Rear Oil Seal on 2004 4.0L
#1
Rear Oil Seal on 2004 4.0L
I'm replacing the clutch, slave, etc right now. Tranny is off, and clutch is off. I'm about to take off the flywheel. Should I replace the rear main seal? (you better have a good reason to say no..) If so the I have three questions.
First, do I need this seal replacement tool? (to push in the new seal)
Second, Is this a one piece deal, meaning do I have to remove the oil pan?
Third, I heard the original factory finish on the rear crankshaft snout seal surface was finished too smooth, so the rubber seal can't hold back the oil. (which is why so many 4.0L leak) Ford offers a "repair kit" that comes with a sleeve that has a rougher sealing surface that slips over the snout of the crankshaft, and a larger inner diameter rubber rear seal (p/n F5TZ-6701-A), but the kit costs about $60 at the dealership vs $20 for a "regular" seal. Any truth to this rough vs smooth seal business? (I heard there was a TSB on this, but I cannot find it, anyone have it?)
Thx
First, do I need this seal replacement tool? (to push in the new seal)
Second, Is this a one piece deal, meaning do I have to remove the oil pan?
Third, I heard the original factory finish on the rear crankshaft snout seal surface was finished too smooth, so the rubber seal can't hold back the oil. (which is why so many 4.0L leak) Ford offers a "repair kit" that comes with a sleeve that has a rougher sealing surface that slips over the snout of the crankshaft, and a larger inner diameter rubber rear seal (p/n F5TZ-6701-A), but the kit costs about $60 at the dealership vs $20 for a "regular" seal. Any truth to this rough vs smooth seal business? (I heard there was a TSB on this, but I cannot find it, anyone have it?)
Thx
#2
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I did two clutch jobs (damn slave) on my 01 by the time it was wrecked with 132k on it. I did the first clutch job on our replacement 04 at 96k, that one now has 160k.....never did the rear main any of the times. If it's not leaking, I would not touch it.
Odds are you'll be doing the slave anyway in 75k or so!
Odds are you'll be doing the slave anyway in 75k or so!
#6
#8
#9
Flywheel bolts:
-Stage 1: Tighten the bolts to (10 lb-ft).
-Stage 2: Tighten the bolts to (52 lb-ft).
Pressure Plate: 20 lb/ft
Bell Housing: 41 lb/ft
Driveshaft:
-Bolts retaining the driveshaft to front axle yoke: 11-15
-Bolts retaining the front driveshaft constant velocity joint to transfer case flange: 22
-Bolts retaining the driveshaft flange to rear axle pinion flange: 83
-Bolts retaining the rear driveshaft flange to transfer case rear output flange: 82
-Stage 1: Tighten the bolts to (10 lb-ft).
-Stage 2: Tighten the bolts to (52 lb-ft).
Pressure Plate: 20 lb/ft
Bell Housing: 41 lb/ft
Driveshaft:
-Bolts retaining the driveshaft to front axle yoke: 11-15
-Bolts retaining the front driveshaft constant velocity joint to transfer case flange: 22
-Bolts retaining the driveshaft flange to rear axle pinion flange: 83
-Bolts retaining the rear driveshaft flange to transfer case rear output flange: 82
#11
#12
I just replaced the rear main on my sohc and I was wondering exactly how far do you push the seal in the sealing surface? I very gently tapped it until it went to the stopping point. Using the old seal to tap it in. I was very gentle in putting it in as not to damage it. Also the seal is a timken so quality is of no concern here. It wasn't leaking before but I do not want to do this again later, so I'm doing it anyway.
New rear main seal
New rear main seal
Last edited by Alex98; 06-10-2013 at 06:25 PM.
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