OK, as far as I can tell without having the truck and engine here, this looks very straightforward. The 12 pin in the Ex harness matches up to the wires in a round 8-pin connector in the Ranger. I would either get the matching 12-pin connector from the Explorer engine bay or the 8-pin from the Ranger engine harness and splice it in to make the connectors match - it doesn't appear to matter which method is used.

All wires that need to be spliced have matching color codes. Obviously, this simplifies things. When finished, there should be connections of the red/yellow, grey/white, yellow/light blue, black/white and black.

For the yellow/light blue wires, the Explorer has one thick wire and the Ranger has 2 thinner ones to do the same job. All three would need to be spliced together. The rest are simply individual wire-to-wire splices.

According to the wiring diagrams, there may be 2 extra wires in the Ex harness that are unneeded. These are dark green/white and white/pink and they are for sensor inputs to the Message Center that the Ranger doesn't have. If the 12 pin has them, they can be cut off and insulated.

I think it goes without saying but the wires in these connectors live in a harsh environment that includes engine heat, vibration and road spray. Any spliced connections need to be of the highest quality. I prefer to use a soldered joint coated with dielectric grease and insulated with heatshrink tube and then protected by taped plastic convolute.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Next issue: was the 3.0 engine Flex Fuel capable?

 

Ready to see pics.

 

Yes it was a FF engine.

I plan on using the ranger connection but i was unsure of the wires to splice so once again. THAAAANK YOU haha.

Engine is in, now its small stuff. Only broke a couple things too.

Pics will be coming soon!

 

Damn that was quick!

 

The 99~01 Ex and the 98 and newer Rangers use the same fuel pressure spec (~65 PSI). The exception is the 98~00 FFV Rangers like yours that run ~55 PSI pressure. You may have issues if you try to use the FFV fuel pump/regulator with the 5.0 Ex engine / PCM.

 

Soon haha
I have to have it ready to drive by thursday

I thought I had to change the pump/regulator anyway so that I already planned on swapping.

Two more questions... There is a line in front of the intake that goes straight up in the air. I cant remember where it goes for the life of me. It looks like its a vacuum line end but im unsure.

And Rwenzing, is there any repinning needed for the engine harness? or was it just the 8 pin connection and the repinning for the tach?

 

I ran the stock Ranger pump/regulator without issues until the supercharger went on. But my 2003 truck specs out at the same fuel pressure as the Ex.

That sounds like the line for the EVAP Canister Purge Valve on the driver side inner fender to the rear of the battery. You may have to transplant the Explorer hose over. It has a 90 degree quick connect where it meets that vertical tube.

I looked at that and, as far as I can tell, it seems to be good overall. The only thing I saw was the input from the FFV Fuel Composion Sensor to the PCM. On the FFV version, this uses pin 20 of the 42-pin connector. On some manual trucks, pin 20 carries the Clutch Pedal Position switch input to the PCM instead. I suspect that this pin is not used at all for the 5.0/4R70W application but that is not 100% clear in the Wiring Manual.

Long, boring story short: I would check to see if the 5.0 side of the 42 pin has anything in pin 20 or if it is empty.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

While we're on the subject of the 42-pin....

The exact location of this connector varies by engine size, year and vehicle line. Because of this, some V8 swap combinations match up well enough and others are too short. Mine was short. To get it running, I rerouted both harnesses until they would just barely connect at the 42-pin. This was OK temporarily but I later extended the engine harness 10" to make it fit like it should.

I don't know if this is an issue with the 3.0 harness to the 5.0 in 2000. Just an FYI.

 

Okay, cool.

Im going to attempt to use my fuel pump but im doubting it will work.

Sweet ill look at that today.

It actually worked out quite nicely, not a ton of room but enough for sure.

 

She lives!

Fired up the first time which was unexpected. I just need to fix up the downpipes we torched and buy a couple more quarts of ATF and ill be good to go.

 

Pics and videos now!

 

No videos until its drivable but ill put pics up in a few minutes.

 

3.0 out


Mountaineer being towed home.



5.0 Out


5.0 In.

Just need to bolt on exhaust and im done.

 

Sooooo trouble, runs alright in park and neutral but misfires in gear. It will misfire in P or N if i press on the gas.

I have codes:
PO135
PO155
P1401

 

Figured out the misfire, I think I have 2 O2 sensor codes and one transfer case code.

 

lol, /thread.

that went fast, good job. can't help you with those codes though

 

how much for that Y pipe assembley off the 3.0?

 

Looks good!

 

P0135- 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P0155-02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

P1401-Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic Sensor circuit High Voltage

i honestly dont think the O2 sensors would cause a misfire...maybe the motor needs tuned up i didnt take notice if i read that you did that or not

 

50 bucks sound good?
Had to go fast haha i have to take it on a 6hr drive monday haha

Thanks buddy

I fixed the misfire...kind of. 2 plug wires were mixed up. It ran amazing but hot. I drove it today and when i turned the heat on it went back to the right temp but the misfire started happening again while i was driving it hot...What would cause this?

New plugs and wires are coming tomorrow so maybe that will fix it.

Oh and also I dont have cluster lights after the swap. Like the lights that let you drive at night. I had to drive home using a flashlight to see the gauges haha.

Overall, the truck is a beast now. I ran it for 20 miles with the front driveshaft and about 60 without it. Its pretty damn amazing. Spins 33's easily.

 

Maybe need to bleed air out of the cooling system to fix the overheating. That's a common problem after a coolant refill.

The misfire may be made worse by overheating but it indicates a weakness somewhere. Most likely, ignition problems or lean mixture.


Check fuse 11 in the underhood box. This one can sometimes get popped while working inside the dash with the battery connected. Also make sure that the dimming wheel isn't rolled to off.


If it is fuse 11, there is a bigger problem - no rear running lights.

 

You are correct once again, pulled the codes and its running lean and a misfire in cylinder 5. I rechecked all of the cyl 5 wiring and ta da no misfire but still running lean.

Fuse 11 is the problem...but it blows anytime i turn them on. Im sure i have a short somewhere.

Other than that Ive fallen in love with the truck all over again haha

 

Well the truck has made it 500 miles, still have some misfire issues which is bugging me but it runs. Im currently about 3 hrs away from home doing field work and have had to ford a river multiple times with the truck.

 

does it have moar iowa, is it worth it?

 

Seeing as it has only cost me 800 bucks definitely. but i would do it again for 2 grand in a heartbeat.

When its running good it RUNS, but even with running on 7 cylinders it runs alright.

 

what are you doing with you old cats i need one BAD not much cash???????