tell how long the engine has been running or it it was already warmed up or still cold