That sounds awesome! I wish that whoever did my swap originally would have done these things to the 5.0 in my truck... Im really not a "stock" kinda guy, and although the V8 is a really cool addition, it would've been nice to have a little more performance from it. If this engine ever dies or gets too tired, I'll build a mild 347 stroker for it and run that. It won't be anything crazy though, maybe some FRPP heads, an E series or Comp cam, and the torque monsters. The factory GT-40 intakes would stay since they flow well anyway. Only thing I might do to them is a gasket match to reduce turbulence.

looking good so far!

Thanks! I got all the springs on one head set with correct bushings and takin off again for and bagged for each. I gotta pick up some valve lapping compound and get these these takin care of before they go in for good. My broinlaw took the other one to the water plant to see if the machinists could get my broken bolt out. I have pics but there on my phone...Need to make another list for Maticulous little things.

Out with the old
Attachment 125069
IN with the new.
Attachment 125070
=] i had too
Attachment 125071
Attachment 125072

Purdy!

So i need a basic list of stuff to get with the Autozone giftcard. Make me a Engine Assembly shopping list.

rtv sealant...

Those Scorpion rockers?

Progress looks good man, keep it up!

they are Proform. got them from summit. the look good. not the lightedt thing but strong and rebuildable so not too shabby. Im waiting on that broken bolt to come out and then I can really start putting everything together again.

maybe some ATF for the cylinder walls since the motor has ran in a while. ummmm, engine assymbly lube for moving parts that have not yet been lubricated by oil. rtv, oil, and misc orings, freeze plugs, seals, gaskets. thats all i could think of for now.

Well what i did was kept the same bolt/washers but i took off the nyloc lock nut and put in a smaller lock nut(the nut where the hole is not completely round but oval). Also I decided to take both washers(originaly 1 on each side) and i put BOTH of the washers on the bolt head side. I have no washer on the nut side now. This gave me plenty of clearance and it works great.

thanks!

My headers came in last week and they required a signature so my sister was supposed to go pick those up today. I live half the week with Mal and my engine is at my place lol

Still Need.

ECM and reflash
Radiator
4r70w w/ oil lines and cooler
shift kit
8.8
Motor mounts
going to get all new waterpump/bypass/radiator hoses too just to avoid any cracks or rust/crud buildup inside
AC Lines

Not bad!!

BACK ON EXHAUST!

I think i might have found our X-pipe Solution. I am definetly going to get this and give it a shot.

Dynomax® Performance Mufflers: Ultra Flo™ X
2 1/2" Dual inlet/Dual Outlet.

Still deciding if i want dual pipes exiting infront of the rear passenger tire or behind it. Im really over the traditional style dual exhaust.

I have a MagnaFlow DI/DO 2.5" with internal crossover on mine. Similar construction compared to the Dynomax but with a larger shell in all dimensions (5 x 11 x 22). The Dynomax should be slightly easier to package under a Ranger. Still, with a muffler that large, It might not be possible to exit the pipes in front of the rear tire without curving them back on themselves first.

yea thats tru. hmm. guess ill just go behind the tire.

thats stuff is EASY to find.. you can find all that at a junker :)

Looking Great! Any updates? I wanna hear some! :439:

Updates are I got the ECM and A/C lines and TORQUE MONSTERS Headers are in!!! Ill have pics up later in the week.

Also relized my gasket kit didnt come with the right water pump gasket (although it has 3 dif ones) and and Oil pan Gasket. Would have had that alon with the timing cover and water pump installed last night but noooo.

Looks like the last weekend in Jan I will be enlisting help from friends to take a ttrip to the JY to pull trans and rear end. What about drive shaft length hmmmm...

Wiring question again.. What am I going to come across in converting to Automatic? Is there any change in the IN Cab wiring?

One way is to swap in a complete column from an automatic Ranger/Explorer. For your 2001, you'll want a column with a "2nd Generation airbag" clockspring, probably 99~2003 Ranger or 99~01 Ex. The other option is to trade over all of the auto bits and pieces into your manual column - kind of a pain because the auto shifter is part of the column lock.

Electrical:

• TCS switch (O/D Cancel), two wires from the switch at the end of the column. Be sure to inspect the wires because they have a tendency to chafe/break/short where they make a 90 degree bend exiting the tubular shifter. I sleeved mine over with heatshrink tubing as a precaution.
  
• Brake/shift interlock solenoid, three wires. I deleted this on mine because I don't like the feature anyway. It's a safety thing, so you make the call.
  
• To keep PATS, you'd need to swap a type B PATS transceiver in place of the current type E (unless you use a column that already has type B like a 99~00 Ranger or 99~01 Explorer 4-door). Then add and wire a PATS module to the tranceiver and the PCM. IIRC, this involves something like 5 or 6 wires.

In the same general area, there are some other things to do while the column and cluster are out.

You'll need to jump out the three switches in the Clutch Pedal Position Switch. Otherwise, the starter won't start, the cruise won't cruise, etc. The Ranger automatics have a special plug to jump them but my local dealer couldn't find it in the Ford Parts System. Either grab the jumper plug at a JY or cut and splice the six wires in pairs. If you need them, I can get the color code pairings when the time comes.

To differentiate between 4, 6 or 8 cylinders, your tach uses a unique combination of ground wires for each cylinder count. The change from 6 to 8 requires a single wire to be moved. Just an easy pin swap at the cluster connectors.

Route the 4R70W trans shift cable through the same hole where your clutch master is now. Easier with the column out of the way.

"O/D OFF" light in cluster, one wire, probably already present in your stock Ranger harness. May require no changes.

That's all I can think of off the top of my head. The actual trans control wiring is in the transmission subharness that goes from the engine harness down to the Transmission Range Sensor and solenoids in the 4R70W. That part is plug and play. :wink:

Very cool, thanks for the update! Everything is coming along nicely!

.

Look at the clutch push rod under the dash and you'll see a switch assembly clamped around it. Inside the assembly, there are 3 individual switches that connect or disconnect 3 pairs of wires, either near the top of clutch pedal travel or near the bottom. Those switches determine when to engage the starter, cancel the speed control, etc., based on clutch pedal position.

Since automatics don't need that switch, a jumper plug is installed in its place at the assembly line. The jumper makes the connections in place of the 3 switches. The conversion to run an automatic will need the factory plug from an automatic Ranger or the wires will need to be connected together by some other means.

white/pink to pink
red/light green to tan/light blue
gray/red to light blue/yellow

OK i know exactly what you are talkin about now. Yea im going to pull the Brake pedal assembly when i strip down the cloum too. Ill just grab everything!

Hey guys I am new to this forum but have been reading lots of the ranger forums. I was given a 94 b3 And I am planning to do a v8 swap I have a complete exploder not wreck only super high miles . I have found a fresh mustang long block and I got the 96 gt 40 explo heads reworked. My questions are as follows. The pcm and another harness on the explo seem to be very different from the b3. I know pulling the computer and installing in the truck will fix that but what of the sqaree plug approx. 1 foot from pcm harness and will the mototr mounts work from the explo. the explorer is a 96

Im not sure but start a new thread.

ECM came in Yesterday! now i gotta wait a bit to send it away. 275 fro reflash is pricey.

I was going to hit up the JY to do major damage on those interior parts I need but its about 42 degrees and rainy soo that kinda hinders that. So now im behind schedule again.