UPDATE!

Finally got the DS Head finished. Springs set at spec hieght and got the Valves Lapped while i was at it. Just worked for a couple hrs str8 to bang it out. One more step closer. I still have to get that dam bolt removed!!

Well here are some pics. Dont want people waiting lol haha

Finished Head!
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Except This lil guy is really holding me up... ugh
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Bedlined the chrome cover i got after scratchin it up a bit. All installed
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Painted the starter for the hell of it.
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If attempting this swap in this way...be organized!! lol
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its getting smaller
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Just got back from the JY. Very succesful trip!!

Pulled
98 Full Column in good/great shape
With Gauge Cluster. Heck while its out maybe ill do the LED mode =] 98' plug n play?
Power steering fluid resevior cooler hose
trans cooler to radiatior hard line and hose.
AC heater Hoses
Complete rear axle braklines

Will have pics shortly.

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My only problem that i have to fix is the OD swith cover.
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just picked up motor mounts and plates!! Getting closer everyday!!

Thinking about re-using my radiator. Mudslanger did it and havent heard any issues yet. good idea or no?

Also that 98 cluster will plug n play correct or no?

i would just go with the explorer one. its a 4core and the Ranger is only 2core. Its fine until you start beatn on it hard or tow somthing then thats when having the bigger rad comes in handy

makes sense.

Today's factory replacement part for the radiator for the 5.0L is very similar to the later Ranger radiator like yours. Although the core is thinner than the original, the fin density is higher and there is an internal difference in the tubes as well. Ford claims that the cooling efficiency of the improved radiator matches the earlier radiator even though it is 1/2 as thick. I have been using the later/thinner 5.0 radiator with the supercharger without any problems at all.

On the negative side, you need to think about the internal heat exchanger for the auto transmission that your manual radiator lacks. Some owners run the auto with just an external liquid-to-air heat exchanger without the one in the radiator but, IMO, it would be better to have both. Benefits are quicker transmission warmups and more protection from overtemping the trans fluid in extreme conditions.

sooo EXP raditor it is lol

Broke down the Steering column tonight as much as I could. Once again I pulled it from a 98 Mountaineer.

Is this PATS Transponder.. Siemens.
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It went around the Key tumbler, and it def broke off and had a wire inside the plastic.

Anyway key tumbler had to be drilled out since i didnt have the key (obvisouly)

Already pulled off the gauges to start sanding for new Color =]. not gonna do the full led mod cause im really not into sodering that much at all. just gonna pick up all new bulbs.

Good News Im gonna be upgradeing to a tilt column lol Really want a different shift arm. i can wire the OD buttom somewhere else and its busted anyway.

Ordered my 194 leds today. 10 off ebay for 6 bucks. watev. Also got my transparent glass paint for the gauges. Work on that tmw night along with getting the column plastics all cleaned and painted.

Any ideas on the pics above about PATS?

The first picture is the PATS transceiver. Are you using PATS or is it cal'd out in the PCM?

In the clockspring harness, there is a wire to a wiper in blue plastic that is for the ignition key sense. You have to pull the lock first and be careful not to break the blue plastic when removing the clockspring harness.

Pats is getting wiped out. I made sure not to break of the ky sense when i took out the tumbler. Thanks tho!

I have some pullers at home but i couldnt seem to be able to get the wheel of. do i need a certain one?

I used a medium sized generic 2-jaw on mine. There should be reinforced pull points cast into the wheel at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock IIRC.

thats what i have and they just kept slipping off. I got it moved about 1/4". Ill try again tonight. Def should be able to get the cluster close to done today.

Final Checklist ( i hope)

Rear rotors/pads
ECM Tune
Radiator / hoses
Exhaust
Trans Cooler lines..

SOOO CLOSE!!!!

If you keep moving at the pace you have been going..you will be done in no time! The beautiful Florida weather sure helps out alot! Its been Cold and Rainy my way. Keep posting your progress!

Got Gauges done!

before
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after
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Went with Blue for Numbers, temp guage, batt etc. and white for lines.. kept stock indicator lights.

well i totally lost my wallet this past weekend sooo no buying parts until my new cards come in lol

update.. still waiting on the head to be done.. kinda getting annoying cuz i could have had the damn engine at least build buy now.

sorry no updates lately. takin the rear end to my buddy over at DV8 motorsports to have the perches and shock tabs welded up this saturday. Friday ill be measuring and finding all the right angles etc.

Brake pedal question?? Can I just take out my clutch and leave that brake pedal? I see there is electrical connections on both the brake and clutch.

In the manual setup, the clutch pedal is one piece with the shaft that is the pivot for the brake pedal. I just sawed off most of my clutch pedal arm and reused the rest of the arm/shaft along with the stock manual brake pedal. Alternatively, you could buy the wider auto brake pedal and the simpler factory auto pivot shaft.

The electrical switch for the clutch pedal switch needs to be jumped out to allow the starter and cruise control to work without the clutch pedal. There is a factory jumper plug that is used in the automatic trucks but I wasn't able to find the number in the parts system.

thanks bob. where would I find it in an auto so I can go pull one from the JY?

I crawled under the dash of an Auto Ranger and found the plug-in with the Jumper plug in the mix of wires coming thru the fire wall... The local Junkyard has a 4.0 Exploder I can get one off of tomorrow if you need me too. Just let me know. I will send it to you for free...won't cost a buck or so to send it and I wanna go look around anywayz.

Heck ya thanks man sounds great Ill send you 5 bukcs