After 100,000 miles, I'm finally starting to leak motor oil. I wouldn't really care if it wasn't for the smell of it dripping on the exhaust and making a mess of my parking area. So I kinda want to do something to at least slow it down. I use full synthetic too which I'm sure isn't helping this situation.

All the oil is astern of the engine, running down the bottom of the transmision. It is definately motor oil, no trans fluid or anything. There is no oil I can see up high on the engine block or anywhere else. This leads me to believe it is probably the rear main seal (once again, FML). Are there any other typical culprits, preferably ones easy for me to check and eliminate as a possibility? I seem to remember someone saying something about the PCV valve being stuck and creating crank case pressure that is blowing oil out.

If it is the rear main, are any of those crankcase leak stopping additives decent and not prone to screwing up other parts of the engine? I run full synthetic if it makes a difference. And/or, is there an oil I can safely run in this engine that will be less prone to leaking as bad as the normal full synthetic I use now?

Before anyone suggests it, no I am not going to drop the transmision and fix it right now. I don't have the time, money, or facilities to do that. My old '84 Ranger leaked so bad, I had to run 20W-50 year round to keep it from falling out the bottom as I poured it in the top. If I lived with that, I can live with this, I just want to slow it down.

 

My friend's Subaru leaked from some .50 o rings this winter. I planned on replacing them (pulling engine and trans) but tried some Bar's stop leak to buy her some time as this was just her winter beater.

This stuff worked GREAT, it went from leaking about 5qts (she finally asked me when her light came on) every 2-3 weeks to nothing. I hate using patches like that, but this stuff did work pretty good.

Bar's Leaks Rear Main Seal

 

Yeah that Bar's stuff is the best one, they swell up the seals and it stops it from leaking most of the time. If that PCV thing is true why dont you just pull the PCV valve out and shake it to hear if its stuck or not, should only take a minute.

 

A friend had a similar leak recently. We got a flashlight and looked around. We found a wash out area at the CPS where it was coming from. We removed it and reinstalled it. I think that fixed it.

 

dont trust that "fix it ****"

didnt help my head gasket lol

 

Alright. So tonight's fun:

- Gym after work
- Advance Auto Parts (they're open late) for bars and a PCV valve
- Headlight bulbs and if they have it, a 9007 socket since my HID's broke too and I need to put the normal bulbs back in (FML again)

 

Did you fix the front diff leak also? Seems to me your trucks over the hill... IMO

 

Nope. This is all going to be attacked next week. Which reminds me, I should make a more complete shopping list here:

- 30 case of bud light for the mechanic
- Front pinion seal
- RTV for the diff cover
- Gear oil
- PCV valve
- Bars stop-leak
- 9007 socket and (2) silverstars
- Bottle of Smirnoff and some ice tea!!

It may be over the hill but it hasn't had a single mechanical problem since the day I bought it. Its almost 7 years old and its just as good and reliable as the day I bought it. I think it is allowed to drip some oil after 100,000 miles of beatdowns.

 

well cant go wrong good luck

 

Have you thought about giving Auto Rx a try?