I was just wondering if it would really help putting a x pipe or h pipe in my exhaust? ive read that the x pipe will help produce more top end power and some sound to exhaust, it said the h pipe gives some low end torque and adds some base to exhaust, old muscle car sound? anyone do this or no

 

The way tuned exhaust works is by scavenging power that is normally lost.
Headers or factory exhaust manifolds have a specific diameter pipe with a specific length and those pipes go into one larger specific size Collector pipe.
This creates a Velocity, as the exhaust valve opens, in the smaller pipe, when this velocity of moving "air" gets to the larger pipe(collector) it creates a pressure drop in the larger pipe and the "other" smaller pipes on that bank of the engine.
So when the next exhaust valve opens, the lower pressure "pulls" some of the exhaust out so Piston does not have to "push" it all out, so extra power remains in the Crank, scavenged power.
The size and length of the exhaust manifold pipes are tuned for a specific RPM range, low, mid or high, that is when the lowest pressure will occur at the exhaust valves, so the least loss of power for the crank and the most power for the back wheels.

Not as simple as it sounds, lol

"H" or "X" pipes take that one step farther
When you have a Dual Exhaust each exhaust pipe will have opposing exhaust Pulses of "air" from firing order of the engine.
So if you connect the two pipes, the theory is that each gap between the pulses will create a slightly lower pressure in the other pipe, so a bit more scavenging of power.
Outside of looks, which the "X" wins hands down, lol, I think the "H" pipe would be all that's needed.
In personal testing, from years ago, I never did find a benefit for it in daily driving, I can see how it would be of value in Racing when you have limited displacement and have to squeeze every 1/4 horse power out, lol.


The MYTH of back pressure comes from people not understanding how scavenging exhaust manifolds work
pretty much every major engine maker used scavenging exhaust since the 1940's.
People would pull off the stock exhaust manifold, put on LARGE pipes for "free flowing" system, lol.
Then go for a test drive.............."WTF!!!!!!!, I LOST POWER!!!!!, this engine must need BACK PRESSURE!"

The result was correct, they got rid of the scavenged power by using pipes there were too big so lost velocity, and the scavenged power it provided.
But their conclusion was wrong, absolutely NO 4 STROKE ENGINE runs better with any back pressure, even partial blocked exhaust kills power instantly
2 stroke engines DO need back pressure

 

Lol, that was a heck of an answer...funny thing, I think the 5.0 likes the new mufflers better than the wide open glass packs. so I went to parts store today and asked to see a fuel pump for a 97 ranger with a 3.0. he showed me a pump, just the pump, not the entire unit. and it said it runs at 80 to 100 psi? I said maybe the system sets the lower pressure. I told him about the fpr and having 64 psi, he said he felt I got a bad unit? I found receipt, took it back and got a new one....same result, 64 psi although the gauge took awhile to get there but it did. I took vacuum hose off, pressure stayed at 64? since I have the tester I will try to do ur test. I'm wondering if I can take the pump off the 5.0 fuel pump I have and put it on the one in ranger tank?

 

I have read a lot of threads where guys say the only bad thing with explorer 5.0 is the restrictive exh manifolds, not to mention they r just odd looking. ive thought about getting shorty headers in time and making more or less a new exhaust on the truck...02s and cats included..

 

Some people like the sound the X-pipe gives but I don't care for it on a street car. I like the sound the H-pipe gives. I like the old school muscle car sound. Dual exhaust with an X or H-pipe eliminates that rapping sound that comes with dual exhaust without them. Although, some people like that rapping sound when decelerating but it is rather loud and can be annoying. If you have quite mufflers, it doesn't make any difference which type of dua; exhaust you have.
My 69 Fairlane Cobra came for the factory with the H-pipe as I think all 428CJ engines did. If Ford did it, there must be a good reason for it.

 

Some people like the sound the X-pipe gives but I don't care for it on a street car. I like the sound the H-pipe gives. I like the old school muscle car sound. Dual exhaust with an X or H-pipe eliminates that rapping sound that comes with dual exhaust without them. Although, some people like that rapping sound when decelerating but it is rather loud and can be annoying. If you have quite mufflers, it doesn't make any difference which type of dual exhaust you have.
My 69 Fairlane Cobra came for the factory with the H-pipe as I think all 428CJ engines did. If Ford did it, there must be a good reason for it.

 

Sorry for the double post. Edit does not work any more and I tried something to edit and got a double post.

 

I may hav solved my fuel press issue...I had my fuel return going to a duel inlet fuel filter, a mech here says he feels that doubles the press at rail because the pump sends fuel at high press plus the return fuel is also adding to this so reg can't keep it low enough..but the stupid gauge won't work so not sure yet..lol

 

i would get the whole fuel pump assembly for a 96-97 explorer 5.0l instead of the ranger one

 

Ok but the problem is is that the explorer pump assembly still put out the fuel at a high rate like the ranger pump does, or so ive been told, the regulator sets the pressure at the rail...my problem was I dumped the return fuel into fuel filter which raised pressure even higher. I put return back to filler neck and fixed the issue.

 

Also, the only thing needed to do with dash when doing the swap is moving black/yellow wire from I believe 10 pin plug to the biggest plug on dash...putting the wire to #16 spot on that plug which is empty, I did this back in January and tach worked pretty good. the new cluster tach is responding, it is at the higher number...truck at 900 rpm idle, tach reads 1500rpm. that's what the tach did b4 I moved the wire. my bet is tach is bad?

