I have a 1995 ranger 4.0 OHV 4x4 and the engine is toast(valve disintegrated).
I have found a 1994 4.0 OHV from an explorer. Can I use this motor with all the electronic in my 1995 truck? Truck has plastic manifold and new/old motor has aluminum one.

 

Yes, should be plug and play.

But...........always a but, the 1995 has the IAT(intake air temp) sensor in with the MAF sensor(6 wire MAF) the 1994 had the IAT sensor on the upper intake(4 wire MAF) so that just won't be hooked up, so don't knock your self out looking for the wire for it.

I think all the other plugs are the same but can't say for sure,
i.e. the IAC valves 2 wire plug on the wire should match the new intake's IAC Valve plug in.

Same for fuel injectors, ECT sensor, ECT sender, and TPS(throttle position sensor).
Worse case is you would have to swap the lower and upper intakes with injectors.

1994 probably doesn't have a Cam Position Sensor(CPS) unless it was from California.
Your 1995 will have and need one.
On the 1994 there is a plug in the block that will need to be remove and pulled out, it will have a gear that drives the oil pump via Cam.
And pull out the CPS housing on the 1995, you will see same set up gear and oil pump drive.
The CPS needs to be timed to the new engine when installed.
The bushings in these wear out so you may just want to get a new one.

Google: ford 4.0 camshaft synchronizer

Thats the fancy name for it

You will need to check out the CPS a little more, I did read 1995 CPS won't work on 1994, so you may need to get 1994 CPS

 

Would it just be easier to user he plastic plenum? I will look into the CPS issue. There is also something screed into the front lower drivers side of the block. It's black plastic(broken on mine). I'll get a pic. Not sure what it is, and isn't on my 1995 engine

 

That's on the 1995

 

On 1994 engine

 

The picture for 1995 is of the CPS

The picture of the 1994 shows the oil pressure sender
Seen in this diagram: | Repair Guides | Sending Units | Oil Pressure Sender And Switch | AutoZone.com

Yes, swapping lower and upper intake from 1995 engine to 1994 engine would mean everything would match up, wires and vacuum hoses

 

Thanks Ron! I'm sure there will be more to come! The cylinder walls look good on the replacement engine, previous owner said it had 200k on it. Think I should hone and re-ring? Heads look good too, going to disassemble, clean, replace valve seals and lap.

 

I had a machinist tell me that lapping in shouldn't be done because even though the valves fit when they are cold from the procedure, when the engine reaches normal operating temperature, the valves don't seat properly any more, or at least not as well as they should from a proper grinding procedure.

The other problem is that the small bits of carbide in the lapping grease can get embedded in the seat and valve face and no amount of cleaning can get rid of this.
These bits of carbide cause hot spots on the exhaust valve eventually causing pitting and premature failure.

With that said, I've been lapping valves in too and the given engine runs fine, it's just that this something that has always stuck in my head.

Found this, I guess it depends how fussy you are and how deep your pockets are... (the long post and the photo after it)

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=980840