you just need the cable from the explorer, and swap it in.

perfect.

Newest Update. Engine came today and for christmas my GF just bought me new FRPP full gasket set and the Proform 1.6 Roller rockers.. sweeeeet! hopefully pics tmw night! I got the call that it was at the house and I gotta get the camera from the GF.

nice, thats some quality giftn right ther!

im running 5.0 with 35 in tires and 4.10s... I like the ride

hey i got a 750 lb engine stand last night. good one not cheap china. that will be big enough right?? also what size bolts do i need to pick up. Im looking to have it cleaned up and on the stand tonight!!!

good **** man keep it coming

The bolts into the back of the 302 block are 7/16-14 thread. You'll need to measure the stand to choose the bolt length.

Alright! update. engine on stand and already stripped of harness and entire upper intake. Kinda peeved however. Was told the engine was complete. come to find out it It def wasnt. Harness was mangled IAT sensor gone, MAF Gone. Bastards torched it out. even torched the lower motor mounts, so gotta pick up some knew one of those. and an alternator and a a/c condinser. Other that that Motor in GREAT shape no leaks. super clean. Got alot of pics but with my phone and no way to put them on the comp. Will have pics tmw afternoon!

Also. I was told that this was a 99. But the fuel rails seem to have a return line. So im stumped on that also.

A return line says it's 96~98 and probably has the wrong harness and CMP/synchronizer too. Look on the sides of the head castings near the exhaust ports. Do they say GT or GTP?

Ill have to check it out tmw when I get home. I have the receipt and was told it was 99.. so that will def piss me off to no extent if its a 96-98... what all do i need to convert? new fuel rail obviously, Cam pos sensor, crank position sensor.. anything else?

To convert a 96~98 to returnless fuel like your Ranger, you'd need engine harness, rails, injectors, Cam Position Sensor/Synchronizer, PCM. That's what I can think of off the top of my head, there might be more. If the engine is early enough, the EGR system could be different too.

Alright. Looks like i got a 98. becuase I have the external EGR and i know the 96/97 were internal. and that means i have the P heads too so thats a huge relief. So since i need a new harness anyway its all good. Cam sensor is cheap, found new fuel rails cheap off ebay. No reason why is shouldnt be able to reuse the injectors right? they came with the orangish yellowis ones. PCM i needed to get from JY so at least its not the end of the world. only a few extra parts.

Returnless engines run 17# injectors, return fuel are 19#. You will need to run the right ones to match the fuel pressure difference and the PCM calibration.

So you definitely have 2 quick connects at the rails?

Here are the pics! sorry for crappy quality. ill have some more tmw night that are taken for a real camera
front
Attachment 133615
driver side
Attachment 133616
top
Attachment 133617
pass side
Attachment 133618
back
Attachment 133619
mangled harness
Attachment 133620
96-98 Stupid return style fuel rail
Attachment 133621
Attachment 133622
After working for a few hrs and not Payin attention to time
Attachment 133623
The Keep box (for cleaning, painting, organized baggies) Kinda OCD
Attachment 133624

Bob thanks for the info on Fuel injectors. I have been in touch with the company that sold it to me and I basically put it to them. not only did they send less that what was promised but the entire wrong year engine!!! So I am working it out with customer service to get the missing/mangled/wrong parts sent to me. Well see how that goes......

Cool beans... hope they get you fixed up.

By the way, dont be hatin on my fuel rail! lol, just kidding.

Bob, what are the differences in the cam sensors between years?

Ford used a Hall Effect CMP from 96~98 and a Variable Reluctance Sensor CMP from 99~01. For identification purposes, HE sensors have 3 electrical pins, VRS have 2.

Each of the two typs of CMP uses a matching Synchronizer for the same year ranges and each type takes a different alignment tool.

damn you souther folk and your un winter raped motors/cars

lol haha. alright well i plan on continueing to work on the teardown today. hopefully ill be able to break it down to just the longblock and no brackets etc. Forgot my gf camera again but it looks as if my phone takes better pics than i thought.

Thanks for the calrification on the CMP Bob. since im breakin down do you still think I will need the alignment tool or can I just install it at TDC when i reinstall the heads and junk?

Also, anything i should be looking out for such as hiccups, annoyances or special tools (other than pullers etc) that would make life easier. these are such simple engines its rediculous. Once, again Thank you to all who have input and are helpin out.

You need the alignment tool to get it precisely correct. The CMP is not timed to exact TDC but some certain number of degrees after TDC. The tool automatically times the Synchronizer vane at the correct angle to the CMP when the crank is set at TDC compression.

I STRONGLY advise you to get the genuine Ford Synchronizer/CMP even though it may cost double or triple. The 5.0 guys on the Explorer boards have had lots of trouble with the Chinese copies that seem to be available everywhere on eBay and in the auto parts chains.



Genuine Ford CMP alignment tool part numbers:

303-529 – 96~98 4.0L OHV Explorer/Ranger/Aerostar (3-wire HE)
303-638 – 99~00 4.0L OHV Explorer/Ranger (2-wire VRS)

303-529 – 95~97 3.0L OHV Ranger/Aerostar (3-wire HE)
303-589 – 98~04 3.0L OHV Ranger (2-wire VRS)

303-562 – 96~98 5.0L Explorer (3-wire HE)
303-630 – 99~01 5.0L Explorer (2-wire VRS)


OTC part numbers (OTC is the company that manufactures the Ford tools above):

6472 – 96~98 4.0L OHV Explorer/Ranger/Aerostar (3-wire HE)
6483 – 99~00 4.0L OHV Explorer/Ranger (2-wire VRS)

6472 – 95~97 3.0L OHV Ranger/Aerostar (3-wire HE)
6473 – 98~04 3.0L OHV Ranger (2-wire VRS)

6469 – 96~98 5.0L Explorer (3-wire HE)
6470 – 99~01 5.0L Explorer (2-wire VRS)

ok man thanks for the advice.. sucks its gonna cost more tho. But i can use the OTC tool but def use the OEM CMP. figures... oh well thats why I dont have a true deadline. Money flow is key in this build. Is it an electric tool or what?

Aight I found this obviously parts match but just Double Checking
OTC Tools (OTC6470) Ford Cam Sensor Sync Tool - OTC6470

So the Dorman ones from like Rock Auto suck?

From what I've heard, Dorman is the bottom of the barrel. OTC 6470 is the right tool for 1999~2001 5.0.

didnt get too much done tonight. got the headers removed and thats about it. between takin care of the neighbors dogs, dinner with fam, n softball game I couldnt do much. Ill admit its rediculous how anxious i am to get off work and come home to get on it..

Best way to remove fan/clutch? btw its trashed so done care if it gets busted more