 

the 96-97 should have a fpr on the fuel rail i believe

 

im thinking the fpr in tank from the ranger is fighting with fpr on the fuel rail heres a fix from another person who did a similar swap


installed a '96 Expo 5.0 into my '02 Ranger -- very simple wiring (though working out the a/c was a bit tricky)

For the fuel system, I pulled the in-tank FPR, replaced the later 3 nipple Ranger fuel filter with the earlier 2 nipple Explorer fuel filter and then used the fuel return from the filter to the (now removed) FPR of the Ranger along with a bit of fresh piping to run the complete return from the 5.0. Very easy, neat and simple to do.

The one place that was not intuitive, on the Ranger filter, the rear/center hose is the return to the FPR and is the correct size for the Expo filter but is not plug and play. I had to swap the two fuel lines before the filter, since the lines are nylon and the same size (despite the differences in plugs at the filter) a pair of push on nylon fuel line couplings made quick work of the needed swap.

I'd swiped the original return line from the Expo doner, grafted on a generic nipple for the return line. Just took a bit of tweaking to get the Expo metal return line to follow the Ranger supply line.

 

I have the fuel pressure issue fixed. She runs good. So what did u do for exhaust? I'm kind of rebuilding my exhaust, had glass packs on it but took them off in favor of flow master 44s, the Mustang muffler, I'm still waiting for the Mustang to show up..lol. I took the cats off because I thought they might be going bad. Put straight pipes on it. I picked up a set of shorty headers to see if they will fit? If not I know I can sale them and get $ back. Theres a guy on utube...Mustang ranger he calls the video, he has shorty headers on his truck and it's newer than 2000 so he has same frame and engine bay. Can't hurt to try right...what all did u use from the explorer on ur ranger

 

i havent gotten mine done yet...i have a couple to do my 98 is first on the list still gathering parts for it im using a 2000 expl for the swap but i have to find a trans..as far as headers from what i have been reading the only real solution is torque monster headers...some company named obx offers knock offs of them from what i understand and if you have to use stock manifolds i have read the cast ones flow better than the tube ones..im planning on using cast ones unless i can find the tm headers which seem to be about like finding a unicorn.

 

my main plan is to get it all put together with no mods to the motor and once i have everything in place and working correctly to then either build another 302 for it or buy a crate motor... are you satisfied overall with your conversion to the 5.0 over the previous engine?

 

Oh u betcha, my 98 is ext 4x4 with 3 in body and 4 in suspect lift, 33x22.50 all terrain tires. It had a 3.0 auto to move it..dependable but slow as heck. The 5.0 is stock except dual exhaust and cai. I used entire drive train including awd transfer from 97 mountaineer. I even had a/c til compressor went. I was told tm headers the only fit but I'm gonna try a set of shorty anyway. I'm betting the steering shafts will be a major hassle...I will find out next week. She sounds good with flowmaster 44s and straight pipes but I'd love to c a set of headers

 

lol my 98 is a 2wd coil spring front 4.0v6 with now blown headgasket and 326k miles. I knew this day was coming so about a year ago I bought a 2000 exp 5.0 awd missing the trans for $300.So I figure ill find 4R70W to put in the ranger and get it all up and running and run the 5.0l until it dies of catastrophic failure then build or buy a decent 5.0l to go back in it...its life has been as my work truck and it will continue to be so but who says a work truck cant get a little extra zip :) besides it would cost me about as much if not more to build a 4.0l vs a 302

 

Yep, my 98 isn't an every day driver. But it's my toy, and I'm starting to think if I mod my steering somehow the shorty headers will fit. On utube a guy has a newer ranger with a mustang 5.0. It's called mustang ranger...he has a solid axle swap with steering box on left outside frame rail and he has shorty headers. Truck is kickass

 

im wondering if it may be cheaper and less aggravating to find someone to custom build a set of longtubes....this one isnt my toy I have a 97 i bought for my dad, who passed away now, so ill never get rid of it its a 4cy auto its getting the 5.0 conversion aswell. then a 2000 reg cab shortbed 2wd that I want to do as a 5spd 5.0 but all of this requires money and at least one more 99-01 donor..I already have a rusty 97 exp5.0 i picked up to do the 97 ranger swap but i need a 2wd trans for it too as its a awd

 

Hmmm, not sure how expensive that could be. When mine arrive I plan to do some measuring although that's not full proof. The steering shafts looks to be biggest issue. When I got it aligned they showed me I hav a lot of play in steering, u can turn the wheel a good couple inches each way and tires don't turn. I was told to get a aftermarket knuckle for bottom of shaft. I'm curious if I can get something that will actually put shaft maybe a inch higher on box, if u get me, that might get steering shaft out of the way. Then it's a matter of if they don't hit frame rails, but i will see.

 

If u google torque monster headers there r a **** load of used ones for sale, most r sold, one guy mentioned he still had to put dent in one pipe to clear steering shaft..lol. sometimes even parts made to fit don't fit.

 

I'm try to replace my intermediate shaft on steering shaft

 

I was told its going bad due to body lift, I have a lot of play in steering wheel. I called summit but guy said he needs to know what size the shaft is coming out of box. so I'm hoping if I can get a dual joint shaft it might change angle of steering shaft and maybe it wont be in the way..lol. its right in front of 3rd cyl on that side. header pipe will definetly hit it. I had the crasy idea that if the pipe is sticking out far enough the shaft might go right between the two pipes. not a smart idea I know.

 

look up the 4.6 installs in rangers most of them have moved the steering shaft ...some of them in ingenius ways