Rear Oil Seal on 2004 4.0L - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #1  
Old 10-28-2011
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Rear Oil Seal on 2004 4.0L

I'm replacing the clutch, slave, etc right now. Tranny is off, and clutch is off. I'm about to take off the flywheel. Should I replace the rear main seal? (you better have a good reason to say no..) If so the I have three questions.

First, do I need this seal replacement tool? (to push in the new seal)

Second, Is this a one piece deal, meaning do I have to remove the oil pan?

Third, I heard the original factory finish on the rear crankshaft snout seal surface was finished too smooth, so the rubber seal can't hold back the oil. (which is why so many 4.0L leak) Ford offers a "repair kit" that comes with a sleeve that has a rougher sealing surface that slips over the snout of the crankshaft, and a larger inner diameter rubber rear seal (p/n F5TZ-6701-A), but the kit costs about $60 at the dealership vs $20 for a "regular" seal. Any truth to this rough vs smooth seal business? (I heard there was a TSB on this, but I cannot find it, anyone have it?)

Thx
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Old 10-29-2011
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Anyone know of a Ford Certified Mech on this forum that I can PM? I'm surprised no one has said anything about my first two questions, but my last question my be best answered by a Ford Certified Mech. Thanks.
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Old 10-29-2011
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Yes you should replace the rear main seal
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Old 10-29-2011
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I did two clutch jobs (damn slave) on my 01 by the time it was wrecked with 132k on it. I did the first clutch job on our replacement 04 at 96k, that one now has 160k.....never did the rear main any of the times. If it's not leaking, I would not touch it.

Odds are you'll be doing the slave anyway in 75k or so!
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Old 10-29-2011
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yea if it isnt leaking leave it alone
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Old 10-29-2011
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You should not replace the rear main seal if it is not leaking. There is a better chance that it will leak if you replace it without the tool.

TSB 95-1-8 is for 1990-1004 4.0 pushrod motors only

-Your Ford certified mechanic lol

Last edited by Toreador4x4; 10-29-2011 at 03:01 PM.
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Old 10-29-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toreador4x4 View Post
You should not replace the rear main seal if it is not leaking. There is a better chance that it will leak if you replace it without the tool.

TSB 95-1-8 is for 1990-1004 4.0 pushrod motors only

-Your Ford certified mechanic lol
OK cool, please let me know what you find.
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Old 10-29-2011
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Would someone be kind enough to tell me the torque specs for the following:

-Flywheel bolts
-Clutch Pressure Plate (cover) bolts
-Tranny Bell Housing bolts
-Is there a spec for the driveshaft (front & rear) bolts?
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Old 10-30-2011
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Flywheel bolts:
-Stage 1: Tighten the bolts to (10 lb-ft).
-Stage 2: Tighten the bolts to (52 lb-ft).

Pressure Plate: 20 lb/ft

Bell Housing: 41 lb/ft

Driveshaft:
-Bolts retaining the driveshaft to front axle yoke: 11-15
-Bolts retaining the front driveshaft constant velocity joint to transfer case flange: 22
-Bolts retaining the driveshaft flange to rear axle pinion flange: 83
-Bolts retaining the rear driveshaft flange to transfer case rear output flange: 82
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  #10  
Old 10-30-2011
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If its not leaking, I never touch it.
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Old 10-30-2011
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Wirelessly posted

Quote:
Originally Posted by pcollins
If its not leaking, I never touch it.
Dude your sick! If it's leaking don't touch it. If it ain't leaking touch Er all you please.
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Old 06-10-2013
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I just replaced the rear main on my sohc and I was wondering exactly how far do you push the seal in the sealing surface? I very gently tapped it until it went to the stopping point. Using the old seal to tap it in. I was very gentle in putting it in as not to damage it. Also the seal is a timken so quality is of no concern here. It wasn't leaking before but I do not want to do this again later, so I'm doing it anyway.


New rear main seal
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Rear Oil Seal on 2004 4.0L-img_0843_zps9ea62113.jpg  

Last edited by Alex98; 06-10-2013 at 07:25 PM.
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